I was just in the workshop laying out a set up like this now the 'PS is off...seems like the easiest, works right and least cost option.
found this searching the web. Local here I am going to pay them a visit and see what they have http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/TorqueStraps.html#head2
Brett, I have the lower end attached to two tabs that I welded to the frame, .... roughly in the same location as Marv's. I kept my geometry just shy of perpendicular so as to articulate with the engine movement, especially at idle where the 308s does it's best to let you know it's there. I accomplished that by fabricating the aluminum plate to extend to the outside of the cylinder head. Larry
I have recently put my motor back in the GS. I made a few changes and remade the torque strap attach plate out of aluminum. As my GS is a 4-speed, I don’t want the motor moving around on me during hard shifts.
I wondering if there's a way to utilize a similar setup without fabricating a bracket that needs to be welded to the frame?
Thousands of years ago, GM handled a safety recall for failing motor mounts. Their solution was (of course) not to replace the defective mounts, but to wrap a cable around the control arm cross-shaft, and bolt it to the engine using a bracket held on with the exhaust manifold bolts. This required a bracket at the engine, perhaps two longer exhaust manifold bolts, and a cable assembly. Simple, cheap, and easy enough to fabricate.
I have that kit from Buick. NOS in my tool box at my shop. Going to install it on the Reynolds’s car. Although the bracket that mounts to the head will have to be modified somewhat in my case. Because of the STG2 heads. Could get the part# from the package Buick sent it in, but will be a couple months… My race car is done exactly like some of the posts above with the hiem joints with the tab welded to the frame