Ok so basically with my setup I need your guys help and opinions on how too squeeze out as much as possible for the best possible quarter mile, assuming I know how to drag. But I know I'll love it and I get OCD about perfection, or at least by doing my part and putting in the time and effort.this is my build: TA284 SP3 .40 over 9:7.1 compression 750 Q jet by ken Heads were completely rebuilt stage 1 valve springs TA big exhaust and intake valves Dual groove cam bearings mallory comp ss all advance is in by 3200 rpm according too guy at shop TA timing cover TA water pump TA oil pump/ with plate and adj oil pressure TA mechanical fuel pump 68-72 rods with arp TA competition headers 3 inch mandrel exhaust 50 series delta flow mufflers rebuilt tranny th350 with all the goods 2500 JW stall converter 8.5 rear with 3.42 true trac posi Arp studs for the heads k&n air filter alum radiator with dual fans msd 6al with rev limiter Ok so thats what it is. I need tires, suspension, nitrous and a tranny shifter. For tires I was thinking about these http://www.americanmuscle.com/mickey-thompson-street-radial-275r15.html And for nitrous this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-70002/ As for suspension I'm not too sure, tranny shifter, I was thinking a b&m shifter. I'm gonna dyno car soon to see where I'm at, if it's lower then 350, then 100 shot of nitrous it is! Oh and I was thinking about one of those 1inch or 2 inch spacers if it's worth anything? I know if I did head porting and changed rods that would be huge but next time i take all this out it's gonna be done right. Roller, rods, 150 shot of nitrous, the works
my opinion is more gear 3.73 or 3.90, more stall, sp3 intake, 3 inch pipes are to big and loosing low end /need X pipe. timing should be 34@ 2600 all in . UMI rear end relocator kit. porting in the 250-280 range.
I still wanted to drive it places, like 300 miles to the desert. Gears ain't happening, porting aint happening, like i sayed as fast as I can go with what I have now. Rods hold me back and so do the gear but thats another issue by the time i take it out I'm praying TA has those alum heads, I'm not throwing more money to port , f that. When I do take it out again il throw a built 2004r so I can go crazy with gear and it won't matter much on highway. Pipes are big but she drives like a bat out of hell so iuno about all that, won't pipes help anyway with the nitrous ? il dabble with distributor I wanted that all in earlier too
The link for the tires doesn't show up on my comp, but, I would use those MT's in 275-50-15 with your 3.42 gear. I have a 3.42 gear also, I went with 275-50-15 MT's as I didn't want to kill my 3.42 ratio anymore with a taller tire. You are talking about the MT ET Street Drag Radials yes? Get total timing in by 2000 or so. 34 deg. seems ok, my car "seems" to like less, like 32 deg. I've been trying to test my theory for my total timing but haven't been able to get back to the track I tried 36 total and 112 race gas, I slowed down. Pump premium for me I guess:TU: I'd leave the suspension stock for now, see where your at. Keep us updated, I love reading and hearing about the 350 on the track and different combos!
Yes those are the tires, got ya on that. Il do the same, forgot about that lowering your gears. That sucks, I do wish I had 3.73s but whatever it's too late now. I just change springs in distributor to some light ones for that right ? Is the crane kit still the one to go to ? Cool :TU: I definitely will, I'm excited. I built the car to have ****s and giggles on the street before I enlist for the infantry, but dragging.. I gota try it ! :3gears:
With that cam, intake, 3" pipes, convertor, and gears that tire is too tall. When it hooks its going to be lazy. Timing all in by the same RPM as your stall speed makes your mechanical advance basically a start retard. I've been experimenting with total timing coming in at higher RPMs like the 3500 yours is set up to.
I'd buy the nitrous system right now. I'm thinking on a chassis dyno you will be in the 250-275 HP range. You'll need the nitrous to hit 350. The exact same build with a 455 probably would hit 350, maybe. 300 on the chassis dyno will get you into the 12's and where in the 12's depends on weight and hook. I agree with those 275-50's. Get them on some 8" wheels. Assuming everything is tuned right your setup without nitrous should make the car a strong 13 second machine. Warm up the tires, pull up to the line, hold the throttle at 1800 rpm, shift at 5700(?), no fuss. Your setup should work great with nitrous because of the big exhaust, single plane intake, and high power ignition. Traction off the line could get tricky with the nitrous. The converter will stall higher with nitrous off the line but 3.42's will make sure you don't run out of rpm at the traps. Remove some timing when you use the nitrous. Hang on!
