Time for Engine Assembly

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by GRIMM, Jan 25, 2007.

  1. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Looking good, Steven. You might want to consider performing cam break-in with the outer valve springs only. It's easier on a new cam rather than hitting it with max spring pressure all at once.

    Devon
     
  2. 70aqua_custom

    70aqua_custom Well-Known Member

    I drop them all in the holes and check by feel that they're seated in the lifters. Then I put the rocker shaft assembly in place while carefully locating all of the pushrods in their respective cups. When they're all in place I tighten the four rocker shaft fasteners. I tighten each one a little at a time so the shaft isn't stressed too much in any direction. Then I double check that the pushrods are properly seated and adjust the valves.

    I agree with Devon on the inner springs, that's standard practice.
     
  3. cray1801

    cray1801 Too much is just right.

    Steven, if you will be running nitrous you may want a DCR in the 7.6 range and not over 8.0 as you mentioned. Also you can loosen the cam bolts and tweek the gear CW or CCW and get a small change in cam position at each keyed position (due gears clearance holes).
     
  4. GRIMM

    GRIMM Well-Known Member

    Yes, i forgot to mention about the valve springs, we still need to buy a spring compressor and take the inner springs out.

    Thanks for the tip on installing the pushrods, that sounds like a plan.

    As for the DCR, nitrour will be run (only a 75 shot), and it will be triggered via an rpm activated switch, which will also activate a timing retard.

    Should i still reduce the DCR, because i measures 7.85 and bumped it up to 8.0 by advancing the cam 2 more, but as a last minute plan the heads were cut to raise the compression to 11:1, so now the DCR will be around 8.2 i assume.

    Plans were to mic race gas in with pump gas, not sure to which octane yet.

    Hopefully ordering the pushrods and removal tool tomorrow, any suggestions on length, besides the 9.4 i am guessing at?
     
  5. GRIMM

    GRIMM Well-Known Member

    So far the engine is mostly together, the top end is all set up and sealed (pushrods arent adjusted yet, need to remove the inner springs still)

    The oil pan is on, but not sealed, i still need to finish up on that. I guess il just using the gasket and a load or rtv?

    Torque converter is on its way, installed the planetary shield on the transmission, flexplate shield is ready to go on when i get the engine on the hoist.

    Alternator and starter are also in the works.

    Needing to get a carb and various under-hood parts, then it will be set. But it looks like ill be able to drop the engine in pretty soon.

    I was wondering, since i read it on a board somewhere; i wanted to check to make sure the cam timing was correct (one last check to be completely sure), but i would need to put pressure on the cam lobes and rotate it, wiping off some of the moly lube. I think i would use the oil pump prime tool also, so there is oil circulating in the engine and bearings when i spin it.

    Is that a bad idea, or would it be possible?

    Thanks
     
  6. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Anybody hear anything about Steven's Wildcat project? Just kinda evaporated into the twilight zone...

    Devon
     
  7. RG67BEAST

    RG67BEAST Platinum Level Contributor

    Last post 12/21/08. Seemed like he had a good build going with that block. Very strange. I hope all is well.
    Ray
     

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