As said--if the lifters are going into the same block, in the same positions--you're likely to have success. If the lifters are not kept in order, matched to their same cam lobe...things get less optimum. When it's me, I would consider using break-in oil although I have not to this point. My more-recent engines have been roller-cam. What I do is install a bypass oil filter (Frantz azzwipe filter assemblies, but there are other brands with different filter media) that can be had on eBay as used or even sometimes NOS for under $120, maybe way under $120. Getting oil TO the filter is easy--tee into the oil pressure sending unit port, route a Dash 4 (1/4 inch nominal) hose that will withstand oil, hot-oil temperature, and maximum oil pressure to the filter inlet. Returning that oil to the engine is more tricky. You can weld a fitting to the oil fill cap, with a hose back from the filter. Or install a fitting directly into the oil pan before the pan is assembled to the engine. Drill and tap a hole into the intake manifold, if the manifold also serves as a lifter-valley cover. Or be clever and think of something else. The bypass filter keeps the oil as clean as new. Any break-in metal dust that doesn't end up in the regular full-flow filter, will be trapped in the bypass filter. If a person uses thick, Moly-based paste for cam lube, that stuff can plug a full-flow filter in twenty minutes of run-time. So change the full-flow filter at ~20 minutes, add another quart of oil, and keep going because the bypass filter is still doing it's job. I can't see dumping expensive oil when there's a known method/procedure for filtering it so it can continue in service. At whatever point you think the "break-in" is complete, you could remove the bypass filter entirely, change to your "regular" oil, and be happy. Or, you can retain the bypass filter. As long as the housing is still hot when the engine is in use, it's still filtering. When the housing doesn't get hot, change the roll of toilet paper, or install a fresh specialty filter element as required.
Good - one trick I learned on here is to turn the cam after you put it and the lifters back in and verify that each lifter is turning.
Ok I am getting ready to start assembly of my motor. Still waiting on TA to make the oil pump assembly.. but I did decide to buy the edelbrock aluminum intake. Was wondering if I can use the same bolts that were used on the stock intake or do I need different bolts? I read I need to torque bolts to 40 ft lbs.. Ryan
I used the factory bolts when I did mine. The only time you might need different intake bolts is if you have aluminum heads. My Edelbrock heads used 400-430 bolts so you should be good.
Ok guys i need help. Went to start putting pistons in motor and the dimples on connecting rods and cap wheel i took motor apart had dimples facing inward toward the other connecting Rod. The machine shop put them on the wrong side on 4 connecting rods. They are telling me it does Make a difference. I think it does… can anyone help with this?.
Thanks Larry! The machine shop im working with is getting a bit irritating! But I’m limited on who I have up here in Alaska.. Thanks for the link!
What do you guys use for measurements of cam lobe lift? A dial indicator extension? Or an actual indicator cam lobe tool? I got a summit cam degree kit but have no way of measurements of lift on cam lobe accurately. Ryan
Depending on the clearance available--works better on a short-block than a long-block in many cases. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-4925 plus "your choice" of dial indicators.
https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/camshaft-degreeing-101.220945/ http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s110/tspjim455/TA 413 cam degreeing/100_4567.jpg http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s110/tspjim455/TA 413 cam degreeing/100_4567.jpg http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s110/tspjim455/TA 413 cam degreeing/100_4566.jpg
Ok guys I need help! Degree the TA cam. The cam is TA c110. when I do the intake lobe center I keep coming up with 104/ 105 I have the degree for sure set a true tdc at zero mark. I go .050 each direction at max lift for the intake lobe. I continue to get 104/105. I put the cam gear and crank dots lined up. The TA card calls for 0 degree advance. But I keep coming up shy of the 110 intake center lobe calculations. Do I need to move my crank gear for advance or retard to get my intake lobe center to 110? Or is the cam not correct for what the card calls for? When i measure max lift that came out perfectly at .296 .. I read through JW post and I see he turns the crank gear to get his measurements to match with his cam card. I guess that’s my biggest question is my card calls for zero advance. So if i need to move my crank gear to get my reading to match the Cam card is this the right thing to do? Even though the card states 0 advance? Do I set my crank gear to 5/6 retard to get the 110 im looking for? im lost…. Ryan
This is how my gears look right now sitting at tdc. Crank is on 0 keyway and dots are lined up. I have two other keyways on the crank gears. 1 for R and 1 for A. I attached pictures
