Alignment Numbers for Radial Tires on a '69 GS

I just finished putting my front end back together and plan on taking it in for alignment. I have seen numerous posts with all kinds of discussion about the best numbers......but am unable to find them now using the "search" function. Any recommendations and or links to those better discussion threads would be greatly appreciated. I decided on the regular ball joints so I may not reach the "best" setting but I'll have them do their best based on the recommendations. Thank you very much, Mike

 

Anyone?

 

Ask Tom T. He has posted on the settings for these vintage cars now that they are equipped with radials.

 

Thank you Jim and Larry!

Looks like the shims effect Camber and Caster. I'm taking it in in the am. He was happy I had the shims. Guess they no longer use shims. Positive caster is curious. Should I be approaching the 0.75" shim thickness limit to get max. Caster? Or do I leave the Camber spec before that?

Thanks again,
Mike

 

With radial tires, I was constantly wearing the outer edges of my front tires way before my rear tires would show much wear. I decided the stock specs aren't good for much.

You would really benefit from a more modern alignment. If everything is stock, I'd put as much positive caster in as I could. I'd try for +5° if possible but if you can get even +2°, that's better.

For camber, I like -0.5° and for toe-in go with 1/16" or less.

My cars have tall upper ball joints (needed new ones anyway) and I've put tubular upper control arms to gain more positive caster. I run +5° caster, -0.5° camber and 1/16" toe-in.

 

me thinks you meant -0.5 camber.

 

I did and corrected.

 

1/16th. toe is NOT enough. It will now start wearing the insides of the tire.

 

For the average driver, maybe. I've not noticed anything yet. As I said, I used to burn the outer edge of my tires with my driving style. If I start to see wear, I'll increase to an 1/8".

 

That may be true Larry, BUT in my experience 1/16th. is not enough. Myself I would start with at least 1/8". Don't forget the older steering linkage had some movement which will tend to spread the tires out while driving down the road.

Tom T.

 

Use a curtain rod, errr toe bar, like we do on ME/BE and others

 

Thanks for all the input. The alignment was a swing and a miss. The only thing they managed to complete is bending the shifter rods so that it bearly shifts into third or reverse now.

 

I have a very tight front end. The steering box, tie rods, ball joints, idler and drag link are all new. I also check the tires with an infrared thermometer to see they are evenly heated across the tread.

 

Glad you noted that you changed it. Otherwise if you read through the thread I would just look really stupid.

 

What the heck are they messing with the shifter rods for??

 

I hope I never make anyone look stupid, even myself.