This is the one I used before my Gear Vendors. https://metcomotorsports.com/mdl1100 You had to drill some holes in the floor boards, but it fit right up against that body cross member.
But boy I can tell you personally how fun the ride is when one breaks just b4 the finish line.......I now have a rear loop as well
Anyone used this product in the front? Otherwise I'm looking into making my own. Sch 40 pipe or rolling flatbar. https://www.ramairrestoration.com/c...drill-driveshaft-loop-turbo-400-vehicles.html
Will work fine and easy,...I've dropped at shaft at 125mph in one of my GS's during a street race,...was an adventure for sure,...no loop,..the X pipe kept off the pavement but destroyed everything,..trans,.. pristine floor,..fuel line,..brake line,...all kinds of fun stuff
I'd stay away from the flat stock loops that bolt between the mount and crossmember, they make a pretty significant angle change to the driveline and could cause some other unintended consequences. I personally use the Caruso units, but as mentioned before they may or may not be available. The next best thing is having to drill holes in the floor cross member with the unit that Larry showed. Might actually be the BEST thing, as its a lot stronger than the Caruso unit.
So if I didn't want to drill the floor pan, you all are saying there is nothing good in the current market? Wow what a shame
Weld the metco to the floor brace,...easy to cut off and grind smooth if you choose to remove it,... Or heres my suggestion if it were car Ditch the factory crossmember all together,...use a chevelle crossmember,...weld a nice loop off it,..it's tubular in shape so easy to modify with a loop,...and it mounts with just bolts no isolation mounts
2nd option,....and the best if you're truly concerned about,...have a new shaft built,......095 aluminum 4in dia 1350 front yoke,..1350 rear if it has a 12bolt .088 or even.095 wall steel in 3.5in dia 1350 joints,.....you won't even come close to breaking either one
How does it make a change to the driveline? If the flatbar is bolted on the bottom side of the crossmember, and the circular portion does not touch the driveshaft, there is no foul play? Of course my crossmember and transmission and driveshaft are all off my car right now so I can't look to where this flat bar would bolt.
One thing I did not see here just make sure you have a one piece driveshaft if you are going with the original shaft as some are made as a 2 piece shaft's . Bruno.
First Guess: A synecdoche with a twist. He's using the company name for the product name; and mis-spelled the company name. ALEMITE is a company that makes heaps of lubrication equipment for professional and consumer use. One of the many products they make are GREASE ZERKS. In fact, Alemite claims to have invented them. https://www.amazon.com/Alemite-2365-1-Assortment-Contains-Fittings/dp/B009K4ZEPS/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2JZBMYY4JHPEH The GREASE ZERK of the U-joint must be installed on the part of the joint under compression when driving forward. Compression and tension are reversed when driving backwards. The entirely-better solution is to only buy U-joints that are "non-greaseable" "sealed" or "solid" (not hollow). Not only are those U-joints stronger than the ones drilled for a grease zerk, but you don't have to feel guilty when doing an oil change yet feeling too lazy/apathetic to slide under the vehicle with the grease-gun and probably a grease-needle to pump a few grams of grease into the U-joints. With proper seals, they're "lubed for life" during installation. [Later Edit] ...And for those of you who do have grease zerks that need occasional attention, and are as frustrated as I was with the CRAPPY COUPLERS included with the grease-gun, I offer this: A truly-useful coupler that actually seals to the zerk, (provided there's room around the zerk for the coupler, which is generally NOT the case for zerks on U-joints) doesn't pop off, or spew grease in use. In other words, it ACTUALLY works the way the common, crappy ones SHOULD work, but don't. https://www.amazon.com/LockNLube-fittings-best-selling-Long-lasting-rebuildable/dp/B00H7LPKKU/ref=sxin_16_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.14a246c3-7a62-40bf-bdd0-5ac67c2a1913:amzn1.sym.14a246c3-7a62-40bf-bdd0-5ac67c2a1913&cv_ct_cx=locknlube I got one about a year ago, and I'll never use a grease-gun without one. Totally wonderful. [/Later Edit]
This is the UMI. Goes right on the brace. Welded or bolted. I am not endorsing them just showing an option.
Yea in order to bolt to the brace you have to bolt thru the floor pan...unless the floor brace is removable?
Nah you fish the bolts thru with wire,...mark,..drill,..pull thru the bolts thru a larger hole that's in the brace
It changes the angle of the transmission tailshaft by essentially "shimming" between the mount and crossmember.
