Yes for sure I am doing a front and mid plate before the new engine goes in.. that reminds me I need to order them from Steve Reynolds...
I made my own front plate mount. Also have the factory mounts in place. It does not move even during WOT trans brake launches on a well preped track.
That is good info, I would love to skip doing the mid mount however with my passenger side turbo piping I can only run a front plate on the drivers side and I want to eliminate the drivers side engine mount as I think it is distorting the block cylinder when it torques over... I will make my own front mount and buy the mid plate from Steve... How much torque is your engine making? Pics of the front mount?
I had my engine built twice and the second time my told me I needed motor mounts. I tried to buy new ones but was unsuccessful, had to get them revulcanized for three hundred dollars. So to protect my mounts I added a torque strap
A chain on a street driven car with any driven miles will stretch, requiring you to twist frequently to take up the slack. Too much slack hits the frame harder (which is more of a problem on F bodies), and takes a toll on the suspension and frame for that side of the vehicle. You will notice and replace those items more frequently. Plate up front for starters is the best way to minimize abuse. If a link is used, I'd consider some poly bushings to ease the hit. If it's a weekend cruiser, you'll probably never see a problem. If it's a 550-600hp+ daily with 150k miles planned, you will go through some parts.
These were taken during the mock up. I fine tuned them a bit. This engine made just over 700lb Tq on the dyno bit. This engine made just over 700lb Tq on the dyno.
I made this set-up 25 years ago and it's still working great. It has a heim joint at top and a standard rod eye at the bottom. We tapped opposite threads into the stainless steel center sleeve so adjustment can be made without removing anything. This limiter still allows me to run OEM rubber engine mounts to take up all the vibration yet holds the engine back when I "Give It The Beans". While at idle in gear with the TA 308s cam you could still see the engine movement, .... so nothing was binding. If someone wanted to they could change out the lower mount with a polyurethane rod end to soften it up a bit up if needed. One note : The minute I added this torque limiter the whole car launched more violent. I immediately had to re-tune the chassis. The link style rear sway bar set-ups and re- installing the front bar are the answer to that issue. Never been a fan of chains for the reasons mentioned in earlier posts, especially if its installed as per the photos on eBay where the lower eyelet is attached to the front of the upper control arm shaft, ..... to me if you have enough power that spells trouble. Larry
I have some funky front exit headers on there and thats why the L plate is cut like it is.Unless your piping is taking up the entire area you could probably make it work. I've heard that solid mounts will eventually rip the side of the engine block out. The casting is thin in that area around the mount.
Does anyone make them though,and if so,who? I would like to get a set. Are the Tamahak blocks any better in that area for solid mounts? Either stick block or Tamahak,I would not run them alone.
I agree with Steve and would steer clear of solid mounts for the reasons stated but if you can't find what you're looking for, ... It wouldn't be that difficult to fab up a set based on your original rubber ones. Not much to a solid mount. Race guys usually opt out of traditional engine mounts as the thinner blocks can distort cylinder walls when over stressed. Ahhh there I go again splitting hairs! Larry
Yes I am pretty sure I was distorting the block at the engine mount on my engine.. I am going to go to this mid mount that goes between the engine and trans to help keep things from rotating so badly. SRE "Steve Reynolds" sent me this pic, as he sells them... 0.120" thick. And then either a full front mount or keep the factory mounts and add a nice Heim joint setup on the drivers side head like Larry posted above.
