Shiver me timbers Bill one hell of a entertaining thread to waste actually working on the car time on. I'm sure I'm not the only one well impressed with your rapid progress. Curious as to what booster you used and how pedal travel/feel is, how's rocker cover clearance? Perhaps it is fortunate that Hu Flung Ding @ honorable cardboard box gulag was sloppy packaging your tank. You clearly be adept at working with what you can lay yer hands on. Now you got flee clappy tank ( but clean??) To work with, I'd be leary of the wire feeder- maybe a tack or three to lock it in place during a test fit. Silver solder or brazing should work fine, at least you have the luxury of working with a tank that hasn't had fuel in it. Some hail Mary's couldn't hurt. Rock on Bill Crap your hands lound eye. All the best for the missus at the Steve Austin clinic Cheers Lloyd in Gizzy
Blimey Gubna'.... Lloyd, I hafta admit that yer note re-instilled some confidence in me and our humor is on the same page! I think your idea of installing the tank and "tacking" the neck into position with the MIG and then removing to solder is the way to go. Right now the neck is still connected via a "blob" of solder holding it in, but by no means in the correct position. Its probably going to break when I install it A three or four point zip with the MIG will provide a stable foundation anyway. Bravo sir! So Pats on vacation with one son, one daughter, their spouses and 6 pre pubescent kids. 2000 miles from home and its 100F. Spent a thousand dollar day at Busch gardens yesterday and all got spit roasted by the fireball in the sky. Your not allowed to carry anything in so you are at their mercy for food and water. Water is 3.50 per bottle and Pat can down 4-5 per day up here at 45* north. Down there, I think she got dehydrated. Thats not a good thing for us old timers! So daughters entourage is in a chrysler van with either a few bad injectors or a bad fuel pump. This guy is actually a Ford dealer mechanic away from home with no tools. Just to get home is gonna be a stage coach trip. The van will barely hold 40 mph and with a bunch of screaming, tired from driving kids, and wife will become a true testament to the man's will. I'll update as that story plays out. Pats due home Sunday PM, then Monday she goes to the Steve Austin Clinic LOL. At 1400 hrs, she gets the gas. Its a 3 hour job then overnight in the hospital for vitals etc. She cant drive for at least 9 days, so thats on me; and let me tell ya, she's a gypsy haha... Ill get her turned up on pain meds so I can get some shop time. I hope everyone here can pass out a few Hail Marys' too. For Me, Pat, AND the tank job. haha. I thank thee O' Lord! Thanks for playing along mate! stay tuned in to see how THIS chapter plays out. GOOD GRIEF!! Bill
I forgot to talk brakes with you. The OEM 1964 power booster clears with zero issues. I think its actually a bit smaller OD than a later model unit, but the 1969 skylark master cylinder bolts on with no issues. The brakes (even with a leaking MC) are really good. Thats 4 wheel drums BTW. All new piping but original wheel cylinders. At rest, theres a little pedal play, but when running the pedal is nice and firm and feels propper. If you havent already, consider going with a dual master cylinder and replace the brake lines. The weakest link in the chain by far! The pedal hitting the floor is the worst feeling in the world! Bill
If it were mine, I'd try the 60/40 solder first since it requires lower heat. If the 60/40 solder melts before the original stuff does, it's likely lead free solder on there.... it has higher melting point than 60/40. Just be sure to use the proper flux for what ever solder you use. I like silver solder but the challenge would be getting a higher melting point filler to flow on the bottom side near that tank seam..... that looks hard to get to with a torch. Or just take it to a radiator shop and have them do it!
Does anything come out of China "lead free"? ......Just wondering. I think the 60/40 idea is the way to go though. I would mock it up with a floor jack and a small piece of plywood to hold it in place and set the filler neck to the proper position and mark it or mig tack it, then drop and solder.
This is all too much 2 finger typing, so Ill C&P this from the 65GS forum. They understand over there! ws "Id rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal LOBOTOMY"....Jack Baselski, 1978 Well now, where to begin. Attitude. Got up today feeling positive about life and a gas tank repair. Had some coffee and kicked the dogs and gave them all their CDB treats. We all have old bones all of a sudden. Get out to the shop to finally examine the tank up close and personal. Now follow closely: This tank had a "hole" punched in it (probably with a water buffalo horn) that was "close" to the pipe diameter. The pipe going in at an angle to the tank presented a wider than desired gap. For those of yooz that have swapped OEM necks out, the pipe has either a flange, or a rolled "nib" in the steel to perform the solder joint. This is a pipe in a hole. First off, if this were a domestic tank, I'd say it was shipped with a film of cosmoline. This thing was globbed with YAK FAT. The solder that was used is much harder than 60/40 and really looks like an aluminum repair with a propane torch rod sold on TV. Being chinasteel, the material is junk (by US standards) dirty low grade material. Combined with the YAK FAT, it was impossible to clean (solder wise). My hands were absolutely BLACK from handling this guy, and I ended up with a clean rag and MEK to clean it up. Its still has a "filmy" feel to it. The rag looked like I wiped the black overspray off the floor. WHAT CRAPPY MATERIAL! I probably shouldve taken the pipe OUT, cleaned it and began from scratch, but an initial fit up proved its location was pretty close to spot on. I decided to go ahead and make the repair. If youve ever sweated copper pipe, you can appreciate the cleaning, sanding (or wire brush scrubbing, and a clean solder and good flux) for a good job. I went so far as to touch a pencil point burr into the groove to clean any galvanizing out 1/2" of either side of the repair, washed it 5X with brake cleaner and a wire brush, and blew it clean with clean air. I was using a propane torch (Im outa MAPP) and tried several fluxes (all industrial stuff) and tried 5/32 60/40 acid core, resin core, straight lead, and lead free solders and nothing would tin the parent metal. I even pulled out "Excalibur" my 500 watt electric iron, cleaned with a special cleaning block and tinned with clean solder and was only able to get an "acceptable" closure on the gap to about 75%. I ended up with 1/2lb of solder rolling around inside the tank. That was all stuck to YAK FAT inside the tank. What a pisser to clean! So with a 75% seal and some decent drops that tinned to the gap, I ended up doing a cold repair with JB weld. I hate doing things like an amatuer, but 3 hours on a pipe sweat and I was at my limit. The JB started to get like "plastic" so I installed the tank AGAIN to verify placement. It was still spot on. I did increase the carriage bolt length from 3" to 4" for ease of nutting. Its pulled up 100% and curing overnight. While going to the hardware store (Thank God for standard GM fasteners!!) my new SS sending unit showed up. Three days early. Tomorrow, Im gonna pull the tank down and install the sender, and pressure test the tank with 5 psi of air. Im also gonna replace the 5/16 frame pipe with 3/8. The OEM pipe is pretty soft from rust anyway. If you look at the vent pipe, you can see the aluminum torch rod type of weld. I did blow the vent hose and its 100% clear. Im not sure what kind of JU-JU the witch doctor uses in china, but I do know that if a gulag inmate takes 3 hours on a job like this, it would mean his last bowl of rice! Pretty good story huh??? So the filler is rigid and seems sealed pretty well. I hope the judges dont drop the plate and inspect the filler neck and sting me 10 points HA HA! Bill
Hey Bill, you really don't have to drop the tank to install the sender. I was able to change mine out with the tank in place. BTW....Loved this line.... "This tank had a "hole" punched in it (probably with a water buffalo horn) that was "close" to the pipe diameter." LMFAO
Hey Bill, you really don't have to drop the tank to install the sender. I was able to change mine out with the tank in place. Thanks Nick! I can appreciate that but I didnt put the rub pad on top and still need to run a new frame pipe for the fuel. After that sender is in I wanna pressure test that tank, especially the seam weld just to make sure. Once gas is in it I am committed to dealing with that PLUS the extra weight. So now I know it at least fits! "This tank had a "hole" punched in it (probably with a water buffalo horn) that was "close" to the pipe diameter." The video above exploits the chinaslaves working on electronics and other consumer goods in a big city, I was trying to find a vid of a back water production company that shows the slaves in bare feet on dirt floors... stuff they dont want westerners to see. Like that U.S. model that has a clothing line didnt realize all those trillions of T shirts were made in a sweat factory??? Yeah, right! All them workers are dressed like Sumo Wrestlers. ws
Woke up today with bad Ju-Ju from chinaman witch doctor. Had to get the infected cyst lanced, then R&R for a day. That sucks. But the get well card came in the mail. Cool.... ws
Bad Ju-Ju going away long time... Now Im not taking any prisoners. Pulled the bastard down for some acreage for MY acreage running the fuel pipe. Ive seen more of the bottom of this thing than the top. The JB weld was 100% cured and ready for the testes! Getting ready to TEA BAG this thing. Capped the tank off and added about 3-5 psi of air and went over EVERY point with dawn soap and water. Not a single bubble. Cutting it in half and making a Texas WOK is outa the question. Damn... it was already seasoned with YAK FAT too. Glued the OEM tank pad back on and its going back in for the BIG PLAY tomorrow. Got back underneath with the Parker-Hannifin mini tube cutter and EXCISED the old fuel line. I gotta tell you IT SUCKED pulling the last length outa the frame horn up front, as in vise grips and a ball pein hammer. I have a new 25 foot roll of steel tubing. We exchanged glances for an hour. I called about a roll of cupro-nickel tubing (easy bend stuff) and that was 110.00 a roll RYSM???? Called another guy and talked AN6 silicone hose. That stuff is 4.50/foot. I glanced back at the steel coil and advised it to get ready; we're going in. I had a decent piece of the 5/16 stuff and struggled getting that back through the front. Believe me, I was looking at alternative routing. Once it was in there was plenty of room to wiggle it. Hmm. Took a 1/4" stud, and connected the old to the new with a single strip of..... Duct tape. I PUSHED that stuff all the way to the rear control arm mount. Gonna put a couple of chafe guards on it and secure it, then run a 2 foot piece of hose to the tank. Its almost impossible to make the bends and install with the body on. So Pat had such a great time in Cape Coral that she swears she's driving straight through LOL. 22 hours (averaging 60mph) and she's gonna average 40-45 with potty breaks etc etc... ws
You crack me up! I couldn't have summed it up better myself. China stuff is craaaaaap! I call 'em china fakes. It looks right, but it only lasts one day.
Yeahhh its a good time for sure when you encounter an SAE fastener (1/2" bolt) with a metric thread. I tend to MIC stuff and its never quite right. ws
When handling the chinatank, I always wear kevlar "cutless gloves". I was lazy this morning and had the tank slid into place and reached for the strap nuts. Back to the task, I stuck the ungloved hand in and the china badger bit my finger. BAMM! Just like that. Blood all over my new concrete LOL. I hope YAK FAT isnt poisonous or carries some eastern rabies. Got the new tank totally installed WAHOOO!!! Finished up the new fuel line to the pump. Pulled the battery out of the 72 XGS and cleared the prop and... NADA. The bastard wouldnt so much as fart. A few drops of gas down the carb and it fired right up; for a few seconds. I figured the whole system needed to re-prime. I did the force feed a few times and finally stayed running, but really lousy. Let it warm up for almost an hour. FINALLY got rid of the stench of the burning old gas, WHEW!! The new T stat and gage gave me 175F, so thats good. It ended up stalling but good after a few revs. Had to prime it again with less than stellar results. Managed to get it to run long enough where it would stumble but keep running. Shut it down and put a pressure gage off the fuel supply to the carb. Got right around 3.75 psi. Hmm The good book says 4.5 lbs MINIMUM. Took the gage off and put a hose onto it into a coffee can for the "flow test" and not even a drop of gas from the pump. The pump came on the burned up 455 when I got it so who knows its' history. I ordered a new one for tomorrow morning. A few questions for those "In the know". All the pumps have provisions for a return line. I have my 72 capped off and its OK. (The return pipe was hacked off by the PO for header issues). All the BBC & SBC chevies Ive had didnt use a return line. So is this a problem? I really dont want to run another pipe to the back... Im piped out! Second, as an FYI, I put 5 gallons of fresh gas into a 20 gallon tank and the gas gage read 1/4 tank. If I can get this thing going tomorrow, Ill make a trip to Krack Trip (quick trip) for some non booze premium and mark the half and 3/4 levels for a comp. Just remember; its always sunny in Beijing! ws
So the new pump cured the stoichiometric discrepancy. Nine + lbs of pressure from a stock pump fed with a 3/8 line from the tank to the carb. Starts with a click on the starter too. All thats left is to crack open the tube of Right Stuff and re-seal the valve covers and go for master cylinder #4 . These were all new; Number one wouldn't bleed the system, No. two leaked at the back end seal after 15 miles, and this one is for a disc brake car. Thats why the guys at crack auto make the big money. Im down to a bleed and a swap in 10 minutes. Haha. Pats down the street after her "vacation" and out for spine surgery tomorrow. Due in on runway "2-7 Left" in five minutes. I'll be back, same time, same station... ws
So Pat is recovering nice and slow... she thought I was kidding when I told her to take it easy for a few days. Her body concurred. So Ive been looking after her as best I can. I know girls want the cute doctor to hold their hands, but Im like a MEDIC thats doing triage. I still seem to overcook her bacon LOL. Yesterday I pulled the red valve covers off and gonna try using some right stuff on the cover side of the gasket. Got the starboard side re-installed with ease, but had to order a new rocker button. I cracked one when installing them, and with just a piece missing, i thought it was OK. But, that being said, the button turned 90* and the rocker arm (#1 on the port side) was partly off the shaft and well off center. New button (I ordered 4) are due in and on today withe the chrome valve cover. I hope that black crap works! Also picking up master cylinder #4 haha. he first one didnt pump, the second one main seal at booster end leaked, the third one was ordered for power front disc brakes (WTF???) and now this one. Just a FYI; all power drum MC's take one part number from 67-72 at least, and the PDBs take another. Too bad Long Dong cant make a decent NEW unit. These were all new BTW. If this one shits-the-bed, I am going with a Cardone unit. These were all Duralast. Even the AC Delco jobs are chinaknockoffs. Cant win for losing!. Got my new art deco air cleaner yesterday. 'Twas 49.00 with free shipping. Its heavy cast aluminum. The edelhoser jobs are chinatin with having to advertise their name in FRONT for 40.00. Not for me. ES & D! The new tank is sporting an original 1964 pad. Looks like new off the time capsule. ws
