Kerry....how does the front attach to the timing cover? I had to use silicone on the Stefs pan due to the reversed front lip. Bruce
Kerry Hey Kerry, are you going to put a vacuum pump on your motor? I see you have your lifter galley epoxied but I can't see enough to notice any openings for crank case ventilation other than the drain backs. What kept you from tapping the side of the filter plate by the bypass for an oil feed to the back of the block. I was told there was better pressure and volume there than at the side of the block and it wouldn't take away as much from what your sending to the front of the block? Then you would have the pressure port available for a guage. Just compairing information and curious. What do you think?o No:
Hi Bruce, If you look closely at the pic you'll see I've got a TA main girdle so there is the spacer that the pan bolts to and which in turn it bolts to the timing cover. Steve (SRE) did have to modify his design for me because of the fact I'm also using TA's Halo girdle. By reducing the front depth of the pan to clear my crossmember and steering linkage it then needed notches added to clear the Halo. I'm not quite sure I know what you are referring to by "the reversed front lip"?o No:
Re: Kerry Hi Rick, Yes I do plan on adding a vacuum pump. If you look closely you'll see that the foundation for the epoxy is first AM&P's Lifter Valley Girdles steel plates that I very closely contoured for a low, tight fit. In each of those plates I've drilled and tapped and fitted STEF's Valley Breather Tubes. Also the front of the engine, behind the timing chain I've drilled (2) 5/8" holes for draining on deceleration as well as vents for the crankcase. With this going into a Regal there is not near enough as much room as in the earlier Skylark/GS chassis. That was my main reason for doing as I did plus the fact that I really don't think it makes that much of a difference. o No: I've just gotten into the habit of taking pressure from the rear of the block as to me it's going to give you a more accurate assessment being the farthest from the pump. This may not be the way others do or would do it but it seems to work good for me.:TU: Here's another pic of the full lifter valley showing the breather tubes......
Here's a pic of the front of the block showing the drain/pressure relief holes behind the timing chain.....
Hey Kary, Looks good.:TU: My #6 an line was a bit close in the back in relationship tp the flywheel. What did you do to get your #8 to clear. The place you picked to get the pressure was cool. I was asking about taking pressure off the filter plate verses the side of the block. If you've got the pressure it really doesn't matter, just thought I 'd bring up the topic to through it out on the table for conversation purposes, not to knock your craftmanship.:Brow:
Hi Rick, That actually took me several tries (and hours) of a combination of tapping deep enough to almost fully seat the 3/8"NPT to -8AN fitting into the block and cutting down the NPT part to shorten it up so it doesn't interfere with my pressure pick-up point. Plus the fact of the necessary grinding/clearancing of the block webbing back there. I understood what you were saying and took no offense what-so-ever. I too believe that more than one approach should be explored.:TU: BTW.....I wish I had the funds right now for your Moroso Vacuum Pump set-up , that looks like a really good deal to me!:Smarty:
I bet it took some work to get it to fit.:blast: Its pretty tight back there. I went the easy route and put a #6 in it. Much less headache........................Unless you count the time when the pipe fitting broke off flush in the block after it was in the car right after I got it started.:blast: I'm attaching a pic of my current front plumbing setup.
Rick, Your set-up there looks real good!:TU: What's that -12AN line for, evacuation straight from the crankcase to the header collector maybe?o No: If so I bet you are also running one out of the fuel pump cover plate on the opposite side too? I been thinking of running one there myself connected directly to a vacuum pump.:Smarty:
Hey Rick is that a girdle I see sandwiched between the pan and block? Ante Hey Kerry, Chili sez you're an OK guy......its just too bad you like Buicks, LOL!:grin: :moonu:
The #12 line you see is a External pickup I made with an in-line Moroso pick-up filter that goes directly to the top of the pump over the gears from the pan. The block has a plug in the original pickup passage and there's an additional plate where the pickup tube mounted to. The in line filter is a very coarse screen that take place of a screen in the pan so I can monitor it to make sure it is not getting clogged with any type of debris-rtv, bearing metal, ect. Yeh, there's a girdle there and a halo girdle on the inside with a bunch of other tricks.:Brow: The #12 line for my vacuum pump comes off the back of the intake and there's a relief valve on the valve cover.
Rick, can you tell us more about the pick-up filter mod? It sure is a better place to spot large debris. Thanks. Ramin
Oh Yeah Ante.....too bad:Brow: :laugh: :Brow: Rick....sounds like a slick set-up there. I like the external in-line screen filter too!:TU:
Filter/Pickup line I made a tapered aluminum box inside my pan that is set up to savange 1/4" off the bottom of the pan. It connects to a #12 bulkhead fitting and goes through the passenger side of the oil pan sealed by "o" rings. A #12 line @6" long goes into the #12 moroso pickup filter #23860 then to another section of #12 line to a large #12 to 1" NPT 90 degree fitting that has been trimmed and welded to the top of the pump where it feeds directly over the gears. There is a small "box" that sticks out just above the gears on the front cover where the oil intake passage is. This box was ground off and opened up sufficiently then the fitting was welded on. I blocked off the stock passages with a plug in the block and a plate over the pickup tube mount. I believe AMP has a replacement lower plate kit that allows a #12 Feed line to go into it and also reduces restriction but my setup cost me under $100. The only thing I had to buy was the Moroso in-line filter. I got all the lines and fittings off of UH-1 HUEY helicopter's we were gutting out and turning in. They where throwing away all the braided lines so I thought I would make good use out of them.
Rick, did you weld your own sump to the stock pan? If so what mods did you do on the inside like baffles.... I've got a weird chassis and I have to make a bigger sump myself. I need some ideas and tips on how to do it. Ante
Hi Guys, Rick......that set-up looks really good. Here's a pic of a swivel dual -12AN inlet that I recently picked up from Indy Head Service the last time I was over there. I plan on this being for my 'charged 475ci and coupled with the Peterson pump/vac unit. I also like the fact it has a "dorsal fin" to follow the oil for both acceleration and deceleration.:TU: Maybe this is something others (or yourselfo No: ) have not seen due to it being basicly a Mopar item...
My Stef's pan has no provision for bolting to the timing cover. The oilpan lip goes back toward the motor rather than away as in a stock pan. What are people doing?? I just used silicone. Bruce
Kary COOOOLLLLLL!!!!I want one!:TU: :Brow: Bruce, I wish I could help. My whole bottom half of the motor is RTV'd together. The only problem is the little pieces that break off and get in the pickup screen. I can pick them out now with the external screen.:TU:
That 's the P/U that I got when I went to the "Scavenger" external system. Oil pressure is always there,accel.,decel,whenever. I did gain about 20 PSI with this system,I'm trying to figure the best way to "give back" about 15PSI as I think 90PSI through the traps at 6700rpm is a little too much. Any idea's?
