Torque strap

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by Kenneth Willis, Nov 4, 2017.

  1. Guy Parquette

    Guy Parquette Platinum Level Contributor

    Ok, that was easier than i thought to find them.

    Looks to be tig welded.

    IMG_20171126_123523.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2017
  2. Guy Parquette

    Guy Parquette Platinum Level Contributor

    IMG_20171126_123445.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  3. Guy Parquette

    Guy Parquette Platinum Level Contributor

  4. Guy Parquette

    Guy Parquette Platinum Level Contributor

  5. BrianTrick

    BrianTrick Brian Trick

    Nice and simple. Let me know if you want to sell them.
     
  6. Guy Parquette

    Guy Parquette Platinum Level Contributor

    Sorry Brian, completely forgot about this thread.
    $75.00 shipped. Let me know!
     
  7. BrianTrick

    BrianTrick Brian Trick

    I will take them. Just let me know how you want paid.
     
  8. moleary

    moleary GOD Bless America

     
  9. moleary

    moleary GOD Bless America

    I was just in the workshop laying out a set up like this now the 'PS is off...seems like the easiest, works right and least cost option.
     
  10. moleary

    moleary GOD Bless America

  11. Schurkey

    Schurkey Silver Level contributor

    Those torque straps are for Mopar A, B, and E bodies...not GM A, B, and E.
     
  12. Marv Marksberry

    Marv Marksberry Well-Known Member

    4CB80287-94A4-43A5-ACFA-6A71526F6D7E.jpeg

    This is how I did it on my 70 GS
    Marv.
     
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  13. moleary

    moleary GOD Bless America

    Yes those are For the mopars. I am looking at how you did it and like that
     
  14. Marv Marksberry

    Marv Marksberry Well-Known Member

    D4E04EB8-69F1-4CEA-B3F7-BFD722C7F2C9.jpeg

    And if you look at my firewall, you will notice that I copied something.
     
  15. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Super Moderator Staff Member

    Larry,

    Where is the bottom part of this limited affixed to?
     
  16. Bluzilla

    Bluzilla a.k.a. "THE DOCTOR"

    Brett, I have the lower end attached to two tabs that I welded to the frame, .... roughly in the same location as Marv's.
    I kept my geometry just shy of perpendicular so as to articulate with the engine movement, especially at idle where the 308s does it's best to let you know it's there. I accomplished that by fabricating the aluminum plate to extend to the outside of the cylinder head.

    Larry
     
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  17. Marv Marksberry

    Marv Marksberry Well-Known Member

    ABE2DFB3-B761-461D-B549-26F7BAE01EDC.jpeg
    I have recently put my motor back in the GS. I made a few changes and remade the torque strap attach plate out of aluminum. As my GS is a 4-speed, I don’t want the motor moving around on me during hard shifts.
     
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  18. Brett Slater

    Brett Slater Super Moderator Staff Member

    I wondering if there's a way to utilize a similar setup without fabricating a bracket that needs to be welded to the frame?
     
  19. Schurkey

    Schurkey Silver Level contributor

    Thousands of years ago, GM handled a safety recall for failing motor mounts.

    Their solution was (of course) not to replace the defective mounts, but to wrap a cable around the control arm cross-shaft, and bolt it to the engine using a bracket held on with the exhaust manifold bolts. This required a bracket at the engine, perhaps two longer exhaust manifold bolts, and a cable assembly.

    Simple, cheap, and easy enough to fabricate.
     
  20. Guy Parquette

    Guy Parquette Platinum Level Contributor

    I have that kit from Buick. NOS in my tool box at my shop. Going to install it on the Reynolds’s car. Although the bracket that mounts to the head will have to be modified somewhat in my case. Because of the STG2 heads.
    Could get the part# from the package Buick sent it in, but will be a couple months…
    My race car is done exactly like some of the posts above with the hiem joints with the tab welded to the frame
     
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