If you had the block align bored, the crank will sit higher up in the block and if so, the balancer might be slightly hitting the hole in the front cover. I just took a dremel with a fine stone and removed the smallest bit from the top half of the hole in the cover and mine slid on. Also, look at the leading edge of the balancer and crank snout. If there are any burrs there, you want to smooth those out (a fine file works well).
Never played with one myself, but I was under the impression that the SFI aftermarket balancers WERE a press fit... o No:
Yes, mine was but we did hone it slightly because it was a little too snug for our liking. I believe stock ones are push on though. Steve
it is an sfi fancy balancer. ill just pick up the tool for puting it on. any preference in the tool, or are they all basically the same? it was aligned for the girdle, so maybe it is hitting, did you shave the cover or the seal? thanks
Well, bought the installer today for the harmonic balancer (finally...) was playing with the DCR calculator and thought i would ask you guys what you think. If i leave it alone (advanced aproximately 3.25 degrees) my dcr is 7.88. If i advance it to the next position (104.75) my dcr goes up to 8.03. Is it worth it? Still aiming for the stars at over 700 hp. (although have already planned for a 100hp spray because ive been told we wont make 750 natty) its not that hard, and i might as well do it for the practice, pistons are notched so clearance shouldnt be a problem. thats a .15 increase in compression, im up for doing it even if the gains are in the single hp digits, theyre gains :grin: Thanks
Nothing wrong with playing with cam degree. Just keep in mind as you advance it the intake valves will get closer to the piston and as you retard the exhaust valves will be closer. Did you already check piston-to-valve clearance straight up? Devon
havent checked, as we dont have what we need (heads mainly, but no pushrods either, unless we just stick in the stockers.) the pistons have some pretty big valve reliefs, so i dont think i should have a problem there. BUt power wise, is that .15 extra compression worth much? Advancing the cam shifts the powerband 100 rpm per degree lower right? because i want to limit the rpm lower than what i wanted to earlier, which was 6500 (meaning limited around 6700) but now i think ill limit it at 6300 to be safer. thanks
.15 extra compression? I don't think you'ld be able to measure any difference in power but thats just IMHO. Also, The instructions that came with my Romac balancer said it would be an interference fit and a installation tool would be needed. I used a long bolt I had and some spacers and just used that. Free and worked great. I'll have to make another tool if I ever have to pull it though.
yeah, but i dont know if .15 points of dynamic compression is the same as .15 of static. I was thinking of that, but i bought the tool to have it for later, we plan on building more :TU:
It's not that easy to issue a rule of thumb like that with DCR. A brief, long-haired explanation, copied from Wikipedia: Devon
steven, From what I have read it seems that for every 4 degrees of advance there is roughly a change of 200 RPM in the power band. Steve
im guessing downwards shift. Thats good, less rpm i will have to go through. Anyone have a clue on the power though? thanks
Ok, got a little update. Advanced the cam forward 2 more degrees (from the 2A slot (106.75 LC) to 4A slot (104.75 LC), gving me an extra .15 dcr, which bumps me over 8) Set the thrust bearing, but not sure if its all the way. I loosened everything, pried it rearward, and pried it forward also, using an assisting bar i made out of 4 ft of tubing, gave it a slight tab with a deadblow hammer to make sure it was all the way there, moved it forward a little, it went from offset to the rear to being about center, is that about right? Still plan to check the forward-rearward movement of the crank. Also installed the harmonic balancer, attached a few pictures of it for you to check, it got really tight (and i mean really tight) so this is as far as i went. Look good? o No: Im thinking the double roller timing chain is what offset it out, and ill try to tighten it more (bolt calls for more than 200 ft lbs) and see how it goes. And how am i supposed to get to 200 foot pounds on that bolt? No compressor (yet) On a funner note, im looking into buying a 430 from here on the board, that way i can at least drive the car, it sitting there is really getting to me. :3gears: :spank: Thanks
Steven, Doesn't look like the balancer is fully installed...if the pan is off, take a look at the end of the balancer, the oil slinger, and the front of the crank sprocket, they should be snugged together. If that's a new TA cover, the back of the balancer ring will probably be just touching one of the screw bosses and you'll have to take the balancer back off to clearance the boss. It sometimes takes a little more torque than you'd expect to get the balancer fully installed...might try a little antisieze on the crank snout if you haven't already.
I covered it in tons of oil. And would the double roller timing chain be a reason why it sticks out more, because the sprocket is thicker? The oil pan is on, but i can take the installer off and see if the inside of the balancer is against the front of the crank snout o No: Or i can remove the oil pan, not too hard, just messy. Thanks :TU:
Didnt check on that, but im sure it will be fine. Got a couple orders in recently, so now its time for another few questions. The first, ignore my stupidity, the roller rockers had bolts in them already, and nuts on the other side (im assuming to keep the bolts from falling out during shipping). Does the nut have any place in installation, or do i just remove them and screw the shafts down? Im planning on replacing them with studs, but i need to put them on for the pushrod measuring. Also, for the four extra stage 2 head bolts that were drilled, what are you doing to seal those holes, as they go into the cooling passages? Thanks
Yes, remove them and bolt the shafts down. I used permatex ultra black. No leaks so far, about 2000 miles and 7 months.
i had permatext water blue or something of the sort. I used a small screw driver (very small) to put some in the holes, made sure it was in the threads, then practically filled the top of the hole, filled the threads and a little more on the studs, and screwed them in. I think that should about do. Bolted the shafts down snug, slid the heads on and (without torquing them) checked pushrod length. I measured (measuring tape :/) i need about 9.470 without torque (with correct cold lash), so maybe 9.45 or 9.40 for i when it is torqued? i took a few pictures, but still havent downloaded them to the computer. thanks for all the help
Here are a couple pictures of what we have recently done. Plugged the oil holes on both banks of the block (since it was assembled already, tapped the block upside down ou: so no metal would fall down, then cleaned thoroughly) Put the head studs in, slid the heads on (without torque) and measured the pushrods, they came out to be around 9.440, so with crush maybe the stock size or a tad longer, i was thinking 9.400 would be sufficient. We still need to order the valley pan from AMP, and pushrods, and that will allow us to seal off the motor. from there it would be headers, carburetor, fuel system, cooling system and this can be running again. It seems very straightforward, but can someone direct me to a guide on how to install the pushrods ou:
