Hey Paul, as for the clutch switch, I'll let you know, but it isn't looking like it will be "easy", but it will be done right ... I have it wired and have a couple options where I mocked it in for where to install it and left enough wire on the pigtail I made for it. I am likely going to have make a bracket for it. I am feeling really good that the system is going to be about as bulletproof and work as good as possible with the changes made. I can't wait to tune it and take it on some rips! I opted for the HURST line lock kit, should be here to install next weekend. Thanks for the tips so far.
The Street Sleeper is all back together, started back up on the first turn of the key which is always reassuring when changing an ignition system, let alone integrating it with a N2O system. It was too stormy and wet on the Island to take out on a ground pound...I hope this coming weekend the roads are dry and I can get it out there and row through the gears and tune it. The line lock parts are in transit so I will be installing that next weekend. Cheers and GO HAWKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Weather forecasts are monsoon this weekend, so not heading for dyno tune. I did score a second 10 lb bottle yesterday for a tasty $, like new NEX and has 7lbs of N2O in it. Being cooped up in the garage this weekend l will install the purge solenoid kit. Cheers! Cheers!
I wanted a post here that summarized the wet N2O build on the BUICK Skylark Street Sleeper. Cheers to Paul Muller and others here for advice per the posts in this thread. The schematic Paul posted in this thread is spot on for this system. Current set up on a 1971 BUICK NOS 455, iron ported exhaust manifolds, TAC-110 Cam, Ported & vortexed 1970 iron heads, port matched Edelbrock Performer intake, built Q-Jet, Muncie M-22, 2.73 - 12 Bolt Posi. rear. Forged piston shortblock & 67 GS 400 Exhaust Manifolds ready to swap in soon. Components: Nitrous Supply Inc. Fuel, N2O, and N2O purge solenoids, 6 psi fuel pressure switch, WOT Throttle switch, 10lb bottle with gauge. NEX Bottle heater, gauge and second 10 lb. bottle. NEX fuel pressure regulator in the secondary supply. Carter in line secondary fuel pump. Custom bent steel fuel lines and AN fuel and N2O lines. Omeron clutch switch. Mallory HiFyre VI 685 ignition box is concealed from view but accessible, mounted to the heater box under the dash. It is set to window N2O between 3k rpm - 5K rpm, retard timing 10*deg when the N2O is activated, limits RPM at all times to 5.5k rpm. The MSD blaster 3 coil feeds the MSD Pro Billet Distributor, 8.5 mm wires, NGK UR5 spark plugs. Passenger side behind carb view The Omron clutch switch is integrated into the Mallory wiring which open the circuit immediately upon the clutch pedal being pressed down. Mounted to the dash behind the removable steering column cover for easy access are the N2O relay and secondary Fuel Pump relay, the bottle heater and the secondary fuel pump have 30A breakers in line. Hurst Line Lock / Roll Control on the T Handle, with a small blinking light concealed above the oil pressure gauge when line lock is on. The system arm switch is mounted into the factory accessory panel, which shares the rear defogger switch. The switch has a tiny red indicator when armed, powers the N2O and the secondary fuel pump relays. I also installed a small blue indicator light next to the arm switch which illuminates only when N2O is being injected. Purge system is installed. In trying to keep everything stealthy as possible, the big red button that comes in the kit was not acceptable. I opted to remove the cig lighter and install a black and chrome momentary switch button for the purge in it's Place. Looks pretty good there. The bottle heater switch is mounted next to the Mallory on the heater box under the dash and the power indicator light is near it. The intent of the build is to conceal the N2O as much as possible, and of coarse it is as clean of an install as possible. I have a gym duffle bag with the bottom cut out which conceals the bottle in the trunk for fun, N20 supply line runs along the frame rail on the drivers side, concealed in black loom behind the factory fuel lines