Some may know of my new rebuild and its only got about 250 miles on it. Had it out today in the beautiful weather and the one time I got on it she was pinging like crazy. Then seemed like it was ideling higher and she was getting hot. didn't put the timing light on it yet. letting car cool down. seemed like it did this once before and dropped down to 33* from 36* amd that helped before and now this????? I run MSD pro billet distrib, and 6AL box. any thoughtso No: o No: o No:
Mike, How old is your gas? I would carefully drive around and burn it up, if it is from last Fall. Put some new stuff in, and then see what happens? I have been told, that gas loses its octane over the winter. Also, are you getting enough fuel? Check for restrictions, kinks or clogs. When does it ping, part throttle, high rpm 3rd gear? What is your timing set at now? Your engine might also just need to run 32* or 34* max? Be careful, detonation is a killer. Regards, John.
Hey John, Thanks for the reply. The gas is pretty good I think cause I never had much in there and have been putting in small amounts of 93. I have driven it few times since fall cause we had mild winter with no snow. I just had it out last week as well for a couple hours on a warm day and it ran great no pinging at all even after stomping it a few times. Just stomped it once today and it sounded like crap still let em up though. My motor was dynoed at 36* but we dropped it to 33* can it go back up by itself for any reason? I am know timing or tuning expert for sure. Its basically high rpm pinging. As far as getting enough fuel I'm not positive there.. Wildcat said the stage one fuel pump should be enough for my build. I do have an new 850dp wiating to go on there as well.o No: o No:
Mike, I am no expert, but looking at your numbers in your signature, 9.96:1 compression, with cast iron heads, might be running on the edge, with 93 octane? If you have lost some octane over the Winter, that might explain it? You also, may have to run a splash of race gas, if you want to run 34* or 36* timing. I think "The Wizard" used to run a gallon or two, when he had his iron heads. If I am correct, I think that the 1970 Stage engines around 9.4:1 compression. Try the simple things first, then worry. The higher idle, is strange, maybe someone with more experience than me, can figure out that one. Keep us informed. Regards, John.
Mike, I also noticed that you said it was getting hot? Did you ever get your aluminum radiator? If so, it should not be getting hot, ever, if things are working correctly. I am not sure if you temperature issue, is a byproduct of the detonation, or the detonation may be a result of your temp issue?o No: As for timing changing, I guess it is possible, check the timing. Also, check to see if you can move the distributor, is the hold down bolt tight enough? Check things out. Are you sure the underdrive pulleys move enough coolant? Were things o.k. in the Summer months? I think you said that they were fine? Regards, John.
Sounds like your distributor may have moved. More timing will give a faster idle. Which bushing is in the billet distributor? The color of the bushing determines how much mechanical advance is in the distributor. Once you know that, you can subtract it from the total advance you want to run to get the initial timing you need to run. Always recheck the total. We can mess with it at Yardleys barbecue if you don't have it straightened out by then. 36* may work on the dyno, but you may need to back it down in the car. My 70 had 9.4:1 with the iron heads and it needed race gas mixed in to prevent detonation.
Mike, How do your plugs look? Maybe you just need to fatten the secondaries up a touch? It is hard to know for sure, without a wide band 02 sensor. One more thing to keep in mind: The engine may have worked fine on the dyno as you have it, but when it is put in the car, with different variables, like temperature, G-forces, old fuel lines, etc. Things are different. In other words, your engine was stationary, and in a controled enviornment. Your car is now moving, and fuel is sloshing around, and being pushed toward the rear, away from the pick up. Do you have the sock on your pick up? It is a restriction, it may help to remove it. If you do that, be sure your fuel filter is in good shape, because you have no safety net. I do not run a sock, but I have a fuel filter before my electric pump. I am o.k. with that. Good luck. P.M. me, if you want. I am not nearly as knowlegable as most on this board, but I will try to help you in any way I can. Check things out first, then if you must, make one change at a time. It is probably something simple, your car was working before. Regards, John.
I did get the aluminum rad and switched to the smaller billet water pump pulley from TA. The march one from poston was huge and prob spun the water pump too slow. Once I did that it was running pretty cool for sure. I will check the plugs and the distrib, maybe it did move Larry? My fuel system is stock except for the stage 1 fuel pump. I have touched nothing else on other than changeing the rubber inlet and outlet lines to the fuel pump. My guess is original tank and lineso No: .
Mike, If "The Wizard" is willing to help you, at some Buick function, I would take him up on it. He ain't called "The Wizard" for nothing. Regards, John.:TU:
I hear ya John. No doubt I will be going. Hopefully no issues on my way there not too far for me anyway. Larry, Ran down and checked the distrib and it is tight so I don't think it moved. I will check timing tomorrow, too late to start up car now. Mike
that would be the first thing I look at since it was the last thing changed - what type of fuel line did you use ?? .. pinch it - you shouldnt be able to collapse it too easily
Didn't check the timing yet cuase again it too late and don't want to wake up the house but have a look at the 2 plugs from the driver side. Too lean??? For some reason the pics won't upload but the look pretty white-esh???
Mike, From what I have read, it is difficult to read plugs that way. You need to get a light and a magnifying glass, to look down to the base of the plug. There will be a ring, that is the burn color. Also, white plugs are o.k., as long as you do not see any pepper like spots, or glazing on the white part of your plugs. I believe that is a sign of bad detonation. Also abnormal, or melted electrode wear, are signs of detonation I think. Kinda hard to tell from your pics. I am getting a little over my head here, and don't want to give you false info. Show them to the guys at the picnic, they will know. Check the basics first. Regards, John.
Update: Checked the timing today and it 32*. So timing is good and checked other plugs and they all look white-esh, tan-esh which I believe is good so I don't think its too lean?? Started it up in the driveway today and let it run for a bit. Ran for about 15-20 mins couple of revs and checked timing, and it heated up to 210* and prob would of kept going but shut it off. I am thinking maybe stuck thermostat??? Have a 160* Mr' gasket high flo in there. I am running 7 blade fan with the NAPA HD fan clutch that the Larry the Wizard reccommeded. New aluminum radiator and am running stock shroud. What do you think?
cool the motor down, and do yourself a favor put the timing at 30 and leave it your mains will thank you, you only hear pinging when its bad!!! it will still ping and you wont hear it. How hot are your plugs,I know 30 sounds low but these are just #s put motor where it likes it mine is at 24 total, my riv is at 28
Where is the initial? Do you have vacuum advance on the distributor you are using? OK, looked at your initial post and see you are running the MSD Pro Billet distributor, so no vacuum advance. Are you running the black advance bushing? That will give you 18* of mechanical advance which means that your initial advance should be 14* for 32* total. I usually use the vacuum advance to supplement initial timing so the engine idles at 20+ degrees of timing. This helps the tendency to heat up at idle and low speed. You have an iron headed motor. I wouldn't expect it to run on pump premium with 10:1 compression. My GS had 9.4:1 with the iron heads and I had to use a few gallons of 110 per tankfull to ward off the pinging. That was at 32* timing. If you are not willing to do that, I would do as Rod says and reduce your timing.
do you think thats why its overheating with 32* total timing? I want to try and not lose too much street performance or shall i say tire melting. I am afraid to drive it with the temperature coming up so fast and high at idel. is dropping it to 30* going to effect the tem that much? At idle it is like 15*
