Street Torque Converter Preference

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by LARRY70GS, Jan 27, 2014.

  1. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Larry,

    I'm with you on the the variable pitch converter being too loose when leaving from a casual stop when in high stall, you might want to consider manual control in a situation like that, even to look at the original intent for the variable pitch.

    From a stop sign, I'm in high stall until I push the pedal, then low stall is actuated as soon as I accelerate. When I leave the stop the transition to low stall is really smooth, so much that even with the big cam, the car moves at part throttle with no problem and doesn't lug down at all.

    In other words, off idle acceleration doesn't need to stay loose with the VP converter. Use the moment of transition from high to low stall to your advantage when driving. I don't know if you have that kind of flexibility with your setup, I wouldn't trade the switch at my hand for anything (unless I was a competitive drag racer).

    Devon
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2014
  2. No Lift

    No Lift Platinum Level Contributor

    Hey Larry, maybe you can place an addendum to this thread title since it has been hijacked into an "11/12 Second Combos" and "Critique Larry's Combo" thread:

    Street Torque Converter Preference(If "Larry's engine" is in your reply or you're not talking about converters please stop talking.) :grin:
     
  3. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Devon,
    It isn't that the car lugs down with the converter in low stall, it doesn't, but low stall is a bit too low if you moderately push the pedal down. I have Bruce Roe's SP control box, and as soon as I hit 4" of vacuum, it goes back to high stall, and then look out. The box works really well. If I lift, it goes right back to low stall. If I keep my foot down, there is a vacuum timer that will time out to low stall. For just regular driving around, low stall is fine.

    I think the SP converter is probably costing me track performance because of it's weight, but also because it's dragging the engine down at the shifts more than a higher stall fixed pitch would. (higher 6K shifts should help that some). One of the things I need to try at the track is leaving it in high stall for the entire run, or at least a longer duration of the run. Right now, I have it on for 2 seconds at launch. Not sure if that will help, but I need to try it. Everything I have ever read says that leaving the converter in hi stall for the entire run makes for lower trap speeds, but I need to try that
     
  4. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Larry,

    Thanks for more info on the timer. I was thinking about your previous comment "the high stall is too high for regular stop and go. The low stall is a bit too low. I'd really like something in between if I can get it." which is why I emphasized how much I like the function of the OEM switch that goes to low stall as soon as the pedal is depressed coupled with a manual switch to help out when a little more stall comes in handy in casual driving.

    You could always keep a manual switch handy in parallel to the timer, that wouldn't be tough to wire. I'd even suggest bypassing the timer and take the car for some stop and go cruising just using the manual switch at your whim to see what you think. Of course no toggle switch, I'm talking about a momentary switch "normally open" or "NO" for this.

    I'm guessing you may have tried the manual switch before by itself, so maybe this is moot, but I thought I'd throw the suggestion your way. Having high stall at my fingertip is very useful for me when driving around, cruising, parking, what have you.

    As far as track results, my experience says low stall after about two seconds is best. High stall for the whole run got me the same mph, but longer elapsed times.

    Devon
     
  5. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Thanks Devon,
    Yes, I have tried a momentary switch, and it has some advantages. I really like Bruce's control box. You just need to adjust it some for your preferences. As I have posted elsewhere, the box as it came from Bruce did not fit my needs 100%, but Bruce was great about working with me. The box has 3 timers and a vacuum switch. The timers are brake switch timer, vacuum timer, and maximum throttle timer. My problem was the brake timer could not be adjusted below the minimum value of 3.2 seconds. The high stall would stay on that long coming off a traffic light. I asked Bruce to modify it so that it went to low stall as soon as you released the brake. That way, it worked just as the stock switch pitch worked, hi stall with brake on, low stall off idle, and the vacuum switch put it back to hi stall at 4" of vacuum. I have my box adjusted so that as soon as vacuum returns above 4", you get low stall. The vacuum timer will also get you low stall at sustained low vacuum. Then there is the maximum throttle timer that is activated off the kick down gas pedal switch. That over rides everything else and allows you to set hi stall time for drag racing.
     

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