I'm an Erson dealer, be happy to grind you whatever you want. Erson recommends not using "Diesel" oils, Rotella etc because they have too much detergent in them. A good 10W-30 with an additive like EOS or similar should work fine. Like someone else mentioned, even if you use synthetic you still need an additive. This is one reason why I run a roller. I know there has been talk of Hyd rollers for the Buick guys on here and other sites. Hope it comes thru.
TA makes em for us and crower will make a roller also. My only concern about running a solid cam is that this is my daily driver also.You have to adjust the valve lash roughly once a month right?
Not that I know much about using a solid cams..... But I asked a few older guys about how the solid cams are for street cars. They were telling me that when using a new cam you have to adjust the lash a few times while things wear in. They told me that when they went to adjust them most times they needed no adjustment and were fine. Way back before either of us were born most engines had solid lifter cams, and they worked great for many years. I wonder what the factory suggested lash interval was for old V8 engines, certainly not monthly .
:gp: :Smarty: Indeed asked my old man he pretty much said you adjust it for a few times after break in and then he only adjuted his when he heard valvetrain noise.
No, you don't. Think about it, if you had to do that it would mean that it was wearing so fast that it's life cycle would be severely limited. I've had solid lifters and I don't recall having to adjust them all the time like I've heard others talk about. The only real issue is the noise. I think some people just can't get used to it and constantly think something is wrong with the engine. My Comp XE is just as noisey as a solid cam. If I had known that before I bought it I would have gone with something different. Not much sense in having noisey lifters without the performance of solids.
I tell you what, my personal opinion is that your combination does not and will not support a camshaft above the Lunati you were running. Over camming an engine is worse than leaving the stocker in the Buick 350. The SBB loves cylinder pressure and compression. That is why there is such a drastic difference when NO2 or boost is added to the mix, much more so than a typical 4" bore small block. I would use the Erson cam offered by Mark and get the same grind as the Lunati. Your combination was not over cammed as the cylinder press was not bleeding off due to the duration on the exhaust side. Any duration greater would start bleeding cylinder pressure. This always happens but is usually overcome with higher engine speeds allowing for the cylinder pressure to build back up. This is what happens to the TA 310 cam. It runs really well from 2500 RPM up, but is really soggy on the bottom end. This is contradictory to the entire engine when using a SBB, so hopefully you stick with a relatively small camshft or a medium sized roller. Solids are a PITA when you have a Buick cause the valve train is not adjustable, you need to have some push rods custom made or use adjustable pushrods to maintain your lash. Stay away from the solids for the street. I do like them for drag racing...like a TA 212 with solid lifters. The valve train is just so much lighter the motor revs quicker and snaps. My opinion...stick with a streetably small cam unless you jack the compression way higher or add some NO2.
What would be higher 11 or 12 to 1. See the thing is I am getting another cam from lunati today hopefully and I dont really want to use it again.What grind would you suggest lightning bird for my combo.Also that solid crower cam sean suggested is only 60$ Honestley I just want power back to my car having this comp 268h cam back in makes me want to just let it sit until I quit being a girl and just order a facking cam.
Lightning Bird makes good points, I agree with everything he says. However I know you are going to have the heads ported soon and you are also going with the 4.10 gears, I would hate to see you swap in a cam and have to do it again in a few months when you make more mods and want a larger cam. Your compression is fine for a large cam, no worries there. Like I said, I rarely suggest a large cam but Russ might just love that large solid cam from crower for his combo. Can you say trans brake? Man your NA 350 is starting to come together!
Arnold Hines was running 16 to 1 on his naturally aspirated race engine last year. This year he decided to back it down a bit, all the way to 15.5 to 1. Then again, everything is custom in his engine...:shock:
No Sean, not a Buick (not that he couldn't if he chose to though). Heck, he runs 7/16" push rods, a widely known nascar team intake, all kinds of custom hand crafted internal parts, crazy stuff like that...:kodak:
Not yet Im waiting to get a quote on that erson grind so far the custom lunati is the best deal though.
I can have that to you on monday. Remember when switching from a hyd to a solid you can normally go with a bit more duration apples to apples. Usually somewhere around 8-10 degrees at .050. If you don't mind I may forward you some picks of lobes on the Lunati as well. I've always liked their stuff too.
If you have a loose converter and a ton of gear you wont over cam it. I dont care what kind of motor it is. What I think is going to hold you back is your DP. If you put a SP on it it would really wake up. Do you still have the Q jet or have you got a Holley yet. Thats going to be your next step.
Still got the q-jet and the holley 850.A S/P intake would be nice! but I dont have cash for an x-factor right now.I tell you what though so far driving around I miss my Q-jet over the holley gas mileage wise lol.
