---------- Post added at 07:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:14 PM ---------- Some more pics of Guy's car: ---------- Post added at 07:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:30 PM ---------- Some more pics of Guy's car: ---------- Post added at 07:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:30 PM ---------- ---------- Post added at 07:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:50 PM ----------
And here was the car before Guy got a hold on it! ---------- Post added at 08:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:13 PM ---------- Here is a good book. This is where I started with my nitrous learnings. There are a bunch of threads in the sticky above regarding shooting nitrous on a stock Buick 350 so that is a good resource as well. http://www.amazon.ca/Nitrous-Oxide-...=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1331950076&sr=1-2 Unless you are like 99% of the people who DO want thier low RPM throttle response. They love a shot of nitrus... This is all through stock manifolds and dual 2.25 exhaust Info on how the 750 holley was jetted: The car is currently jetted with 71n and 63f and it hauls A$$!!! I have made many small changes to the car. My current limiting factor is the Nitrous solinoid failed on my cheater system and I currently have a Superpower shost solinoid on the car. I'm trying to borrow a solinoid so I can hit the car with the 250 shot. I've got Greg Welds on the car, 15x10 rear and 15x3.5 front. 28x10.50 Mickey thompsons ET drags. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=73182&highlight=alive http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=167545&highlight=nitrous And guys combo: Here are some more tips: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=110669&highlight=nitrous+350 http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=86721&highlight=nitrous+350 http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=110669&highlight=nitrous+350 http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=86721&highlight=nitrous+350 -- I am pretty sure the peaky parts on the chassis dyno run were due to the torque converter coupling under load. I do not think that the actual HP and TQ are peaky like that on the track.
Thanks for posting pics Sean. Did you notice the lift outside in the yard. My Grandfather had that put in a long time ago. It has not been up in a while but I am sure it still works. It has been there for over 50 years. You should see the air compressor that runs it. That is just as old too and still works.
OK..... Am going into the nitrous world.......Do I, Start with a 50 shot and jet way up to see how it responds ? Have to remember I am at 11-1 and alot of motor with my now to be installed shortly 3400 stall converter and 3.92 gears it's all gonna happen fast so, I am new to nitrous and really would rather not trash this motor yet. Am thinking I should retart to about 30 total and try from there ???
Go with at least a 75 shot, you wont feel anything less. My total timing is at 32 and I pull 4 out with the 125 shot. Make sure you have a gauge on the bottle because you do not want it going much over 1000 lbs. pressure. 950 is about perfect, I always make sure the gas silinoid works by not opening the bottle and actuating the switch to make sure the gas shoots in, it will start to stall the car from the excess gas. I do it at ide and ou can tell instantly if the silinoid is working. I use a throttle switch on the carb so I can do it right there and I can hear if the gas is feeding. Then go turn the bottle on and go and have fun. I always run in second gear first when I hit the throttle to the floor to make sure every thing is good then I stop and mash the thing. The plugs should not be the extended type and NGK works the best and I run 1 number to the colder side. A 0.35 gap seems to work the best. Go to that website on spark plugs and read up on it. You will be fine I have hit the rev limiter out of low gear at 6200 rpm Shift at 5500 it will get there real quick. Like I said do 2nd gear first to get the feel of it.
Very Cool...Thanks!! I run the ngk colder plug anyways so that is good to know. Can't wait till I get it going !!
Thats my biggest concern.... Right now I run pump gas and have no det probs as I am running a bit rich on the mains and secondaries as well as colder plugs and with the gears I have I am keeping my load down I believe. But....I agree with you that with nitrous I may have to run av gas or race gas...