to the N2O solenoid behind the Q Jet. The purge solenoid is teed in and 1/4" steel line (in black loom) evacuates into the wiper well of the cowl.] A remote discharge line for the bottle pressure relief valve evacuates N2O out of the trunk in the event bottle pressure exceeds the safe level An in line secondary Carter electric fuel pump is installed in between the factory steel fuel lines where the factory splices with a small section of rubber. When the N2O is armed, the secondary fuel pump engages and supplies guaranteed fuel pressure through the Stage 1 mechanical fuel pump. I drilled and tapped the secondary throats of the Q-Jet my pal Dave Knutsen built for me and fit the wet injectors which take N2O and Fuel from the solenoids. Fuel pressure regulator for fuel injectors solenoid, with gauge for fine tuning Here is how it works all in a millisecond: Arm the system - bottle open and at PSI. At Wide Open Throttle (WOT switch mounted on the Q-Jet throttle cable bracket), if OMRON switch is closed (clutch out) -> GO, system checks the fuel pressure switch, only while fuel is at or greater than 6psi -> OK, Mallory window minimum 3k rpm -> GO, Mallory retards timing 10* deg,-> GO, rev to 5000 rpm and/or Shift OMRON Switch and /or Mallory cuts off N2O, repeat as desired.
Hello Fellas, General Discussion Time: The set up I am starting with for the 455 has a supply of four each jets to choose from sized, 0.028", 0.036", 0.040" and .060". I have the secondary or N20 fuel supply regulated initially at 6.5 psi. and the fuel pumps to guarantee that. Keep In mind, the set up is using Jay's old set up, which is two Fuel & N2O injectors, one each directly into the back of each secondary of the Q Jet. AT WOT, this injection will boost significant air into the intake (with the fuel and N2O mix injected) after the Q-Jet metered it's needs for fuel dump in. As the air hits, the Q Jet is going to want to add more fuel so a richer condition should result and keep on that calling until off the WOT, right? The link to the calculator above may not quite consider the comparable set up, but using the "2 Injector Setting", at 6.5 PSI, entering in the four jet sizes noted above, calculates the fuel jet will want to be 0.003" - 0.004" sizes smaller the N2O, until the N2O jet gets up to 0.060" then the fuel jet fell back 0.007" smaller. That said the calculator provided the following estimates in "HP" gain. (Why doesn't it provide the power in torque?) 0.028" N2O / 0.025" Fuel = 70 motor / 60 wheel 0.036" N2O / 0.032" Fuel = 117 motor / 99 wheel 0.040" N2O / 0.036" Fuel = 144 motor / 122 wheel 0.060" N2O / 0.053" Fuel = 325 motor / 276 wheel I decided to call the fine fellows at Nitrous Supply (NS) today and get their take on estimated HP or Torque by jetting options. I want to share this information for us to kick around as it varies greatly from the info the calculator derived, but again, I don't know if the "2 injector" setting option the calculator has is a accurate representation of the two injector style the system. Here is what NS estimated the system would do based on jet sizing (x2 injectors): 0.018" N2O / 0.016" Fuel = 100 motor / 90 wheel 0.022" N2O / 0.020" Fuel = 130 motor / 125 wheel What says the informed group here? I want to start the tune at 75 shot or so and work up to a point I am good with the limits of the set up (until I pop in the forged slug engine) Incidentally, since it is only a couple bucks a jet, and I am over the top, based on that chat I had with the trusted boys at NS, I decided to have a pair each of 0.016" through 0.024" jets on hand.I want to be prepared to dyno tune one weekend soon.... and figure the lower the jet 0.001" increments makes a smaller gain difference as it gets bigger incrementally say over 0.024"..... Thoughts?
Anyone gonna chime in? I Haven't dyno tuned yet, waiting to get the cross over x exhaust installed in a couple weeks. It seems to really go like hell with the 0.036" N2O and 0.036" fuel jets just romping around on the streets but I have not driven it like I will at the track. I have blown though about 4 lbs just powering through 2nd gear a few times last weekend ripping around the island which is a blast!
