Swap Questions

Uh-oh, I have some bad news...today, I found out that the fuel pump on the 350 is different than the one on my V6 that came out of the car. What will I have to do now? I looked to check the parts numbers on autozone and both the 350 and the v6 had the same numbers, but obviously they are different pumps. I don't know what to do now. :ball:

 

Whats wrong with the one from the 350? Can you compare the pumps yourself?

 

The 350 has 2 feeds on it and the V6 only has one feed.(or inlets, whatever you want to call it!) So I am not sure what that means or actually even what I will have to do as far as either switching pumps, getting a different one, etc. o No:

 

By any chance did you post that wrong? Should be the V-6 has two ports and the older 350 will have only one.

 

I don't think I did, but just in case I will have to re-check it to make sure. In any case, what will I have to do in order to make things work? Could I swap the V6 one onto the V8 to make it work, or will the V6 have a less GPH(Gallons Per Hour)/or feeding capacity than the V8 requires?

Any help would be very helpful and appreciated!!!

Thanks!

 

Oh, and they both are 2 barrel carb. motors.

 

the pumps should work on either motor,is your car an air cond car?
the second port is a return that was on most ac cars only, the v6 pump should work.volume should be ok with a mild engine and no return will make all the fuel it pumps avail to engine
andy

 

Thanks Andy, I was confusing myself there for awhile! ou: It's pretty easy to get confused when you're "doing it yourself" for the first time, eh?

Once again, thanks! :Comp:

 

Keep on asking when ya have trouble!!

 

not a hard swap and it helps to get info from those who have run
into all the same problems when they did their swap. :3gears:
andy

 

For the alternator, the -12 indicates that the ouput connector is at the 12 o'clock position when viewed from the rear. So, a -9 or -09 would indicate the 9 o'clock position, -3 the three o'clock position. If it's an issue, it's easy for an auto electric place to move the rear case around.

For more info: http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/delcoremy.shtml

Cheers,
JMC

 

Got a question...I have heard the term "torque strap" before, and I haven't ever gotten to the conclusion of what it exactly means. Can someone please help clarify what it means to "torque strap" a motor, please tell how you do it and what materials are needed to do it with. In fact, someone might have mentioned "torque strapping" my motor in this exact thread, but I don't feel like looking through all the replies for it, so can someone help me out? I brought this question up mainly because someone at school told me I may have to end up doing that to my motor since I am using stock v6 mounts to hold down a 350. Didn't have the time to ask him what he meant by that. ou:

Thanks! :Comp:

 

ttt

 

Im not sure what it is but it looks like its just to keep the vibrations to a minimum. Looks like mini shock absorbers................HERE I googled it to get that. Or you could get some nice hevy duty chain and bolt one part to you motor and another to your frame therby preventing the motor from moving. The worst thing I could think of happening is the fan eating a shroud. Whatever, someone with more knowledge should chime in. Goodluck! :TU:

 

Its just a way to keep the motor from rocking so much side to side as it revs up. I've seen aftermarket straps as well as homemade set ups using everything from rubber to chain used.

 

Thanks for the replies! :TU: I am trying to come up w/ a solution as to how I really want to "securely" hold the 350 in place. That 350 has much more power and torque than the V6 that I pulled out did, and I am trying to figure out what I should do as far as mounting the motor to the frame, or at least to make sure the motor don't fly up out of the hood while im driving it. ou:

 

Wow cody! I don't think you have anything to worry about.

Remember that the motor is bolted to the trans and the trans is bolted up under the crossmember. I've seen mounts split apart and the motor does not jump out of the hood.

Just buy new stock mounts and make sure you torque everything up properly.

If you want to be cautious then add a driveshaft loop. If you've ever seen a driveshaft hit the ground and come up on the floor of a car then you wouldn't go without one. I've seen car written off from this! I always use a loop or even two.

 

Thanks Sean! Will do! :Comp:

 

We turbo buick guys torque strap our motors all the time, it's to prevent the motor from twisting and tearing the driver's side motor mount. The way we do it is: we get an I-bolt and nut from the hardware store (biggest, beefiest one they have) that's long enough to go through the alternator top mounting hole. then, we get a medium-duty ratcheting tie down (also hardware store) and put one hook into a hole in the frame just before the upper suspension arm. the other end goes into the i-bolt, then you just ratchet it down till it's snug... usually that's plenty. :TU: