I found the thin walled brass tube that JW suggested and I’m going to put that in the suction tube for extra insurance.
Ok guys I have read everyone’s comments on this thread and others. The more information I cram into this brain i don’t know if I’m answering my questions or just going backwards and creating more! Ok my 430 block as you saw i found the bad cast pistons with cracks in them. They were about 20 plus years old. So now i have the block at machine shop and cylinders needed to be put out to .060 over because.030 bore from years ago was a pretty terrible job according to the machine shop. Lots of slop.. the block is also going to get decked. I believe he said it was .002 lower in center portion. This sound about right? Ok so now i have the question if the block gets bored .060 over , the block decked. I go back in with the cast .060 pistons from TA and use my irons heads, with a TA 110 cam. If i go back together with all this am i going to have a reliable stock motor that i Can enjoy for years to come? Not looking to try and run down track . Just want to enjoy cruising with the car and yes hammering every once in awhile to lay down some rubber! I have read up on this quenching on deck height between pistons and heads. From what I’m understanding the factory specs were off and there is too big a gap/ space between the piston tdc and heads?
Don't get to caught up in the quench stuff,...millions of engines run just fine with no concern to it,...if you're going 60 and being a 430 block I'm sure the bores were plenty thick so just let them do their thing at the machine shop and don't overthink it or get to many opinions,..it's a stockish mild engine it will be fine,..my only recommendation is the Teflon grooved TA cam bearings,..they go in every engine I have done no matter it's usage And there's absolutely no guarantee it will last 30min or 30yrs,..that's cars,...expect the worse hope for the best
Yep those are ordered! Ok Thanks for feedback. Just so much info out there! Its great getting all this knowledge for sure but makes a guy second guess himself sometimes
just asking, I don't know availability for the 430. Isn't there a .40 over or something less than .060 piston available? I know when choosing a of the shelf part you are at the mercy of availability. My other question was if you were going to keep this motor for years to come, why not have custom ones made. Yeah, I know not cheap, and probably in todays times it probably would take 6 months to get. Anyway, Good luck, hope it woks out for you. Fernando
Yup, money well spent. You can get zero deck and dial in your static compression. Talk with Jim Weise about custom pistons. Here is a 430 he did years ago about the same time he did my engine. It's a Stage2 aluminum headed deal, but the short block would be what I think you should do. https://v8buick.com/index.php?threads/new-buildup-448ci-stg-2-se-hyd-roller-an-mpg-motor.252771/
So I would probably react the same way as you. I have never rebuilt a car engine. But for what it is worth, a few words from an outside observer. This engine already lived 50 years+, with the wonky oil pump solution it has stock and what else. And now it is rebuilt to the stock specs, or even better, and will be operated the way it was intended to be run. Will definitely be maintained and checked better than the by the average owner in the 70's. Stuff is mostly sturdy iron, and you will use like 10% of the power potential of the engine on average. I think logic tells us your engine will likely outlive us all, I would try not to worry and look forward to get back on the road
If you're looking at the TA1606 cast replacement pistons, there is a +.040 over piston listed for that. Talk to your machinist and see if the block will clean up with at .040. They may just be able to hone it if the bore isn't too bad scored or damaged(gouged or deep score marks) That way, at least you'll have 1 more rebuild/rebore option with the 430 block. Do you have any pics of the bad areas in the cyls? edit... Big question is...does TA have them in stock, or can they get them in a decent amount of time. I'm running the TAs cast pistons for the 455 in my 66. They work good. These pistons have a slightly taller compression height than stock. I would have your machinist figure out how much to deck the block to at least get a little closer to the stock 430 compression. You wouldn't need to zero deck, because then you would have to machine intake to match. The advertised compression is like the suggested retail price, it's in the general ballpark.
The motor was already a .030 over bore years back. The cylinders were bad enough they had to go out to .060 over. TA does have a set and I have them coming already.
I thought that was done! I wondered why you were so fast. Applying the JB weld without the tube installed was a mistake. You may now have difficulty getting the tube to slide past the epoxied part… Jim’s directions are beautifully clear…. Fingers crossed…
Well with how small the pin hole i figured a bit of jb would be just fine but then machine shop had me question myself. Definitely my mistake and i should have installed the brass tube and jb..
Hydraulic lifters do not have lash, they have preload, and the stock Buick valve train is NOT adjustable. You can buy adjustable push rods, roller rockers (expensive), or you can use one adjustable push rod to determine proper length, and then order a set of the correct push rods.
So my cam only has around 500 miles and looks good so i am going to throw that back in. With the motor bored and new piston/ rings was wondering what most use for break in oil? I usually run shell rotella t-4 15/40. You guys think i should just run that and dump that oil after a short break in run? Or use a lighter oil like royal purple 5w-30 / 10w-30 break in oil? And since cam is already broke in does the motor still require a break in ? Thoughts? Ryan
Did you keep the lifters in order? Are you using new lifters? Use special break in oil, then drain and use conventional or syn. There are many reasons not to use diesel oils.