Very cool, thanks for sharing your setup it is very well done! Nitrous is an awesome power adder and Paul is the MAN!
I don't know HOW I missed this thread. I just went through a nitrous install on my 455 and you answered a few of the question I had. What are you doing for fuel now? Robb MC through carter? Which carter electric? You decided to pull through the electric with mechanical at all times, even when off?
I have been pulling with mechanical through the electric if just putting around but it starves at WOT, so I usually run the electric at all times. What i have works, but it is a bandaid approach. I am upgrading to RobMC 1100 and 1/2" fuel supply from the tank.Rob sells 1/2" replacement pickup/return/sender for the stock tank. The 1100 which is adjustable makes12.5 psi and will suffice for all the fuel needs. I wont run the electric at all And take it out of the system. Will Regulate fuel for the qjet, a return line to tank and split to regulator for N20 feed is the plan. Ill update this thread when i make the change.
Do not know what is in there now that was 20 years ago. Have Forged pistons with valve reliefs. The only reason I did it was the gang around here was pro charging it.
I'd be happy to chime in! (My opinion is worth what you've paid for it...) Sorry I don't know about your particular setup, but since the upgrade to forged pistons is in the future I'm going to assume that you are starting with a stock engine. I don't really have an opinion about the jet sizes there, except that jets are usually paired (a certain size for the nitrous, paired with a certain size for fuel, based on a fuel pressure and nitrous bottle pressure dictated by the system supplier). I don't know who "Jay" is, so there is probably a lot of detail that I don't have. I wouldn't bother messing with jet sizes like that. Instead, start with the manufacturer's recommendation (perhaps 0.024" & 0.026" or whatever), and turn it on a dyno. Then on a back-to-back run, make a very small tweak to something (maybe go from 6.5PSI fuel to 6.3PSI fuel), and overlay the torque curves (forget about HP) from each run to see what is happening. The engine will tell you what it wants. If you want to test each pair of jets individually, and document the correct pressure settings for each pair, that would be ideal - but bring a LOT of nitrous (3 or 4 bottles) and plan to spend a bunch of time on the dyno. To me, once you have the optimal setting on one pair, I would ASSUME that larger jets would also have used the same pressures for fuel and nitrous. How will you be maintaining consistent bottle pressure? If you have 825 on one run, and 950 on a different run, then any attempt at tuning is essentially futile. (Maybe that is part of "Jay's" setup?) Also, don't forget that when you tune nitrous you might want to back timing off even more for better torque. A nitrous-enhanced combustion will be faster than just air/fuel alone, and you want to time your peak cylinder pressure to hit at the right time (which is a different approach to tuning than just air/fuel where you basically want to be on the verge of knock). What will your spark plug heat range be?
My setup. I just put the big jets in and let it rip. I'd go through 1/2 a bottle on the way to dinner:laugh: :laugh:..That's how the turbo car came about. I got tired of filling the bottle. Was that optimum?? We shall never know. Was it a wild ride?? Well, we do nkow the answer to that..:3gears:
The fuel system upgrade is now complete with a complete-8 fuel supply, Robb Mc set up installed. -8 tank pickup, ball style shut off valve for supply line, 100 micron filter, 1100 pump, 40micron filter, 1050 regulator, -8 to carb, -4 to N2O fuel supply regulator, -4 Vapor Return to tank. Tank pickup Under hood lines loomed
Hi Jay, progression....I am staying clean for now, and thanks for the support. Yes, I sacrificed some stealth to keep it on the road for the time being, but the master plan to revisit stealth when I swap the engine out for the forged mill and put the built Quick Performance 9" 3.7 rear to handle it all.. http://www.quickperformance.com/GM-A-Body-68-72-Complete-9-Rearend_c_537.html I will not loose sight of Stealth when the hood is open...or as the Skylark flies away from an unsuspecting competitor.. Cheers!