That combo should be good for 325hp or more. If it was a 455 you could get around 400hp/500lbs with right tune. Get an air/fuel meter.
I have no clue guys, when I say dyno I don't know what to picture. A car sitting on platform, rear wheels sitting on some roller thing and loud exhaust. I have no idea what it has, my dad use to have a 472 caddy and he sayed he thought my car had atleast 350. I haven't done head porting so id be suprised if it did. I just hope torque is over 400 :spank: As far as low end goes, again I have No base of comparison,this is my first car, other then my dads mini which actually gets up to 135 pretty fast lol http://youtu.be/En3IQvgWUyQ but my tires are only 245 so maybe it's cheating when I break em lose at 20mpho No: And whenever I'm at lights no ones tried to race me yet, ricers generally look straight ahead even when their gf's are eyeballing :beers2:
When I put the 3.42 posi it changed the car. I remember I was going to store, 3 lane street. Behind a semi truck, lane to my left was clear and faster, but cars were speeding down. When I got a opening, going 15-20 on - 40 mph road i gunned it. Rear started swinging to right. Counter steered and let off the gas. I remember vividly because i was mad i didn't know that was gonna happen.
I've seen the videos, I firmly believe that's a 325hp+ motor at the crank. You and your dad have done a good job with it. A lot of people build these motors and fail to get the compression where it should be or they over cam the motor for their combination and it runs poorly as a result. There is a ton of good information on here about how to optimize your setup and make more power. I do agree that more gear and a higher stall would really wake that car up. Maybe it's not financially feasible now but if you want to keep driveability a 200-4r overdrive transmission will literally bolt up (some minor work is needed and Ken (techg8) has a good writeup on it) and you could run 3.73s and higher and still cruise at 70 on the highway comfortably. As others have said, getting your advance to come all in at closer to 2000 or 2500 on a street car will only help with getting off the line quicker. Locking your mechanical advance out would just make starting more difficult and isn't necessary at this point. I think if you are planning to run nitrous your fuel system needs a serious upgrade. You will be building a motor in a hurry if you spray the car with the 40 year old ethanol softened fuel system. Aeromotive makes a pretty awesome stealth fuel system that I belive will work in the stepchild Buicks as well as the 70-72 cars. It's pretty much a stock appearing tank with a 340lph pump and internal baffles. It supports almost 1000hp. But understandably if you don't go that route you should at the least drop your tank, clean it up and inspect it and look into your options for a budget friendly fuel system that won't fail on you. I personally am very curious how well a spray plate will work with the sp3 There are a few guys on here that have plenty of nitrous experience and I am sure they would be glad to give you some tips
Thanks man, only reason it came out the way it did was cause I literally read every buick 350 post on here, and Sean personally held my hand through the whole process id be SOL with out Sean's guidance at dang near every turn. yea i was thinking the same, car fires up now after the electrical problem I was having but regardless, everything's new besides my fuel system(besides fuel pump). I didn't like idea of throwing on new carb and fuel pump if its just drawing gas from something old. gonna get a new fuel tank, fuel sender, steel fuel lines. From OPGI, fuel sender is a stock replacement though.. Should I get something better than that ? Not like it came out the factory with a nitrous set up lol I was thinking about this transmission with a 3000 stall. And assuming i did that.. The rear is completely new, I'd hate to just throw some new gears but if I did, is it as simple as just getting a whole new unit and putting it in? Or is it where you gota get the lines perfectly in the middle? After you paint the teeth or whatever, doubt it be just plug and play right ? might slap on the sp3 today or if beer gets in the way il do it tomorrow for sure. Il post vid of how she's purring and what not. Sounds way different to me though just putting on that msd box.Might have to cut my hood too and just leave air filter poking out and for the record, only thing my dad did was remind me how much money I saved was going down the drain when I could have just bought a Chevy crate and "called err good, At half the price." I didn't mean my dad gave me his mini, just when I've bin in it and he's bounced off whatever chip was blocking him from going north of 135 lol
I recommend extreme automatics for the 2004r. You can have a Trans built for nitrous and 800lbft for 1700
Guys quick! What size fitting do I need too go from carb to my mechanical fuel pump, trying to handle intake today. Right now I have the original steel fuel line from original fuel pump to carb on stock intake. It's new I bought it with everything else, but I don't think I can bend it to make up an inch
It was a pain to start, had to get it hot before it just fired up. Need to adjust, il post vid tomorrow. I like how it sounds:grin:, don't mind all the wires. Looks like hell but I know what all of em are for lol
