Yar here we go I forget everyone doesnt know my car Engine 72 350 bored .30 over 10:1 compression comp 268h cam lifters push rod and springs mallory unilite dizzy and ignition box 140 amp alternator and optima red top battery 650 cmf holley q-jet replacement carb and Ta intake 3 angle valve job and mild porting on the heads and intake my shop teacher didnt want me to do too much and screw em up. Trans Full rebuild B&M transkit built to the drag specs deep pan and tranny cooler B&M sprag new thrust washers planetary gears and all the that. Suspension New summit disc brake kit 1" drop spindles new moroso springs rear end some napa air shocks gm clutch type posi unit with yukon 3.73 and a rebuild kit from monzaz Tires BFG radials 235/60R15 on some american raceing rims
Heres the thread with a vid of my car before I did the rear end http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=172893&highlight=video+car
Stock torque converter? If not then that is the next thing I would upgrade before going after the No Hop bars.
From this thread. Funny, I read that one right before yours.... http://v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=177402
tuck your tail between your legs for now and stay away from the mustang.....then build a sweat big block and crush him when he's not expecting it!:laugh:
Presumably you are tuned optimium to your build, and fuel delivery system is dialed in, perhaps it is time to explore your converter choice and definately the rear suspension to get the power to the ground, and lose the wheel hop. Thank you for fighting for me and my family :TU: MarkO
blah **** I go to school with him every day haha I mean he is a good friend of mine we got our ASE certs and our smog licenses together so Im allways going to see his gay ass cobra and here about it till we graduate =(
No problem man someone has to do it and thanks everyone on this site for the info. So im thinking a new carb I mean the one I have isnt the best for my setup I have been told
I look at fuel delivery here too. Perhaps you held back on the head work? What do you read from o-scope and exhaust analyzer? BTW, you will have your hands full with that 'stang on the track and street in full dress, but, if you tune your build you should be able to hold your own stop light to stop light, but do the math, power to weight ratio is not in your favor In the class deapartment, you smoke that 'stang just sitting in the parking lot:beer
Hahahah Yea I wanted to go way more on the heads but my shop teacher wouldnt let me like I said. I know his car is waay lighter but I have dreams!What do you mean exhaust analzyer like a 5 gas or???
If your changing the carb, I highly recommend buying new. The only reason people sell old carbs is that they didn't work!!!
dude,your combo aint gonna cut it. just not enough there. loose the carb. something bigger. 650 not enough. need a stall 2600 2800.gears are good. engine is good for maybe 325 -345 at flywheel. i have sim build, but BIGGER car. i run mid 14.60s.consider NOS for a min. power on demand, when you want it. a little tuning, with a 100 shot, you might hang with the rustang. remember, the slower the car the more NOS picks up. you get a 500 horse monster, 100 shot is got for tenths. 100 shot on your car COUDL give you a second, possibly more. tuning tuning:3gears: :3gears:
aww man! your car was hopping? i wish mine would sucks that you lost, i personally hate mustangs... but hopefully you get everything resolved and sooner or later show that cobra some nice buick taillights
oh i just read: LOOSE AIR SHOCKS. i dont care what anyone says, theres you wheel hop. you really dont make enough power to warrant anti hop bars. i have NEVER had that issue with my buick. ever. i street race, opps i mean have hard acceleration ALL the time, no issues.:TU:
Yea thats the theme tonight bigger carb for now.Any suggestions get a good tuned q-jet or like a 850 holley double pumper?
Agreed.Lose the air shocks and get a good set of gas shocks then stuff both rear springs with air bags. around 12 lbs in each side will work.
