http://m.ebay.com/itm/Eagle-H-Beam-...ARP-cap-screws-bolts-/190781665008?nav=SEARCH. Take a look at these rods. 1.889 bearing so you can offset grind crank for .100 extra stroke. Custom piston height lighter piston. Sonic test block to see max overbore. And build a ministroker. 370 cubes or more depending on sonic test
Hm.. Well I guess if I can build a whole other block this could be very doable.. Seeing options now. If I find a buick 350 at junkyard it's probably gonna be a later one. So if I find a good block how much would I have to bore it to do this stroker build ? If I'm gonna nitrous its way too high 10s-low 11s does stroking it matter? Sounds like more of a pain then just building a really strong low end.
That's a bone stock low compression engine with high miles, if memory serves. He added a 3.73 posi and some slicks, dual exhaust bolted up to manifolds, and a 175 shot of juice. Not too bad eh? Moral of this story? Buick built strong engines from the factory. The parts are way stronger than they need to be for a stock engine, and a stock engine has to really rev in order to break itself apart. I've had a stock 1968 350-4 to 6500+ RPM sustained for minutes at a time, trying to blow it up. It will finally turn loose, but it takes a while. This was also in my younger and more foolish years. Point being: they can take a pounding! Reinforce those stock parts with a fresh rebuild, better rod and main bolts, and it should live a nice long life behind moderate nitro shots as long as you don't rev it too high. Not to mention the stock cam will last you much longer than the higher lift, more intense profile cams that wear out quickly (unless you go roller). Plus it's cheaper. Way cheaper. If you plan on having a street/strip nitro setup, there is zero point in building it beyond stock, unless you just want it to wear out quicker. Your drivetrain will last longer too. Less money spent on rear end and trans, less chance of breaking parts, etc... You can actually hook up on the street, as opposed to roasting your expensive tires through all gears, getting you nowhere other than in the blue spotlight. Play it smart. Don't underestimate the stock engine when built properly (stock parts massaged, compression ratio properly matched to the grade of fuel you wish to use, I.E., blueprinted). It's the foundation upon which all else rests. Trust that the Buick engineers knew what they were doing, and work with the existing engineering, not against it. Gary EDIT: here's that same car, first pass on slicks. Notice in all the videos you can hear the slicks wanting to break loose after every shift and even partially mid-RPM down the track. Notice the RPM he shifts at. This is not a 'low RPM' engine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=co7fE0BNWt4 Here he is with a 150 shot https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZzgCe6F88HY ...and again with a 200 shot https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPi82Zw15vw :TU:
With those lifts and 48/46 I/E lobe intensities, 'easy on the valvetrain' is the LAST thing I would call this cam! You're doing good to get moderate longevity out of a camshaft that has intensities within 55-60 range. Less than 50 is what I like to call a 'cam chewer' grind, that's IF you can get it past the break-in without wiping a lobe right from the beginning. This is why many go to roller cams with modern oils. It's good to have goals and dreams, but keeping them within the realm of possibility and out of the realm of castle in the sky is where you are less likely to be disappointed. Gary
Buick 350s are tuffer than nails :TU: I love em, after reading all the threads I could find from wild to mild i liked what I was reading. That's why I rebuilt mine, I re did everything though , other than brakes/tires/suspension. Im already like double digit thousands in with everything. After a while I just stopped counting, gave me a head ache. I dont see it it as that big a dream as you guys are making it. I'd call wanting to be a seal more far out than building a motor, which if I have my way, Ill try it, even if that means me failing and ending up on some F'n ship lol on this rebuild I did, I put arp studs on the heads. Completely forgot about putting them on the mains ou: I'm not going huge on the shot when I do it, I'm just curious if I can break into 11s with the setup I got currently with a 100 shot.as far as this new build I'm gonna do.. I asked about that solid cam cause out of everything I've read, no ones tried a solid cam in a build. Figured it be worth asking for enlightenment. This next motor would be with drag strip in mind, low 11s high 10s with nitrous. As big a shot as it takes. I figure on this one only stuff I'm gonna be spending real money on would be heads/rods/pistons. worst case scenario, those 3 will around be 5 grand. Doubt it, but hey. Stay out the ring if you don't wana get hit right? Il put arp on on mains/ heads, oil mods to block, all the little stuff it takes for a bottom end rebuild. Alum heads will take care of top.il take off sp3 off current build, maybe along with timing cover/water pump/ dampener maybe. what's cool is sense now I can work on new block I could go roller, wouldn't be to big a stretch. I just wondered if a big hydraulic or solid might "get errrrr done too". Big cam don't mean much if your spraying from the start with a 3200 stall and 3.42 gears right ? Hmm just re read what you mentioned..makes sense, I guess if I'm gonna go big on nitrous i don't need big cam.. Decisions decisions, that would suck though on the street. I'm ballsy with what I'm willing to do.. Wouldn't hit 200 shot of nitrous on the street though. if I killed myself, thats one thing. Wouldn't be ok with killing someone else like that though. Im good, so basically something thats still strong on motor and gets pushed real nice with nitrous at strip. BTW I appreciate you guys chiming in, all the info is awesome. Sure this thread will help others too. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Basse...5on475-55-In-Backspace-Black-Wheel,71956.html what do you guys think of these rims ?? :grin:
With the lighter stronger parts it will hold together better and rev farther.and more cubes is more power. A .060 overbore and .050 offset on crank will net a 370.