DO NOT RUN AV GAS WITH NITROUS If you have a true 11-1 then i would mix some 108 race fuel in -like a 50-50 mix with 91 pump fuel Then whatever you run for base timing now,i would pull 10 degrees and start with lets say a 62 n jet and a 52 fule jet at 5-3/4 fuel psi to start with That will get you a honest 125-130 hp tune up and you probably will still need to tune it to get it truly clean but itll be a good safe start You need to understand,all plate systems are jetted waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay rich out of the box,and contrary to public myth,a rich tune up will hurt the motor way faster than a lean one people need to now that if a systyem is way lean,there is no fuel to burn Well,if you have no fuel,you have no burn/fire as it takes fuel to make power,not air Ive had fuel solenoids fail to work on a fogger on a 400hp setting on a mid 8 sec car and gone down the trakc with nos on only Car went sloerr and felt weird,so i let off, but nothing was damaged Thats because you cant have a fire with no fuel! Most backfires at the line are due to poor airspeed in the motor when nitrous is activated at the line,not going lean How can you have a fireball if the engines lean?The fire means there IS FUEL PRESENT! Also when you are rich,you are getting fuel behind the top ring and over time you will start to lift ring lands Then waht happens is you start to burn oil and when it gets in the cylinder it lowers octane so you detonate even sooner Then when you finally knock a hole in a piston or lift a ring land you blame it on the tune up being lean So u go back and add more fule and now you make the problem even worse YOU want a clean tune up ,and with that you wil need to pull more timing to help keep the heat out of the cylinder timing is about heat in your cylinder having somewhwere to go,not only in power production Adding timing is cheap so go slow and makes half track passes to start and look at all your plugs and your mph Its cheaper to add timing than add pistons As your tune ups get bigger,you also change cam timing to help get heat out of the cylider as well Good luck
Nice job Nick, my research says you are exactly right. I know the manufactures stay on the more fuel side when they give their tune ups. The key like Nick says is just pull more timing out. Usually what happens when you are lean there is a lot of timing still there and that sends the engine into detonation. You will know if something is not right you will hear it and feel it. My jetting was 55 gas 62 nos 6psi on fuel pressure at 1000 nos pressure. The dyno sheet I have with the rear wheel my A/F ratio is at 11 Carb was jetted 70-76 (750 Holley). I was running 28 on the total timing. Normal timing on mine is no more than 34. I never went past a 7 jet spread so I can not tell you if going 10 jets is correct. But pulling a lot of timing out will keep the bad demons out. That is a fact. Here is what it says on my calibration card for the Nitrous Works set up. 125 hp shot 62 nos 57 gas only 5psi fuel pressure, 150 hp 73 nos 63 fuel 5psi. 125 hp nos 62 gas jet 43 fuel pressure 6.75. 175 hp 72 nos 52 gas 7.5 fuel pressure. 75 shot 46 nos 40 fuel 5psi You plug those numbers into that chart I have in the beginning you will not get these numbers. Looks like the more fuel pressure you push the less fuel jet you need. I can tell you that I am probably giving mine too much fuel. Nick I have to ask then I melted a plug once and I thought I had not given the engine enough fuel. I was trying a 150 shot but what I did was not change the fuel jet when I made the changes. This is the time I had stock plugs in and I found out that I went lean on #2 and #4 cyl. Are you saying what I needed to do was just pull more timing out? I went back to my 125 shot set up but I was only going 5 number spread then. It wasn't till I went with the 7 jet spread that I went from 12.20 to 11.90 ET that was after I had the car on the RW dyno. The AF was at 11 with their dyno. Oh yeah I forgot do not run the AV gas the formula is not correct even for a normal motor Get Race Gas 50-50 mix will work. I was running 15 gal 94 Sunnoco and 114 Race gas 5 gal. .
This $.02 may be worth even less than that, but I believe that I once read to be careful using a WB O2 for nitrous tune-up A/F adjustment because it will not read correctly with nitrous. I don't know why that is which is why I'm being careful to say I don't know if this is true. Can anyone confirm if that is true or not?
Ii AGREE WITH THE ABOVE STATEMANT I may sound like a broken record,but especially with any power,adder learn to read spark plugs The plug will NEVER LIE TO YOU about what the motor wants Even if your plugs look different than your buddies,they still will look inline when its all correct and will let you know when things are not happy Buddy called me from the track today,he was tuning on his fogger kit He had a 4 jet spread and was at 6psi fuel I had him pull out 3/4 pd of fuel psi,and take an additional 3 degrees timing out Car picked up 2.5 mph and 1.5 tenths-9.34@147 to a 9.19@149.66 When they are clean they are mean but you need to compensate on timing as well D/A was 7700 ft So much for good spring air lol
I should neither confirm nor deny at this time that this particular set up is heading my way for the Street Sleeper car :bla:
