Not exactly sure on spring pressure installed. What do you mean by measure the height to get an idea? Called a shop today and they quoted me $650 for new valve guides, valve job, and to mill the heads. Thats if I install everything myself. Checked the cylinder head today after sitting with WD-40 in the chambers all night. The ports were clearly moist but the chambers were still full and none were un even. I would assume that is typical considering it is a penetrating oil and it should eventually seep by the gaps.
If you get a guide knurl you could try it yourself. I would put the dampers back in. Never seen a problem having to remove them. Sound like they are sealing .but I would have had the heads looked at after valve job anyways. Had done one once and had to pull back apart.
The valves do not fit unless the dampeners are removed. They rub on the valve seal. TA said removing the dampener would not cause any issues.
Yes, the timing events. I re-read the original post. Need to do more than line up dots to ascertain the cam's position, even if 90% of the time it works out. You don't really need a degree wheel, the dampner and timing cover will work. With a piston stop or indicator or whatever... verify that true TDC from the piston corresponds to the marks on the balancer as well as the timing cover. Then verify (using an indicator) a valve opening or closing event. You can probably find one that is read from the timing tab, or mark the dampner and figure out degrees, or use a degree wheel.
Timing card says. Cam specs: Intake opens 30 degrees, closes 70 degrees. Exhaust opens 72.5 degrees, closes 32.5 degrees. Degree intake. Lobe to 106 degrees for 4 degrees advance. exhaust opens 45 degrees BBDC, intake opens -1 degree BTDC, exhaust closes 5 degrees ATDC, intake closes, 39 degrees ABDC. .294 degree lift for both intake and exhaust. 110 degrees lobe center.
So, verify the specs as described. Make sure you know for a fact that your timing cover and dampner mark corresponds to the piston at VERIFIED TDC. At a glance, that looks like the overlap phase of the cam events using .050" lift. Those #'s were singled out because you can use the timing cover to verify w/o a degree wheel.
Going to have the heads get a valve job, guides, and mill them down. How much should I have the shop take off? I am using the stock Fel-Pro headgaskets. I would also like to keep the stock pushrods. Will I need new valves?
You can use your valves. Hardened seats not needed. Its been running on unleaded since the 80s. You can go .025-.030 off head unless you had steel shim headgasket then go .045-.050
Would the .030 with felpro head gaskets really change anything? and stock pushrods correct? I'm just curious how the shorter distance still works with the same lenght pushrods. wouldn't there be more preload on the lifters then?
Slightly more preload on lifters. But like anything else there is a tolerance for minor engine changes during a rebuild. But I would say that is getting to the limit. As far as changing anything. You should see more torque and power. Its about .68 increase in compression.
Dropping off heads tomorrow at machine shop. Getting a valve job, new guides, and shaving them .030. Also going to buy a degree wheel and indicator to degree the camshaft properly. Any tips or tricks, things I should know about degreeing the cam?
Study that link. If using your stock crank bolt, most degree wheels center hole use smaller diameter centering lug that the wont fit the bolt. Over come that by laying out center with the crank bolt washer on the degree wheel and use permenant ink outline so when you tighten the wheel you can center it on the crank. Next, get good extensions for your dial indicator. Ill post a link to what i bought from summit And the extensions from Amazon. Consdering i use degree wheel and set up every few years, I didnt break the bank on the set up. Last, be sure to read the wheel carefully as there are two markings, white for centerline degree and black for valve timing. Compare your readings to your cam card. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-62191 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900016-1 http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools...7599&sr=8-1&keywords=dial+indicator+extensionin
So I have began degreeing the cam and things just don't seem to be working out right. I installed degree wheel and dial indicator and found TDC with a true dead piston stop. Set the degree wheel to 0 at TTDC. Then I rotated the engine clockwise until the indicator read .05 and the number I got was -1.5 degrees. I continued to rotate the engine and the max lift cam out to 1.9 on the indicator. Continued rotating engine until the indicator was .05 off the base again and got 141.5 degrees. This is what I am using: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1057/overview/ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900016-1/overview/
