I got the crank here at work and I'm thinking about rounding the forward side counterweights for a little help in rotaional HP. I'm sure I did this on my 455 plus smooth all the metal and parting lines. I don't have a before pic right now so this is the best I got.
I got the crank back home and took some pics. I still need to round the leading edge of the weights and smooth the sides but this is how far I got so far.
After main journal measurement It will have to be cut to .020 so I might pull the crank out of the 68 short block still in the other car and check it to see if it has been cut before. I came up with 2.985 and that's .015 undersize from 3.000 standard size. I used a dial bore gauge and zeroed that to the gauge and measured the mains with bearings torgued to 100lbs and had .003 to .0035 clearance so I can't deal with that. I got to have .002. I know we can go .020 under but I would rather be .010 at the most.
Ron,-.020 undersize on a 3.00" main is nothing. The same crank has been cut down to a 2.500" main without issue,to run in a sbb 300 stroker.And the rod journals have been cut down to 1.850" on a super charge 370 cid stroker 700 HP application. So you don't have to worry about the strength of the crank with -.020 undersize,if that is your concern. Save yourself some work(and $$ from not having to get another crank for the other engine) and just run the -.020 undersize. As long as there is an undersize bearing available,just go to the next undersize if needed,not a big deal. Derek .
I have worked this 350 crank as much as I think that will help the performance of the build. I knife edged the leading edge if the weights and polished the rest of it before I take it to the machine shop.
Any engine I build is balanced so there won't be any vibrations to shake it apart. I noticed some big holes drilled in the weights originally so there will be a place to fill them if needed.
Havn't done that yet I still need to take the crank and block to the machine shop. I got .003 to .0035 clearance on the mains so I will probably have it line honed. I also have some minor scratches in the cylinders so when I checked the piston to wall clearance I think it can be honed a little for those pistons. Then if they can hone it I will do it with torgue plates. If I fill the block should I do that now and how high should I fill it?
How much power are you going to run with this build? You shouldn't need block fill unless your going to have some crazy power,like blower,turbo ,or lots of nitrous type power. Any power you can make N/A,you shouldn't have to fill the block. And yes,if you fill the block,it should be honed after.
The whole ideal was to run 10's in the 1/4 with a small block. I'm pretty sure that won't be a problem with a 3200 lbs car or lighter. But while it's apart I want to do what I can to help it. I was told that even on a low power engine, block filling can help .2 to .5 in the quarter by just keeping the cylinders from changing shape.
Is this a street/strip,or just strip car? If its a S/S car,then fill it to the bottom of the freeze plugs,if its strip only,you can go more. I'm not sure about picking up that much time by doing it though,never really did a comparision,but it will help with ring seal. Its been a while since I read this thread,I'll have to refresh my memory.ou:
Mostly strip. Maybe a trip to Sonic or Menards. I was reading through the thread again and someone said to use the new 231 timing cover with the 1/2 in. oil hole. Does that mean the new 350 cover isn't 1/2 in? Since I just bought one but it's not here yet.
If you got the one from TA,then you should be all set,I think they have the 1/2" hole in it already.(If I remember correctly) And the 6 cylinder cover,the timing mark is slightly off from the 350 cover,just something you should be aware of if you go that route.(I'm going by memory,so I might be wrong about the timing mark,check it)
Looks like I will have to have pistons with valve reliefs if I go 0 deck since that cam is so big so I will have to have them for .040 over or use another block. So i'm just putting this out here to see what you people got. I'm looking for .040 over flat top pistons for a 350 or what does someone on here have with valve reliefs and full floating pins?
we just finished our son's rebuild, hopefully this is what it will look like when finished. we used stock parts from TA, TA284 cam, bearings, timing set, new timing cover, and Bolt kit,, all ARP stuff. and a carb (quadrajet ) from sean... nice
