Stef's, TA. Poston... Anywhere else? I'm shopping for a deep sump race pan. >>>First thoughts... Too XXXXXX expensive. :ball: Thanks! John
John, In the GS Extra is an avertisement by SRE Performance fabrications. 7Qt. Oil Pans with baffles/ comes with new pickup and hardware 350.00 on exchange basis, 125.00 core charge. It says they are working on an aluminum fabricated oil pan for the Big Blocks, says to call for details. 920-684-6776, 2028 Meadow way, Manitowoc, WI 54220.
I have been to their shop and seen their aluminum pans. A very nice piece with extremely high quality welding.
SRE fabrications Hi John, Steve Renolds is the owner of SRE fab. he is very detail oriented and meticulous in every way, if you ever see his gorgeous blue GS, you'll better understnd what I mean, Give him a call on his oil pans, I have seen them and they are top of the line pieces! I currently have his valve covers and they fit and look real nice! he can fab and orweld just about anything you need. HTH, Bruce
Hi Guys, John.....I can personally vouch for Steve and his business, SRE. I recently purchased a custom pan from him made especially for my Regal project. It's made for use with a block girdle and for clearing an un-modified crossmember. The quality is WELL WORTH the price to me!:TU: Here's a pic of it on my block.....
Kerry, those pans sure look good, probably a good weight savings over a Poston pan. how much oil do those pans hold? Randy
Hey Reynold, I don't believe Steve has a website at this time, his ph# is posted above. and he runs an add in the GS-xtra as well. Steve and his wife Debbie are two great Buick people to know, they are very detail oriented,and dedicated Buick enthusiasts. Bruce
Oil Line Kerry Just looked at the pictures of your SRE pan - very cool. But what is with the external oil line you have in the picture? While you are building a race motor and I am just building a street motor - highly modified - I am wondering what is up with that line. It looks like you are running from the spot in the block where the oil pressure sending unit screws in. Where is it going in the back? Thanks dukec o No:
Re: Oil Line if he's doing what i think he is, then i was just about to post a question about it. i was scoping out the oiling system on my block yesterday, and i saw the tip on buickperformance.com about moving the oil pressure sending unit to the rear of the block. then i started wondering why i couldn't run an external line from the oil pump to the rear of the block, to pump oil through the driver side lifter gallery. it would be flowing against the current through the block, but i can't think of any reason why that would mess things up? is that what it's for, Kerry?:Brow:
Yes, the sheet aluminum pans are much lighter than the cast Poston's pan but I'm using a combination TA main/HALO girdles with the SRE pan so I'm sure it still weighs more.:grin: I've yet to actually fill my pan but I would think it's capacity is somewhere between 6 and 7 qts for it plus filter. The other pan pictured on the right I would guess to be at least a 9qt pan.:TU:
Re: Oil Line That is to directly feed the rear of the engine. There is typically a 5-10psi drop in pressure from the front to rear and this will help to equalize that.:TU: ACTUALLY the engine pictured is for my driver Regal project! My Stage3 EFI Procharger'd race engine for my GS will use PAE's upcoming new 455 block as a foundation!:TU::TU: :grin: Yep that's right! All the oil galleries in the block that can benefit from it are drilled out. That paticular one is drilled out to 7/16" and is re-tapped to 3/8"NPT. A -8AN line is ran to the rear thru a bulkhead fitting above the starter then up to the pass. side lifter gallery. I drill this gallery out to 1/2" from the rear to meet the front portion that is already drilled to that. The factory "necked" it down to 3/8" at the center cam bearing journal in an attempt to boost pressure to the rear of the block. I also drill and tap and use a 4"X1/8"NPT long brass tube as my new pressure reference point. From there I use a "T" block so I can use both my factory guage (or "idiot" light) and a good quality aftermarket guage such as my Autometer Pro-Comp guages. Here is a pic of the continuation of the new feed line to the rear as well as the new reference point...
Re: Re: Oil Line Yep Tim that's correct!:TU: It's not going to "mess things up" if done properly. It does require that some clearancing on the block webbing be done back there so that everything will clear the flywheel/flexplate OK. As well as drilling and re-tapping of a couple of things. In this situation I would definately be sure and use an adjustable pressure regulator and use accordingly. Most importantly though (to me at least:Smarty: ) is that the crank feed holes in the main saddles of the block (#2-5) be drilled out to 11/32" (the front should already be 3/8") all the way to the lifter gallery to insure more oil to the rods. With all the drilling and tapping you'll be doing (whether doing the main saddles to the crank or not) this is definately not something you'll want to do without the engine being completely disassembled. If you don't already have a copy, be sure and get Steven Dove's (Jim Burek's the major contributing author for the V8 section) "how-to" Buick book "Guide to Buick Performance Engine's". Jim did a great job and it gives good illustrated pic's for you to see and work with. Definately good reading for even those of us who've been around Buicks for awhile! :TU:
yep, got the book. some of it seems to go against the 'conventional wisdom' of the forum, but it's still very helpful. what is the braided line in the left hand side of that last picture? where does it go?
That's one of the two "direct-to-the-pan" drain lines because I also have a filled lifter valley. In this pic you can see where they drain to each side of the rear main seal just inside the pan rails. Also look closely and you'll see the plates that fill the voids between the lifter bores. Notice too that there is an additional hole directly above the camshaft to further help in draining as this will be a street car.
velly intellesting! i've seen the picture of your lifter valley from above, and wondered where those drain holes go- now i know! how did you drill the lifter galley out? foot-long drill bit? and if you're completely re-routing the driver side lifter galley, are the grooved cam bearings necessary? seems like they'd be a common failure point in a high-lift cam, being so thin. you've said before that you're running a 14+ qt oil supply in that thing, do these extra lines require that much more capacity? sorry if i'm asking for 'Confidential- for Kerry's eyes only' info, i'm just naturally curious :Brow:
Yes, I went to a local hardware store and picked up a foot-long 1/2" drill bit. I think it was around $15 (a few years back), TA Performance also sells a drill bit kit (part#2060 for $65.00) that includes the nesessary bits for the oil gallery enlargement. It includes 5/8",1/2" and 17/32". They also stock a 9/16" too. All but the 17/32"(6") has a 12" shank. I'm not "completely re-routing" just splitting the feed so that it's feed from both front (as normal) and rear so that the oil "meets" midway in the block and thus should equalize pressure (hence....no drop as it normally does from front to rear). I still use the grooved cam bearings. They are a "much better than stock" material and design. I've never had a problem with them. That being said......MANY other Buick racers are using MUCH bigger cams (rollers) and spring pressures than I and I've not heard of any problems. Actually what you are seeing here is for my Regal project. The 14+qt stuff I've talked about before is on my GS with a Moroso 3qt Accumulator, -10AN lines and a System1 remote filter along with a TA 9qt pan. All the lines and such give me that kind of capacity. As far as the Regal, I'm not to sure how much (if any) of this stuff I will add to it as it is just intended to be my driver.:Brow: There's nothing "confidential" about this stuff. Most of this was/has already been done to one extent or another before I did it. I don't really take any credit for this. Especially the filled valley, or the oiling modifications. Just things I've learned over the years.:TU:
