The front of your drive shaft is driven by the transmission output shaft yolk. As it turns the u joint, it needs to compress the zirk, not pull. Same theory at the rear. You just determine which way things are turning when going foreward and push the against the zirk. Never PULL on a zirk (grease fitting). It it will pull apart.
Brett, it mounts between the tranni mount, the mount on the tail shaft housing of the turbo 400. Thats why i had to use the shorter Energy Suspension gm mount. The 3/16 plate plus the shorter mount, keep the tranni at the same height as the stock mount. Same principles would work on a turbo 350 or a Muncie
Most times that I have seen a dropped driveshaft at the track, it ends up cracking the transmission case. Just wondering if a loop bolted to the mount like that would do the same as opposed to one mounted to the body floor pan.
That damage comes from stress going through the trans, the loop if the cause, will do that no matter where its mounted i think
At the end of the day, the loop is a safety device. If ever needed, any fallout from shaft damage or tail shaft etc is minor compared to other possibilities if this event were to occur without the loop. Anyone needing a ds safety loop should already have upgraded u joints…..ie solid non greasable, and a proper performance driveshaft. For street driven cars, like mine, auto, with 3.5 aluminum ds, 1350 solid u joints…..the ds loop is a safety item that will likely never be required, but glad it’s there.
I think that means the yoke has to be on the bearing before the fitting when turning clockwise looking forward. The drive shaft would be on the bearing after the fitting. The yoke would be at bearings 2 and 4 and the driveshaft would be on bearings 1 and 3. The zerk would be compressed between bearings 2 and 3 in the diagram.
Well the Energy Suspension mount cost me $70 cdn, the steel was leftovers in the shop. So not sure what total costs would be. Ill post dimensions of components on the weekend.
I can’t see running a weak stock driveshaft with a performance engine. I do run a loop on anything raced. Heck I have two loops on my 4x4 truck.
I would advise to not use a poly mount with rubber mounts,....it can break the bell housing if it sees enough power,...a chain or torque strap/limiter will keep that from happening and improve chassis reaction
Thanks, and that makes sense except I've never seen a greasable u-joint (in our applications anyways) that had a biased fitting. they always feed directly into the body of the joint at the crook, and by that location are under constant opposing forces - one leg is pulling while the other is pushing with equal force. It doesnt sound like with the joint that I showed (or one like that) that there is any specific installation orientation that changes that.
