Nice to get into 13's, isn't it? Seems with your M/T Stickys, your 60' times should be better. Practice launch........ Bet you love that nice convertor too! :Brow: You are on your way!:TU:
Thanks guys, Im pretty stoked! To go from a 14.54 to a 13.83 then to a 13.74 surprised the crap outta me! I now believe the TCI convertor was holding the engine back. I find this all very interesting how all this "stuff" has to work together. Definatley changes my thought process on things when planning upgrades or improvements. My 60' being in the 1.9s really surprised me also compared to 2.1 2.2's My better e.t. and 60' I attribute to the JW convertor I am going to experiment to try to get my 60' down NOW that I have the tires and convertor to work with:TU: Also want to get my MPH up, fueling I believe is the answer there, going to try slightly richer rods on the secondary side. Damn, these 350's RUN:laugh:
Theres a app for your phone called Race IQ. lots of good stuff in it. You can log all your runs off the time slips then later compare data. It has a function to display and record DA and other air related info which can make a huge impact on your times. You can also predict what your next run will be by using the last 3-7 recorded runs and the current DA. The Regal will run 7.40" (1/8 mile) in really good air with the DA around 500ft and as slow as 8.00 @ 2000'. Good info for the bracket racing.
I have a different way of looking at it. This is a perfect example of what happens when you overcam an engine. A smaller cam probably would have run faster than what you did with the TCI converter. That is why you picked up such a huge gain. Now that the cam has been matched by the converter the cam can start to show you its' stuff. I agree it would be nice to see some more MPH. I do what you do and have my car shift from 1-2 auto and then manual shift 2-3. It is time to up the shift point closer to 6000 rpm where the cam belongs. If you have a 1" open spacer I'd try that now that you the car is launching hard. Then when you install the TA single plane intake you can see what it really worth. If you wait until after the SP intake is on to up the shift point the intake change gain will probably seem greater than it really is. Friday is looking hot so it looks like record low ET's will be hard to come by.
Good point Mike on the over cam issue, being I've never run the car at the track until recently, the 413 cam "seemed" happy with the TCI convertor, but once I got the car on the track, the short commings REALLY show up! Im glad I started doing this! Last night I pulled the governor out, and replaced the 13.1 gram weight with a 6.5 gram weight to up my auto shift rpm a few hundred rpm, haven't taken it for a ride yet, so I'll see where its at hopefully after work today. I thought about Fridays temps too, near 90
Congrats Mark, it's great to hear of your improvement with my 9.5" converter. I would tend to agree with Mike, you seeing almost a second in improvement is a sign that the combo is getting closer to optimum. The proper torque converter is a wonderful thing in drag racing. Have fun! JW
I'd definitely take the car out for a ride and try that new shift point before you hit the track. I weigh my weights and just a gram or two will make a couple hundred rpm difference. That was a big jump you made. Now if it was only one weight maybe then it won't be so radical. Of course every setup is slightly different. The way my car is you have to lift the trans and move the crossmember. A real pain in the drain to change the shift point on the T350.
Yeah, I only did one weight. I've been in the gov. before, and had it set to shift wot at 52/5300, I just want to up it a few hundred rpm. I feel the trans shifting "process" is quicker auto shifting instead of moving the shifter from 1 to 2, then by the time the trans "see's" the command to shift, another few hundred rpm is accumulated before the actual shift takes place. Yeah I hear yah on the pain it is to do this on a 350 car, Oh the old cars are soooo easy to work on, yeah right! LOL
Just got back from Norwalk a bit ago, had a great time, made a lot of passes, trying different techniques. Best pass of the warm and muggy day was a 13.65 @ 98.4 mph 60' was a 1.98 Damn, need another 2 mph
Im off to Norwalk this morning, Summit Racing is having a car show with "fun runs" down the 1/4 Weather is going to be mid 60's, so I'll see what cooler weather will do. I want to get my launch technique consistent, practice practice practice
That's exactly it. I think you can easily shave some time off your 60 foot. I hear that a tenth in the 60 foot is like 2-4 tenths in the quarter. My car when I ran 14.1 had like a 1.95 60 foot and that was with stock suspension and footbraking it. So you have a bunch of time left there.
What did your 1-2 shift point settle in to after you changed the governor around? Cool air, where was that last week?
It shifts at 6000/6100 The engine pulls hard all the way there, never misses a beat. I would like it at 5800, but I don't know if I'd be shooting myself in the foot tho power wise. IIRC, the 413 cam signs off at 5500. I thought the cooler air would help too, but it didn't seem to matter in my MPH Starting line traction was horrible, but the MPH was about the same as BPG, actually BPG I was around 97/98 MPH, so I was down a bit today in the cooler air todayo No: Odd! Correct me in my thinking if Im off base here, but it seems I've hit the wall with the Stage 1 intake power wise with my combo, OR the 413 cam needs the SP3, I seem to have the grunt down low (dual plane) but the dual plane starts choking the engine in the upper revs.
Welllllllll, track prep for the "fun runs" was HORRIBLE First pass, do a short burn out, stage, up to 1500 on the convertor, tree comes down, let 'er rip, MT's spinning, squealing, going sideways, WTH!!! 14.25 @ 95.31 60' 2.216 Hot lapped 14.48 @ 94.37 60' 2.29 MT's spun on every run, and it wasn't a little squeal, it was nasty, sideways for a good 10', I just kept my foot in it. Best pass 14.08 @ 95.27 60' 2.042 Car hooked ok on that pass, not great but better than spinning. 60 foots were all in the 2's worst was a 2.312 Got 8 passes in, it was CROWDED! A lot of fun tho, track crew admitted lousy prep, I talked to one fellow, he said most cars were street tired and they didn't do much at the starting line, but wth, everything was FREE!! Except for food, and wifes 60.00 Summit jacket:eek2:
Mark, I've been thinking about this for a couple days. Not sure how many passes you have on that combo but you have not reached the best tune yet. While that cam may rev to 6000 but I can promise if you saw a dyno readout your peak power is around 5200-5400. Shifting at that point will drop the RPM into the meat of the torque curve and it will pull harder. Also you did not mention any carb jetting changes. I think you are leaving some power on the table here. An out of the box carb from anyone will not be optimum. While it's well known the 350 likes about 36 degrees total timing jetting can make huge changes. Your initial timing should also be in the 16-18 range. You may need to modify your dist. to limit the mechanical advance. Never use the vacuum advance. You need to invest in an air/fuel meter. I use the FAST dual sensor model. This will let you dial in the carb, testing on the street before you waste the few runs you get at track day. Tune for MAX MPH in your runs and then focus on your starting technique for lower ET. I didn't get an all iron engine to run 13.7 in 20 runs, It took hundreds. Edit OK I reread and saw you may have tryed CE secondary rods. This is where the A/F meter helps. Eliminates the guess work of is it rich or lean.
Great advice Steve, that's the A/F meter I have as well. After I bought it and started using it taking the guess work out of the air fuel ratios is great!! I will never go back to trying to read plugs!! One time trying to read the plugs I was chasing my butt because I had fuel in the tank with ethanol in it which cleans what you would read off of them when it burns! If you're trying to read plugs make sure you're using 100% gasoline ethanol free fuel, that helps a little.(young eyes help as well, another reason I bought the meter! LOL) I need the data logger for it now!! And remember if you're using 10% ethanol gas adjust your fuel ratios accordingly. If you're looking to buy one, I got mine brand new from eBay just under $400 shipped but they may even be less expensive from Amazon? Your local muffler shop should be able to weld in some bungs for you, should be around $50 to have that done including the bungs. GL Derek
