Does the -1.5 agree with the card? Are you looking at the right number,on the wheel for your closing number?
When the degree wheel reads 0 the #1 piston is at the top and the timing marks line up. so it should not be 180 off. The cam card says intake opens at -1 BTDC. Intake duration on cam card states 218. The number I got was 320.
I am reading off the larger numbers. After looking back it seems that I use the large numbers to find TDC and the smaller ones for actual degreeing?
Usually centerline uses large or outside, numbers and valve timing uses smaller or inside or different colors. The wheel should tell you.
After using the correct numbers I came out with -1 degree open at .05 lift, and 29 degrees closing at .05 lift. Calculations say the cam is at 208 duration which the cam card calls for 218. And position at 105 degrees which cam card calls for 106 for 4 degrees advance. so if I'm correct the cam is ground 5 degrees advanced already. Correct? how should I go about this? Also just to check and make sure: when measuring closing lift, the dial spins several times till it reaches max lift which comes out at some number. Do I go .05 down from that number or .05 back up from the bottom on the other side.
Planning to call TA tomorrow to see what I should do about this. Anyone else have advice? The large difference in duration does not seem to be good. and that the Intake is closing 10 degrees off what the cam card states.
maybe but look at the amount of knowledgeable people trying to help him learn this process. read posts like this and learn from them and the job will be easier as you will understand it as you do it
If I would have listened to everyone on here and not been so cheap, the cam swap would have been a lot quicker and easier. Currently the cam is in straight up with about 3 degree advance built into it. talked with TA and figured that all out. heads came back great. got everything in and running and still having the exact same issue. Did a compression test and found that 2 cylinders were making only about 20psi. Found out it is the rockers/shaft. When they are loosened up just enough the cylinder will make 150psi. but when tight it will make none when the others will. This is only with 2 cylinders. Is this from worn out rockers/shafts? The heads were milled .03 but the valves looked to have been cut down to compensate also.
That sounds like your push rods are too long. You are holding valves open. I would get a set of adjustable push rods and set each valve separately.
That is what I was thinking also but the rockers and shafts are all original and the shafts seam to have some grooves from the rockers. could it possibly be both? Also is it safe to use adjustable pushrods from TA all the time? I thought that were on for checking to get correct sizes but I see they sell packs of 16.
I can see worn rockers making noise, but not holding the valves open. My first engine used adjustable push rods. I never had a problem with them.
I see the arms and retainers on rockauto.com, but not the shafts. That isn't your most pressing problem. Obviously, the valves are being held open on those 2 cylinders. Are the valve tip heights even? Put a straight edge across the tips I'd get the adjustable push rods.
yes they are all even. The heads just got back from a valve job, new hardened seats, new guides and milled .030. I will look into getting some adjustables
Just ordered TA's set of 5/16 adjustable pushrods. This should solve the problem. Will most likely be getting a new set of rockers and shafts as well in the near future.
Not much is happening with the car currently. I received the new pushrods and I also bought a new set of stamped steel rockers to replace the aluminum ones that chattered a lot. Got everything installed and set properly. Still having some type of tuning issue. At 900RPM I seem to have a steady 15" of vacuum but at 750 I only get about 13" and these are with an initial timing of 14 degrees. Seems a bit low for vacuum. I tested all vacuum ports and hoses. found a leak at the transmission port but after I plugged it, the readings stayed the same. I can let it leak then plug it with my finger and it will jump to about 16" but then go right back. This is the same for the vacuum going to the brakes. Did a compression test and got very steady readings on all cylinders of about 150 psi. I did a small squirt of WD40 in each cylinder before testing and held the throttle open. The next issue is that the car is still a dog off he line but pulls very good up top. Much slower off the start than before any of the work. it seems to bog way down. Does not even chirp the tires. At this point I'm not sure what else to try and how to fix it.
Did you use adjustable pushrods? Might still be off. Zero lash. But You still have vacuum problems I think. Try running engine with pcv plugged. Is it possible the intake is not sealed well at bottom of intake and sucking from crankcase?. Had a similar problem before with a 310 cam that I ended up changing timing set. Going 4 degrees advanced and changed from stage 1 intake to single plane but car is in paint so never got to run it. I had heard some early ta intakes where porous. Not sure if its true. Just a thought.
