In post 43 there is some info and pics of why the steel shim gaskets don't work on the later engines: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?92424-Project-started/page2
I checked the 77 heads annd they have the holes but do the 68 heads have the holes? If so what heads don't have the holes so that gasket would work? Iwas thinking about tapping and plugging those holes but they are oblong. hmmm more engineering work and not getting payed for it!
You can use the 68 heads with the steel shim gaskets on your 77 engine. Those 77 heads are no good anyways. yes, been there done that with trying to plus those holes to use them on a 70 block.... not worth the hassle.
Just want to update the build, I got the gaskets from Poncho but have not got the heads off of the 68 engine yet. Gary was on vacation and I have not got the pistons and rods from him yet. I am going to test and tune today with the 455 Buick at Indy. Fred Navatny has just informed me he has some racing parts for sale and we will see what he has.
Just got the pistons and rods from Gary for 250.00. I didn't want to spend that but they are high compression and forged. It looks like one of the rods is bent so Gary said check it in the bore to see if it is different in height from another. I got the crank in but haven't got the chance to put 4 pistons in. I have been trying to get the 455 ignition system going again. In the one pic the rod with the line on it looks bent to me.
When I was building my '72 / 350, Denny Manner came by and told me the .02 gaskets will work just fine on '72 Heads. Take it up with him. I tend to believe what he tells me. PONCH
If you need a rod, I have one.. Just PM me your address.. Also.. If you need exhaust manifolds, I have a nicely ported pair that have been milled, and coated with Calyx.. Price?? I plan now to use some headers that a buddy has on my build..
1 is bent and the rest are twisted from some one torguing the caps while holding the small end. I'm trying to get a good set from Sean. I will need headers but I'm about out of money and the race car needs an ignition box. I work at a dealer on comission and the work there is little to none so all is falling apart right now. Come on Lotto! Or a good sponsor!
Slow down and take a breath.. We'll be here. Doing it on a budget takes time. I found a set of 73 + rods that were ready to go from a manufacturer for about 75 plus the ride when I was looking.. If you want, I can try to find them again.. We'll find you some rods. Let me know if you want me to put the feelers out.. Jay
Sean gave me a good deal and a payment plan so they will be on there way soon. My mains are a little loose and I want 002 mains and rods. The rods are .0015. Gary said to have the mains cut on the high limit and the rods cut .0005. If the line bore is straight would you go that route on the crank?
I always remember the comment that kenne bell made about the 350 line bore. "Only line bore if the crank does not spin freely or if you add studs to the mains. I will make you a deal on the spare headers I have here.... Another payment plan and CHEEP! I guess I do not need to keep 7 sets of headers on the shelf... I want to turbocharger everything anyways LOL!:grin:
Just watched videos of how to remove pressed pistons but they never said this is how to save the pistons to intall to new rods. I was going to take picks of the rod holding fixture that I am making to show you how it's done. The reason you need this is because the pistons I got has socket marks on the sides on the piston where the last guy installed them. I might be a little anal here but to me a Buick part that is still reuseable should be kept in the best condition to work right in the next assembly. That's why I looked at the rods and noticed 1 was bent. Then I showed them to another engine builder and he said they were twisted. I also noticed the rod caps were really thin from resizing of the rods which could break under high RPMs. I had a set of 455 rods balanced from a known good engine shop that took the weight off of the caps where they should have took the weight off of the sides of the rods where the bosses were to take the weight off and I payed for it and Fred said throw them in the trash. I did and had another set balanced and had no problems. If you look at ebay on piston removal you will see the tool that I am making. This is where all Buick engine parts should be replaced with floating wrist pins but I kinow it wont happen unless I hit the Lottery. Let's move Buick up to the next level. Full floating pins. How hard is it to open up those rods and put bushings in them.
The good rods I am sending you are ready for floating pins as the bushings are already installed. I know you can easily convert the stock rods to floating, just bore them out and add bushings I a told. The only catch is that the pistons must have the grooves for the retaining clips that hold the pin in. You said your pistons have these grooves so you are good to go. You will be WAY better off with those good rods, the stock rods are the waek link of the 350!
Just wanted to let everybody know I got the rods from Sean, Thanks, and I bought a piston pin remover from Ebay for 225.00 which I think is a great deal for the items I got. I made 1 of the plates fit a 350 pin and it pressed off pretty easy. I think I will heat the others a bit before doing them.
I'm pretty sure this car will run 10's so I will be looking for a SFI balancer and flywheel for this 350. I need to do it now because if it does I will be legal to run those times.
