My distributor but I will be looking into gettin it swapped to the one Mike had. I just gotta convince the wife . By the way Mike my wife said she was sorry and didn’t mean to be rude for not meeting you. She was just “dressed down” and embarrassed, u already know how that goes. Larry, Mike was mentioning to me what I would have to do if I decided to swap out the dizzy to the HEI one and maybe when that time comes you can guide me?
U mentioned worn out starter? I’ve had this refurbished starter in the car since 2013ish and I guarantee I definitely put a strain on it just this year alone with all the no start I’ve been having, could this maybe cause the issue? I’m gonna swap it out in the next couple of days just because it’s under warranty, so why not?
I always wondered about that. There must be a reason. I think I have read about one in the past, just can't remember where. Edit: Found it. The reason it reads full voltage is that it is not a completed circuit, therefore, no current flow. Points closed completes the circuit to ground. Resistors drop voltage across them depending on the amount of current as much as it depends on the resistance of the resistor. No current means no voltage drop. Really it comes down to ohms law. V = IR , Voltage Drop = Current X Resistance. The Chassis Manual discourages that.
No! Why? You need to measure cranking volts and amps before even considering doing that. I’d suggest upgrading the distributor with some sort of electronic ignition from TA now that you having it running...
Larry, 68-16 is very poorly worded and even incorrect, as so many service manuals are. At least service information now is not in printed format, and mistakes can be edited out. With the old chassis service manuals, we are left with mistakes. For example, how can the shorting switch in the solenoid remain closed? A closed switch providing 12v to the coil after the engine starts would be the least of someone’s concerns. Again, in 68-16 there cannot be 12v at the coil KOEO if the voltage from the ignition switch if the resistance wire is in place. If the point are open, it’s around 9v. If the points are closed, it’s around 5.5v. How does the resistance wire know that the engine is running or not? It doesn’t. Resistance is resistance. Kirchoff’s law is indeed valid. You are confusing what the voltage should be measuring a simple circuit at different points when it’s loaded and performing work vs measuring voltage at certain points when the circuit is not performing work. Many auto tech’s get tripped-up here, and ASE tests are loaded with this type of question. I have measured B+ at the coil with the engine running on old points systems with no issues. Man, I can’t wait for spring to get here, and the virus to run it’s course!
That's all I have to go by Bob, what I read. I don't do this for a living, I concede that. Here's the thing though, you aren't measuring a circuit, all you are measuring is potential. The meter is hooked up between coil + and ground, but the meter draws next to no current. No current, no resistance. I did a bit of research on this, and while I didn't link my sources, they all said the same thing. Maybe if we have an electrical engineer on V8, we could clear it up. Not that any of this matters anymore, Jim's engine runs.
While I am lost for now I do plan on gettin an electrical engineering degree so who knows maybe one day I’ll have something to add
I figured I’ll be off all next week and a good time to mess with the car. I’m sure me cranking the engine over and over again did maybe at least a little bit of damage to the starter. Maybe it’ll run another 3 years maybe it craps out on me in a month. I just thought if I have the time and the starter is covered under the warranty why not swap it at no charge? The distributor on the other hand is going to cost some money which I don’t mind spending it when I have it. But for now I figured I’d just keep myself busy
