2.5 turns is to many, your initial start point with those carb screws should be 1.5 turns out. And then after its running, use a vacuum gauge to set them where they need to be when the gauge is at the highest vacuum reading you can get moving those screws. The idle can be set to where it needs to be after everything else is set, like points, timing, the front carb screws. You'll probably need to set the idle several times in this process because those other changes will effect idle speed.
Copy, I do remember when I first turned the car on a few weeks ago I thought I had it right until I stepped on the gas to lower the idle and then she shut off on me. I had to mess with the timing again after I got that screw in the right place. Hopefully I get some time tomorrow to mess with it a little more and have my wife crank while I pour some fuel in the carb
Seen a lot of guys get a surprise „pouring fuel into Carb. Myself included. Seen someone drop it on top of air cleaner right at wingnut recess.I've been doing that way ever since.
Pouring gas in the carb is dangerous - be careful. I don't see the need if you are using starting fluid. The starting fluid will fire easier than raw gas. The acc pump is also putting gas in. Plus, as noted above, your plugs are wet. After all this, I wonder if the carb needs rebuilding? If it runs on high idle but dies when the choke kicks out....
Im sure it can use another rebuild I had it done about 8 years ago. It only died when I was tryin to set the timing. Once I got the timing right that time it ran perfect. It only ran perfectly for about 3 days though that’s when it died and I haven’t got it to start since
Would maybe swapping out the filter in the carb a good idea? I didn’t realize there was a filter in there. Or am I not reading this manual correctly? How hard is that to swap
If the carburetor is flooding, you will see fuel leaking on the exterior of the carburetor, coming from the vent up top, or leaking where the carburetor bolts to the manifold. If that is allowed to persist, fuel will get into your oil. Pull the dipstick and smell the oil, if it smells of fuel, you'll need to change it. Unless you aren't getting fuel to the carburetor, the filter should not be a problem. The biggest challenge when changing the fuel filter is getting the fittings off without damaging them. You'll need a 5/8" LINE WRENCH. The filter is behind the big nut where the fuel line enters the carburetor. There is a spring in there as well. You must hold that nut with a wrench and use the line wrench to break the fuel line fitting loose. I don't think this is your problem unless you aren't getting fuel to the carburetor.
Instead of pouring gas down the carb throat . Can the bowl be filled thru the bowl vent to the left of the hold down screw in Larry's picture . The same as a Quadrajet ??
You guys are complicating a one car wedding here. Jimmy just needs to get it started for now! Before more troubleshooting. imo
Agree with Mike. He's getting gas (observed at the acc pump nozzels), he's getting spark (observed at a grounded plug) and he's got air (choke open). So why won't it start? Maybe when Bob gets a look at it we will learn more.
Why do you guys want the choke OPEN? We live in warmth, but my car wont start when its 80* without the choke!
Because if the plugs are already wet with fuel, the "choke on" is the last thing we need now. I'm leaning towards carburetor flooding right now.
You should be able to at least start an engine on accelerator pumps, better yet, starting fluid. It doesn't even seem like it wants to start. At this point, we need another set of eyes on the problem. I'd wait for Saturday.
