I will make sure to check this. Thanks!. Is there anything else I should check and do before I reassemble to find the vacuum leaks? Aside from testing the valves again with a better liquid.
Why should I disassemble the head? If the valves do not leak what is the reason. The valve seals and springs are brand new.
Did you measure sprig height to get correct and even pressure on all valves? If you pull valves you can check seats to see if there is any problems. Did you check valve guide wear? That can cause vacuum problems also.
You are in a a position to start over from nearly scratch and verify for CERTAIN in a step by step methodical manner. Valuable diagnostic opportunities have already been overlooked in the haste to remove a head. What did you learn about the valve seats by removing it? Why wouldn't you pop the springs off at this point and simply look, even if one at a time? If you put it back together and are still not happy, then what? So far you have been offered enough advice to solve this, from everyone...or at least a method of diagnosis. Nobody likes to see a guy waste his time and we all want your car to run good! I somehow get the impression you are picking and choosing which advice to follow...there's some talented enthusiasts, tuners, builders, machinists, etc. on this board trying to help you!
Personally I would start with decking heads .060 and a professional valve job with guides. No hardened seats. Get TA .050 shorter pushrods. Recheck timing chain. Set timing to 34@ 2600. Then see what tuning is left if needed. Your this far down into engine. Start from beginning like mentioned.
I'm very grateful for all the help that you have all given me. I would love to make certain that every little thing is perfect before reassembling but I am new to all of the advanced things you are all talking about. The best help would be a very detailed step-by-step procedure/check list to do. I'm not very interested in getting a valve job, decking heads, or any other machining unless it is absolute certain that it is required. I will still look into some shops and call about some prices. I don't know what everything should look, feel, sound, and measure out to be. These "basic" tips are most helpful for a newbie like myself. When disassembling heads: what exactly do I look for? what's good what's bad? What are the measurements I can take? Sorry for being so needy! -Preston
ok go back to what you did are you good enough to know how to port match heads to intake without changing CC? angle maybe 1/2'' into chamber only, carb is correct i'd bet on it gasket don't know? , valve's professional didn't do em ? measurements on valve height after lapping ? post preoiled lifters got to be good, cam is perfect, chain install cant mess that up, composite intake gasket matched to steel head gasket ?? timing u got it recaaaaaaappp gaskets,rtv,,three bond -----torque procedure----take heads to professional === did I miss anything
The heads have been port matched and all the casting imperfections have been removed. Carb is brand new from Everyday performance. I only lapped the valves myself. I did not see a need for a valve job. Each valve and seat had a very nice and even sealing area after lapping. Did not take measurements of valve height after lapping. Took a straight edge to the valve tips after installed and there is about 1/16 difference between some of the heights. I did not pre-oil the lifters because TA said it was not necessary. Timing chain installing with crank sprocket dot aligned with cam sprocket triangle. (4 degrees advanced) Fel-pro head gasket. Metal intake gasket.
Don't worry about asking questions. If I had someone to ask this stuff years ago I would have gotten so much farther with all my cars over the years. Don't be afraid of any machine work on the engine/heads. After a port job and disturbing 45 year old valves and guides, I would consider it a priority. Milling heads was just my opinion on the combo you have. That cam responds well to a bump in compression. Its not needed. But I do feel you will be much happier with the outcome. Stock actual compression has come up around 7.7 with average common measurements from builders on here. .060 would net about 8.7. You would see great improvement with that cam. As far as what to look for the compression leak don't test would have answered a lot. But checking heads will a penetrate type oil will give some answers. Check plugs and piston tops for variations in carbon or wetness of unburned fuel. Oil or even spark plug and wire issues like gap and electrode damage. Crack in white parts. Weak wire. Your looking to increase performance but you have to do it right the first time. As you can see the second time bites.
I will look into a valve job. any idea how much that might run at a local shop? as well as getting the heads milled?
depends if they have to use flow bench to match chambers on cc don't know how far you went into chambers ,,, 3 angle job ,, tips,, pushrods now I guess ?? you have machinist motor builders super techs right here you are lucky but nobody can see what you have priceless
Shops are different. But assume 250 for both head, 80 for guides plus parts. Not sure about milling . I would assume 100? I can't see it taking an hour and they more than likely will set up for cleanup cut anyway. But check local shops.
Start with WD 40. If no valves leak you are golden! If one or 2 do then disassemble and see if it's a dirty assembly, look a bit closer. Could be a chunk of grit embedded. Might try lapping if you can see the contact pattern is close. You might find a shop willing to "bump" one or 2 seats with a stone or serdi (unlikely). Upon assembly they usually get lightly smacked in with a plastic hammer to seat them. Let's try this before calling shops.
I've been very busy with work and school but finally tonight I picked up a can of WD-40. I placed the one cylinder head I removed on the bench and leveled it. Filled the combustion chambers full of WD-40 and let it sit. After about a half hour I came back and looked for leaks. All the levels of liquid were the exact same. I saw not a single drop or spec of wetness in any intake/exhaust port. I would say that this head is sealing good. I plan to remove the other head and test that one also. If they both do not leak I am going to reassemble and try to trace down the vacuum leak while running with water or starter fluid. Any other suggestions?? Also I saw online that when the needle on the vacuum gauge bounces very fast only about 1in. that tends to mean the valve stem/guide may be worn and it could leak from there. Any way to test this? Calipers??
A few times I've found the reason for a bouncy needle on a vacuum gauge was weak valve springs. hope you get things sorted out man. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Forum Fiend v1.3.3.
the valve springs are brand new Stage one springs from TA. I did remove the spring dampener to make sure they fit but this is per TA's recommendation. Could the vibration cause it possibly?
Are you using Felpro head gaskets? If you are they will further reduce CR so you will need to cut the heads just to get. Back to original.
Worn guides or spring bounce. Any idea of installed pressure? Measure retainer height w/o spring to get an idea. Without a way to measure guide ID you kind of have to jiggle the stem around in the guide. Might have to Google a description of that. They shouldn't really move visibly, only feel the stem being "free".
