<<<<< Finish Line builds me a 756 hp power plant >>>>>

Discussion in 'Race 400/430/455' started by Robsbuick, Jul 17, 2012.

  1. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    I hate pulling the motor at the track. :( Been there, done that, don't want to do it again. Sorry that the first shot didn't work out.
  2. Robsbuick

    Robsbuick Precision Billet Inc.

    Yea it sucks, but "s**t happens". The good thing is that Bobb will work with me and get it back ASAP.
  3. 69GS400s

    69GS400s ...my own amusement ride!

    Jim - Larry is a firm believer of the System1 filter as well but I cant remember who ... but someone well up on the "builder" scale told me a few years ago that its actually too fine of a system and causes restriction increasing pressure/decreasing volume. Have you ever heard anything like this ?
  4. Robsbuick

    Robsbuick Precision Billet Inc.

    Haven't heard anything from Bobb yet.
    Friday morning I took a trip to Jegs to get a System 1 filter, that's how I saw all the bearing material right away and was able to stop before making another pass and really doing more damage.
  5. 69GS400s

    69GS400s ...my own amusement ride!

    I've always respected your technical advice and appreciate your reply
  6. john hixon

    john hixon Well-Known Member

    For what it's worth, I stopped running a System One and switched to Wix years ago. For me, oil pressure has been more consistent, and I'm OK with cutting open filters to inspect and buying them by the case. Do your own homework.

    BTW Jim -- Still running the Lamb Brakes, QA1 and Global West Set up... It has all held up to punishment quite well. One of the best deals I ever got. :TU:



  7. ronbz455

    ronbz455 Big Butz Racing

    What weight oil was you using and high or low volume. I know it might sound stupid but I use 5 w 30 Mobil 1 and leave the line at 100 LBS of pressure. I always thought would this combo work with high power Buicks? I use stock pump with Kenne Bell Booster plate that I have to drill through the pocket to redirect flow through the pump pocket. When I build this high power Buick engine Fred wants me to put a high volume pump gear set in it. I would like to try it with the stock gear set with the kenne bell oil booster plate kit that you drill the hole in the cover to change the flow of the oil through the housing. If you can keep that pressure through the rpm range and not starve the pan you should be ok. I see alot of fast Buicks out there having oil problems and I have none using this system. Don't get mad at me but just explain the systems you use . Thanks Ron.
  8. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    I've been running my System 1 filter on my 70 GS for 11 years now. One of the reasons I bought it was because it has less resistance to flow than any paper filter. At least that was the claim. I've always had consistent oil pressure.
  9. john hixon

    john hixon Well-Known Member

    Well Jim -- to each his own. I don't deny the System 1 is a good filter. But that's all it is to me. The Wix is great filter and with all due respect I really don't see where the System 1 beats it. One of my problems with the System 1 was that I was religious about checking it and it simply allowed too much crap through the motor when I had a roller lifter go away over time. Upon inspection it was obvious that I had some piston scoring and other wear that happened over time. The long and the short of it is that I'm happy with the Wix. It flows good and has a tighter micron rating then the System One. Who knows - maybe you are more "correct" than me -- I'm only putting this out there because I do think there a good alternatives besides the System 1. On the other side of the coin FRAMs are junk! :)

    Glad you look to be doing well. Hopefully I'll be able to afford to build a BBB someday soon..

    Later -

  10. john hixon

    john hixon Well-Known Member

    Yes Sir. Completely agree on that. In fact - regardless of powerplant - the BBB board is one of the best out there for quality feedback and objective reviews.
  11. Robsbuick

    Robsbuick Precision Billet Inc.

    It looks like the block is not broken. What we think happened is when I bolted the motor mounts to the block, apperantly the corner of the left mount was catching a part of the casting and not sitting flat and after tightening it down it actually bent the mount and placed a large amount of stress on the block and wiping out the bearings. Another clue that the block was "tweaked" was the freeze plug behind the mount had started to leak. I will be reworking the mounts and adding front motor plates.
    The motor will be ready next weekend and should good to go for Cecil.
  12. ss4825

    ss4825 Well-Known Member

    Rob, That is great news. Are you going to bring that monster to BG?
  13. Robsbuick

    Robsbuick Precision Billet Inc.

    No BG this year.
  14. Skyhawk

    Skyhawk Well-Known Member

    Good news Rob. Don't forget to change those front coilover springs!
  15. Robsbuick

    Robsbuick Precision Billet Inc.

    on my list of "things to do"
  16. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Rob, I'm glad you figured out the root cause of the problem, and the numbers from your build are outstanding!

    What troubles me is that with over 700 hp you were still using the original mounting points on the block.

    For a street car with poor traction that may be fine, but frankly I'm surprised that you weren't advised against it to begin with. With traction, a 600 hp motor on the original mounting points is going to bend the block a lot. At your power level, front and rear plates should have been suggested from the beginning, deleting the other mounts altogether.

    I think you should not have had to deal with this the hard way.

  17. Skyhawk

    Skyhawk Well-Known Member

    Even with front & rear plates you still need the stock mounts in place for some block support. Doug Hecker proved that many years ago.
  18. Steve Reynolds

    Steve Reynolds SRE Inc

    John, just curious as to why you think the block needs front & rear plates AND motor mounts for support? ANY flex in the cross member, (and there always is some to a point), will not help the block become stable. I have a 1/4" FULL (not "ears") front motor plate and a 1/8" steel mid plate and I use an adjustable diagonal shaft to stabilize the engine front to back. With a girdle and Block Fill I feel that this is more than sufficient for support.
    Give me some input as I know you are full of good information!


  19. Robsbuick

    Robsbuick Precision Billet Inc.

    Guys, the big issue is every fricken block is different. What may work with one set up may not work the same with a different block in a different car.

    ---------- Post added at 07:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:27 AM ----------

    I always had a mid-plate, but the previous engines had much less power and never thought it would be an issue. I am not going to say things are 100% until I make a few full passes.
  20. ss4825

    ss4825 Well-Known Member

    Steve, John, Rob, While I realize that all of our setups are different mine is a tube chassis car and weighs in at 2450 lbs with driver. My engine is right at 735 hp I have the same full 1/4 front plate as Steve and a 1/4 mid plate but no diagonal stabilizer. I wonder if this will be a problem. Opinions please.

    Thanks, Alan

Share This Page