Thanks for the info guys. I guess i will have to check for vacuum leak. Didn't know i a vacuum leak could cause these type issues. Again I am learning from those who know!:TU: Mike
I put in a new 160 Mr.gasket high flo thermostat just to rule out that it was not sticking plus the seal around my thermostat was leaking slightlt anyway and needed to be fixed. As I was doing this i was thinking could there be an air pocket that was causeing the overheating or wierd issues I'm having? Tips or trick on refilling as to not get an air pocket. I have let the new seal set overnight and will refill with, Distilled water, water wetter and some 50/50 tonight. Thanks, Mike
If you let the engine run with the cap off and heater valve open, you will eliminate any air pockets. Drilling a hole in the stat will help also. Once the stat has opened, I let it run for 5-10 minutes, then raise the idle to about 1500 or so, then top off the coolant in the radiator and put the cap on, and return to normal idle. Then fill the overflow. If you have a vacuum gauge, what is it reading in Park fully warmed up?
Larry I don't have a vacuum gage but may be able to borrow one. I will let it run and warm up, also try covering the carb test to see if it dies or not as to see if there is a leak. PS: Thanks for the info the other night, I owe you one. Mike
Mike, Vacuum gauges are cheap. It's a must have tool like a timing light. What are the specs on your cam, Intake and Exhaust duration, and LSA?
Intake exhaust duration@.050 231 242 lobe lift .3230 .3400 separation 110 OP-CL OP-CL Duration at.006 288 292 gross vlve lift .501 .527 valve lash hot .000 .000 degree Intake lobe to 106 Grind No. BUB 288/292-10H (Bullet Racing Cams) I have a good timing light, i will get a vac gage from Pepboys
Update* no vaccum leaks. new 160* thermostat. set timing back to 35*.(boy the car likes that!) added some 116 octane to her and no pinging. Also not heating up as much at idle 190* but it was only 62*outside temp today. temp drops to 160 while driving. I think next next may need to switch smaller crank pulley back to stock pulley size. Special thanks to the Wizard and Johnny Angel
Mike, It looks like we have the same cam. Although my degree intake lobe is: 105 ATDC 2* advance. Must be one of M. Laciura's favorite grinds. It appears to be a very versatile cam, seems to react very well to a set of nice flowing heads, a bump of compression, and a big carb. Good luck. Regards, John.
Im not the wizard, but i'd say keep bumping the timing back 1 deg. until you notice the performance drop noticeably and then go back up 1 deg - see where that puts you. Also take vacuum and temp readings noting any differences. ... that is, after your done smelling all those sweet high-octane fumes what kind of water temp gauge are you using ?
I strongly suggest you pull timing out. The car will seem faster with more timing because it will have more response , and will spin the tires, but it will destroy itself at higher rpms.
Mike L form Wildcat performance who built my motor, strongly suggested i put the timing back up to 35-36* Now I had it form 34 down to 32 and temp wise and prefromance wise it did not like 32.o No: Also had the car out for a good 45 mins in stop and go traffic yesterday in 72* weather and she stayed 185 and below. Got on it once and she smoked them with ease and no pinging. It has melted the tires at all degrees of timing not matter what. response is noticable more with 35* in it. i do have a 6000rpm rev limiter on the 6al boxo No:
OK ... so back to the point - did you discuss the pinging problem with Mike L. ?? Is it still pinging without adding race gas ?? ... I've certainly gotten a crappy tank of gas in the past. Maybe that was just it
Yes I did discuss it with him. he thinks I should be able to run the car with 93 with the 35-36* timing and no pinging. I guess it could have been bad gas. I have a gallon of 116 in there now. I picked up 2, 5 gallon race jugs at Carlise last week cheap and went to Atco and filled them up for me and my brother. I am guessing pinging was also related to the engine temps getting up there as well.
no, still have em hear. Its killing me to take em off though cause i love the billet pulley look. i may just put the stock crank pulley on. I had it blasted and painted it aluminum and came out good. the billet water pump pulley is stock size, the billet alt pulley is a litttle larger, the billet powersteering is stock size and the billet crank is smaller-underdriven.
Mike, If I were you, and I am not... I would at least put the stock, year specific, water pump and crank shaft, O.E. pulleys back on the car and start from baseline. At least you know those, along with your aluminum radiator should solve any cooling issues. Then, you can experiment from there? I went from non A/C pulleys, to A/C pulleys, on my build, just to have peace of mind. (There is so much traffic, construction, and stop and go driving by me.) I have not looked back at all. Plus, I like the black pulleys, against the red block. Nice O.E. look and contrast. Please keep posting. Regards, John.:3gears:
* update. Seems that the other and or the main culprit could of been my carb. Was running and 800 cfm Q-jet and I think it was just starving the motor at more open throttle attempts. I bought and 850 Holley DP from a member hear but when I bolted up was leaking hear and there so instead of messing around anymore( needs rebuild kit) I went out a got a brand new Holley 950 HP!!!! We got it all hooked up and HOLY S*$T what a difference. Night and Day difference. Car pulls MUCH harder than with the Q-jet and no pinging or feeling of the car falling down at open throttle. It just blows the tires off with ease at part throttle and beyond!!!:grin: I also added 1' Phenollic spacer. When my motor was dynoed orginally it performed much better with and 870 SA Holley on dyno(as one of the engine builders carbs) but i descided to keep the Q-jet since it was all I had at the time and I just had the Q-Jet rebuilt. So check out parts for sale section I will be selling and 850 DP Holley and an 800 Q-jet
If that Q-jet was stock, I'm not surprised that it was lean for your motor. The stock jetting on the 7044240 carburetor was .073 primary jets, 49B primary rods, and CT secondary rods (.0774 tips) Contrast that with my John Osborne 7042240 carb. .076 primary jets, 46B primary rods, and BG secondary rods (.0397 tips) I would rejet that carb and hold onto it if I was you.
