so the stars aligned and the wind was in my favor! i will finally have the opportunity to install a cam into my 72 gs 350. i've decided to go with the TA 284 cam after lots of research here and other places. i understand it works well with the stock valve train. i do not plan to port the heads. i did find a local machine shop but really don't know what is required or beneficial much less affordable in that department. should i do head work? is it required? what do i ask the machine shop to do to my heads? do i trust them to do a good job or PAY for Mr. Gessler? anything i can do myself? i just want to make sure that i do it correctly the first time and have all the parts i need ready to go. so far i'm tracking the cam, new lifters, new push rods, a complete gasket kit, new timing chain and gears, new water pump. i have read that this cam likes a higher stall converter but i am not removing the transmission now. i understand you have to do that to install a new torque convertor? is there a breakin procedure for this cam? do i need to change the valve springs? should i wait and power time the car until after the cam is installed? any special tools required for a safe at home install? i'll be following the "first timers guide to building a SBB" thread on here as well as the service manual for 72 350's. fingers crossed, it should really wake the car up as long as i take my time and get it done correctly. hope i don't break anything! thanks in advance for anyone who contributes to this thread.
Glad to hear everything is going well!!! Regarding the torque converter, might as well leave it alone for now... The 284 will be fine with a stock converter, just better with a higher stall so no real issue there. I would do a leakdown test (you can buy a kit for low $), it will let you know if your valves are sealing... If they are not sealing you will need a valve job, so might as well just get your local shop to do a mild porting on them while they are at it... If you do have to have the heads worked on then I suggest soaking the exhaust bolts with PB Blaster to help free them up. Google search "cam break in" and you will find lots of info...:beers2:
thanks sean! i have educated myself on the breakin procedure. :TU: as far as the rest of my questions go... 1-other than the leakdown test, are there any other special tools required for the at home install? 2-any parts left out/not necessary? (cam, lifters, pushrods, timing chain/gears, gasket kit, springs?,) 3-power time before or after the installation? both? thats all i can remember at the moment. i'm sure others will arise throughout this ordeal! o No:
If everyone listed questions in seperate lines with numbers, it would be easy to answer!!:beers2: Normally it is a scavenger hunt LOL:rant: 1. If you have access to an air compressor then your just need a leakdown kit with an adapter to screw into the spark plug hole. 2. a) It looks like you have a good list of stuff... Better to have more things than required then trying to order something after the fact (unless you are in no rush). b) When you remove the pushrods roll them on a flat surface to see if they are straight... Also inspect them for damage. BTW before you take things appart, it is a good idea to remove the valve covers and run the engine for a minute to make sure there is nothing ticking in the top end. If there is a ticking you will want to find out why, if not then great. c) I suggest new springs, go with the stage 1 springs from TA as they do not require machine work the way others do. Sure the stock springs MIGHT be ok however they should be tested and that costs $, might as well be safe in my mind. 3. I would not bother power timing untill after the cam install and after it is running well. Look around some of my other posts the past few days, I posted some tuning tips for power timing and carb settings.
Port your heads if you can! Initially I did not during my initial rebuild with the 284 but then changed my mind when I went back in for unrelated reasons. The stock heads were matched to a TA manifold which wasn't necessary but the weight loss itself was worth the $$ and I did notice a difference. Also depending on you rear gear ratio changing the torque converter will give you a noticeable difference as well. I held off on that for some time as well but the change did put me into a better power band and gave the car more kick off the line. In the end it all comes down to your budget and what you are looking for. Good luck! :beer
As long as the base circle is the same on the 284 as the stock cam... I have used the stock pushrods with a TA212 cam no problem...
But the lifters surely need replaced right? How about the timing gears/chain and water pump? All are new. 4k miles on them
You will not need to replace the springs with that cam (Stock is ok). If you chose the next cam up (TA290-94H) then you would need to replace the springs. As long as your pushrods are ok (not bent) no need to replace those either. Always a good idea to replace lifters with a new cam.
Assuming the stock valve springs are nearly 40 years old, why would you not spend the $80 for a new set? I know one company that sells all the goodies together in a kit: cam, timing set, lifters, springs, maybe even valve seals. All meant to be together under one roof! o No:
I totally agree with your point, I was just answering his question whether he needed to upgrade based on the cam.:TU:
Here is the kit, they have others as well: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-K92-203-4/ I prefer the TA 212 or TA 284 cam kit as well as the TA Stage 1 vavle springs...
I believe all those parts included in that kit are fairly close in price to what TAs parts would total up to. Even if it was another $50 I would rather go with TA
I can furnish this stuff too at a competitive price and have already done a few for guys on here. Let me know if I can help. Thanks Mark
This is the Comp Cam 268 I bought this in 1983, very old design. Even if I had to pay $50.00 more I would go with the TA part. Dual pattern cam which is what the Buick engine likes. Plus you would be supporting TA products and maybe with the extra money given to them hopefully this will be put into a Aluminum head project for the 350.