That is a good question. Numbers are just that, numbers. I've never owned anything faster than a 13 second car, and a 13 second car is plenty to get you in trouble. A 10 second car on the street is guaranteed to get you in trouble
My fastest car has been mid 12s for now. But have had many 14 second cars. And a few slower ones. But going to the track will a few friends to race was always good times. Even if I only ran 17 seconds. Just have fun.
No brother Never have, told you that. I wasn't making such a point to do it till that one thread got deleted when someone got butthurt about only wanting "track times" to prove it. So I'm gonna go down and prove it , no clue where my setup will land right now, don't care. Figure it out, see if I can go faster with what I got. Then il build this new motor.. On top of that one thread that got under my skin, friend of mine has a 2010 camero ss L99, bin boasting about how fast it is and this and that. I wana smoke that ****er
I encourage every one I know to take a car down the track if at all possible. It's a real eye opener. It will reveal whatever your car is lacking whether it be fuel, ignition or some mechanical weak link. Not to mention the biggest problem, traction. Make sure you have some sticky tires, don't even bother until you at least have that. It took me many years to even break into the 12's with my GS. That didn't happen until I went with good heads. That's with a big block. I don't want to pee on your oak wood fire:laugh:, but I think even with the heads and intake, you are looking at low 13's, maybe high 12's if everything is right. The juice will get you even lower if you have no problems with that. I hope you prove me wrong.:grin:
Sonoma raceway is kinda far from me but I'm looking forward too it! My dad thinks il blow the engine but he can stick it where the sun don't shine lol yea I'm not going until I get tires and the nitrous. Honestly I wouldn't be surprised if I only got mid 13s, if even that considering I can't launch to save my life yet. But with little tires i have now id just have to be less than half way on the gas to not just spin my way to 16s in the quarter haha only reason I'm ray: I get lucky and hit low 12s is cause I remember that post about a 15 sec buick dropping to 13s off just a 100 shot.. Wishful thinking but hey, why not ?I have faith in our buicks :Brow: No one had giants winning in 2010 but they did so don't tell me they don't come in ! LOL
https://r4---sn-o097znlr.googlevide...7BCB9EA0A3E9EE0E06FA6B82EFED4EDE64378&key=ck2 well there's something a new muscle car cant do!!!!! 4x4 playground but I couldn't help myself :Brow: I know the dirt looks smooth but holy Christ all the truck tread put grooves everywhere. Bouncing like a dam ball and we had to go up a trail to get to this point haha
LOL!! Keep that car on the road for goodness sake! Not saying I have not done the same thing because I have...
Haha I got another video I'm trying to get it on. It was RUFF, I just kept thinking of dukes of hazard :3gears: Haven't had that much fun in a LONG time man. Did some 4x4ing in my dads blazer too, I need a truck :Brow:
We recorded this not on my phone and for whatever reason it's being a pain in the Ss to put up. Il post the other one when I figure out this phone, can you guys even view the video I thought worked ? I can't see it now. if you don't like beating on your buicks I suggest you dont watch viewer discretion is advised :laugh:
