I agree do not use the command center. I am sure they will work the bugs out of it in the next 6 months but as of now it is still problem. This is the type of thing I was talking about.... With the rapid improvements of the technology waiting 6 months or a year is a great idea if you ask me.
You guys are making me re-think my plan now! A couple of threads I found about the Command Center, haven't finished reading through all of it yet but it looks like there were some issues: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/89-...uel-command-center-review-install-w-pics.html http://www.chevelles.com/forums/89-efi/882801-fitech-fuel-command-center-update-fitech.html
at summit : demon 650cfm or 850cfm blow through carb = $732.00 . dec '16 hot rod mag has an article on setting up a holley dbl pump carb for blow through operation - fairly simple steps and good explaination and tips . and they test it on a cheapo e-bay turbo system they put together . carb ran well , good power . the cheapo turbo on the other hand needed some TLC to get sorted out . local guy that has bought a couple holleys from me has a mustang with a 410 and stall and gears and in the planning process of putting a twin turbo setup on it . asked me if I could do a blow through carb for it . kinda interesting idea . but his donor 850 is a wreck probably . we'll see .
I will go with a Aeromotive A100+ regulator and would probably go with a 20Gallon fuel cell anyways... i dont mind loosing the trunk.. thats the easiest and safest way ( baffle the tank so fuel dont move to much) the EFI Tanks are to expensive i think and welding in a sump on my stock tank isnt reall the way to go i think.. , please remember the sum just helps the feed up to a certain point and can make the system run lean as well... since the way the gas moves in the tank makes the sump not constantly "full". Further i dont feel comfortable to weld on a fuel fume fully tank ahahaha.
With the Fitech...For only a few hundred dollars more you get precision calibration of fuel. You can choose your fuel curve for all conditions. It starts right up when hot or cold or wet or dry. And it comes with your AFR setup.. With a carb you will still probably need a jet kit, extra gaskets, and some kind of AFR meter at the least. (weather changes all the time too) With a carb when it's cold out you have to warm it up for a while before you can drive away unless you have it running pig rich. By the time you add the gaskets, AFR and jet kit to that price.. Well there you go.
i was looking at several Blow tru carb options.. as you said they basicly go for like 750 -1000$ new.. the only thing is... they require a DYNO Tune to have the system set up right.. which is another 350-550 $ i assume.. the Fuel delivery will have to be adressed anyways.. But carb needs a couple more regulator "checkpoints" to be safe. Further please dont forget that the timing needs to be retarded most likly to run decent boost or Nitrous so a MSD retard box is necessary or ignition box incl retard setup.. i have a 6AL withiout this setup and dont plan on switching. The FiTech has a internal regulator for the fuel so you always run a perfect pressure and you can adjust the timing with the Power Adder FiTechs, so no retard box or Ign Box update needed! The 6AL Box /HEI dizzies are easy to hook up to a fitech system and the TUNE and setting will be easily set by the Handheld. The self learning is active everytime you start it up and learns/updates constantly, even if you use a Boost controler and crank up the boost, the system will adjust needed fuel and timing. this scenario woudl require another Dyno Tune $$ if going with a Carb. Sean is right .. im realy interested in the TBI EFI option and will go that route, lets see what updates are made on the systems comes summer.
Robb MC makes a pickup for the stock tank with 12an fittings that fits perfectly. It's suggested to keep 1/4 tank at least for the strip. Most of our tanks have a baffle that runs from side to side BTW. The fuel filler runs in past the baffle to the front of the tank.. Therefore, if you have gas is the tank, you cannot pour it it out the filler hole.
WORD!! btw building a blow tru yourself sounds like fun.. but by talking to a couple of guys on turbo forums you should know what you doing..thats why blow trus are expensive.. lol i dont wanna screw up my sbb by being cheap on a blow tru... i just took another SBB appart and planing on building a nice Shortblock with forged rods and pistons.. so thats $$
ken from everyday performance did a single turbo Buick 350 using a Q jet and he had a ton of hassle getting it to function... It is possible but the Holley is the most economical and fail safe way to blow through a carb. He just wanted to prove it could be done with a q jet...
Sealed Power/federal mogul has forged grand national turbo Pistons that fit Buick 350 just have to get 8 instead of 6.
Link please... Compression ratio? I know scott brown does forged pistons as well.. Gesendet von meinem D6503 mit Tapatalk
The Speed Pro forged piston is made with high silicon VMS-75 alloy which is 11% silicon. Not as brittle as Hypereutectic but I wouldn't use it for a turbo application beyond 6 lbs of boost. They are Press Pin only and the pins are not included with the piston. It would be best to use 2618 alloy pistons (almost no silicon) that come with pins that have been fit to the piston
thanks alot wow they pretty reasonable.. with nice molnar rods it could be a very nice combo to have a 600+ HP turbo block my heads are ported and have the bigger valves and springs already. what Head Gaskets would you guys use? would you at all bump up the compression?
What's the compression height on the v6 pistons? 7.9 compression with thier pistons in a V6 does not mean the same compression in a 350. Would be best to get the scot brown pistons as they have the custom compression height, custom dish cc, and the valve reliefs. Go with 8:1 for high boost or 9:1 for lower boost.
got you... any idea about scotties prices.. ... depending on how high of boost would be possible on 9:1! My plan is to get the single Turbo setup 1st, depending on Ethan then run my stock block (V6 Pistons already! with true 9:1 comp) without IC an use Water-Meth inj if necessary! well im runnig low boost mainly 7-9 Psi max, but would be great to be able to crank it up to 14psi if needed... i just dont know if Water?meth can handle that? So im also debating on a IC setup right away but it will depend on the space i have i guess.. i dont want to have a pipe masacre that will lead to restriction and leak issues. on the side i will build a short block with forgesd pistons and rods, since i have a replacement block sitting here.
I ran 28lbs with 22 timing in my GN with Iron heads,stock pistons with 93octane and straight meth, I never mixed with water
Last time I talked with Racetec (Scotty), piston, pin fit and pins were just over $100 each They are still the least expensive of all the piston suppliers. If you are using the open chamber iron heads then the piston dish can be a simple round design
