I might consider to Sniper Efi the thing as well. HOLLEY sometimes sells the units as "refurbished" so I am looking for a good deal. I have gotten a surge thanks with a Bosch 044 fps already that easily mounts behind the Dr. Side Headlight. That's a easy way to sort the EFI fuel system. The mechanical pump feeds the surgetank-from surge tank to EFi
short update: i had issues registering the truck here in TX since there seems to be a duplicate title somewhere even though i have the original. So after alot of back and forth i have to get a Bonded title which is a PITA. On another note i test drove the truck after suspension adjustments and the Fuel pump literally felt out of the timing cover. i noticed the bolt holes where "used" when assembling the motor, so i installed the FP with some locktite. Obviously it was worst than i thought. I tried back and forth to re install it and i noticed the Lever on the FP had stress cracks so i simply dont trust the timing cover bolts /mounting holes to hold it secure in place, so i decided i simply switch to a Electrical pump and block the FP access hole. I remembered that a BBC block off plate will fit so i spend 8$ over 35$ for a BBB blockoff plate. i used a Carter pump with 4.5-8psi of Fuel pressure i set it up with a check valve so its "vapor lock friendly + i have a vented Cap that should be fine for hot TX days. i wanted to keep it simple and easy maintainable.
Yeah, people strip out the mounting holes when they fail to line the eccentric up, and fight the pump spring when bolting it in. Heli-coil is the solution.
Yes that's probably what happend, since the cover is on a running engine I didn't wanted to helicoil and risk getting shavings in the pan. Electric pump works well. The carter is not to loud mounted under the bed. Can't hear over the 2.5 in exhaust/glasspacks lol + I definitely freed up 1/4 of a horsepower ahhaha
Yes, you have to take the cover off to helicoil it. I'm sure the electric pump will work. The real test would be when you get on it, and demand for fuel is at a maximum. I would set up a temporary fuel pressure gauge you can tape to the windshield if you want to see if the pump will keep up.
I've got a decent front cover if you need it. I sold my Square body and would love to find a 70-72 1/2 ton lwb. Yours is awesome.
Yes i got a cheap in line gauge to monitor pressure, i dont wanted to go excessive with a Holley blue etc. they are really loud , i thinkk the carter is not as loud and i wanted to keep it clean . after all its a stock'ish 455 so it should be fine.
they getting expensive , at least here in TX especially short bed trucks. Mine was a LWB and i converted it to SWB . 1st time , it was a lot of work but nothing very difficult. figuring out the BBB placement / mounting was more of a headache. If you get a &3+ Square body you have the right frame mounts already to drop in the 455. the 67-72 OEM mounts where a headache so i took Square body frame mounts
well today i found that the Electric FP SUUUUCKS. it has a huge problem lifting the fuel in the pickup (arround 10 in). Once it "drops" into the Fuel pump sitting below the tank it will push it to the carb but the "lift" of the pickup is a real restriction. So nice try , but i guess i have to fix the timing cover( helicoil) the FP bolt holes.
You could always get one of those kits to relocate the fuel tank to the back of the truck, under the bed.
Super easy fix on a c10,...install a AN bung and poo hole in the floor,.....use a holley mat as fuel slosh is huge problem with those tanks,..it will bottom feed perfect
i got a new OEM tank already i was thinking about the relocation tank before but simply didnt wanted to mess with the OEM setup. I got a new Carter M6744 today and i tapped the timing cover already... so i go back OEM setup, which is also good to feed a surge tank if i ever want to go EFI. Thats how i have it on my 68 GS Update: Shes back running
So im still tuning the Qjet ... if the AFR gauge is correct i am running lean so i adjusted the mixture screws , i forgot how annoying this can be (EFI comfort) lol. I am wondering if anybody ever used a Micro switch for the TH400 Kickdown signal? It should work, a Nitrous WOT switch is nothing different so i went ahead with a 3$ micro switch, i get a 12v form the Fuse pannel (yellow) + going to the Th400 & the NOP port on the Micro switch . The black wire = ground goes to the COM port on the Micro switch. Its physically triggered by the carb going WOT and the carb linkage hits/triggers the Switch. What port on the TH400 needs the 12v horizontal /vertical? (does it even matter?)
Vertical spade on the THM400 is kick down. Horizontal is either switch pitch or emissions pressure switch for TCS. What is you A/F gauge reading that you think is lean?
So i do not need the Horizonatal spade at all? should i simply ground the black wire? i am arround 17-18 when normal driving. when punching it it will come down to the 14 i am looking for, i set it first for 12 ish at idle but obviously it was cold and warmed up during the day then it got leaner and leaner
No, don't connect anything to the horizontal spade. It isn't needed. Yes, that is lean. The carburetor is either jetted wrong or you have a vacuum leak.
