Peterson has external pressure regulators, you could hook inline and route excess oil back into a non-pressure area. Fuel pump location would work well or tap into the side of the oil pan and route extra oil back there.
Bruce......Do you mean it has an un-equal lip where it meets closer at the block/cover/spacer intersection and then gradually increases gap from there on out?? Like in this pic.....and as you can see this is without the pan gasket in place but the timing cover gasket is there.
Rick.....That pick-up will put you back $125. The screen on it is removable too. Here's another pic of it...
Gary......where are you taking your pressure readings from, the front or the rear? Personally I'd be very careful there as my last Stage3 had what I considered "high pressure" readings too (in the high 80's/ low 90's BUT taken from the front and was with the HP/HV pump) and when I lowered it it wasn't long afterwards that I lost that engine.:ball: Does your Scavenger system use an adjustable regulator? Have you tried backing it out a turn or two? Only minimal results? What about the pressure relief spring you're using? Have you tried a weaker used one maybe? Just throwing out some ideas....o No: I think Dennis may have a good idea if you decide to leave all as is but you would want to meter it in some way and would probably only want to use no bigger than a -3AN line. :TU: Hope something I've said is in someway beneficial...
that sounds just fine to me... I would not give back anything.. 70 psi is great for a motor that revs to 6.. JW
Kerry, no my front lip is not like that. It goes forward then back toward the motor ....no way to put bolts in other than coming thru the timing cover first after drilling and taping the pan flange. This Stefs pan had been a nightmare since they fabbed it for use with a block girdle. I spent hours gring away alot of the side scrapers for clearance. Bruce BQUICK
Hi everyone. Once again I must apologize for not being up to speed on the web site. I only check the site when I have time and I didn't have much time lately. I would like to thank Kerry S., Bruce Hunter and everyone else for their positve comments about SRE products. I am building a car for a local NFL football player, and it has been monopolizing most of my time. I still intend to supply products to any Buick people that need them. Unfortunatly it is taking longer than I originaly anticipated to do the R&D. I definitly want to do the products right the first time! I am working on several new products now, including a complete external oil pump system using the Peterson Wet/Vac pump. I am working with Peterson to develop some of the unique features needed for our Buicks. I will have this system on my car in Bowling Green. From there I hope to work out any bugs that might arise. This will also give more opportunity to do more testing of the fit and function of my oil pans. Anyone needing fabricated steel or aluminum components should feel free to call. I love a challenge! Ph. 920-684-6776 Thank you all again!!! Steve Reynolds
I found this great thread while searching for info. I have my stage 2 going again and am now checking oil pressure at the back of the block. Idles cold at about 50 PSI; hot(250*) at about 18PSI; oil pressure at 4000RPM(250*) is about 65 PSI with 5-30 Mobil 1 oil. Pressure limited to 70 PSI. It is set up tight, hence the thin oil. Is that enough for a 494 that revs to maybe 6500? Coated bearings looked perfect at last teardown. (except cam bearings, probably dead from 20-50 oil I tried using to help with oil temp issues. The dist gear was a giveaway). This is even with the pan heater I have on it. Another hot-oil problem due to hard-block. Can anybody substantiate or dispell the "don't use an oil cooler on a Buick" story? My last idea is to run water tubes that circulate coolant through the pan . My oil-pan capacity is now around 12 QT's.(it only delays the inevitable oil-temp rise)
Weld? = Recondition? Hi Rick I have been reviewing all the oiling mod threads on the site since I haven't had a lot of success with the stock BBB system. In your setup, once you weld in the fitting bosses to the oil pump housing does it warp the pump housing so that it must be reconditioned? o No: Larry Eaton aka Weekender
I didn't have any distortion in my housing but that doesn't mean that it can't happen. I believe there is enough material above the gears that you should be fine. The only think I had to do was clean-up the oil pump shaft guide. There was a small spot halfway down the guide that needed cleaned up. easy fix. :TU:
