Need some advice for rebuilding 77 350 please

artic white with black trim and stripe chrome bumpers.

 

Haha i just seen chrome wrap on summit racing..
Cool thread. Nust read through it good advice already given.

Id also note that you may want to buy head studs from ta performance
Theyll also save the threads ontop of the obvious benefits of studs vs bolt

 

I need to know what type of pistons rings I need to buy. Since I will be using the 3.0L Flattop V6 Pistons do I need to purchase two sets of rings for those? I am able to get the two extra pistons separately as I stated above, but pistons rings only come in sets.

So do I need two sets of rings for the 3.0 V6 Pistons or am I able to use STD Buick 350 pistons rings? Are they the same rings or different? They are for the same size cylinder bore but I don't know if the slots for the rings in the pistons are deeper, etc?o No:o No:o No:


Thanks!

 

If the seller only sells packages of 6 rings then buy a second set, it is not much extra cash and you will have a few spare rings in case you break one. At least then you got the pistons and rods from the same place and they are going to match up or it is their problem...

I buy Buick V6 pistons as a set of 4 and then there is enough to build 3 Buick 350s.

 

Thanks Sean! Yes I guess Ill have a few left over but that is not a bad thing.

 

have you bought a 4bbl carb yet?
if not check out the Street demon carb, kind of like a carter ThermoQuad/Rochester Q-jet Hybrid, has dual flange mounting and can be had with either AL bowl or aerospace Plastic bowl

 

I have a few Q-Jets I might play with, but none of them are off a Buick 350, so I might have to get a 4bbl and rebuild it but that's no big deal.

Just ordered the Flat-top V6 Pistons, rings, engine gasket set, header bolts, and new valve covers.

Stay tuned for the reassembly.:TU:

 

Here are the flat top pistons and rings. Pistons and rings only cost $160.00. What a steal!:TU:

 

Do you feel better about going with these pistons then shaving the heads lots to get compression?

 

Andy,

I think the pistons & rings were a better way for me to go. I had to take the crank out of the engine anyways in order to install the cam bearings. After playing around with the calulations I figured out that even if I shave .050 off the heads that I would still achieve about 9.0:1, so for about the same overall price of getting the heads shaved I could swap in these pistons and get a compression ratio for around 10.0:1 by eliminating the deep dish from these 77 pistons.

Will still be using the bearings that came out of the bottom end and reassemble the engine the way it came apart aside from the new pistons.

 

You know you really should hone the cylinders so the new rings can seat properly.FYI

A ball hone with a drill motor will work to do this. Its a little messy so the block will need to be cleaned afterwards,and when your doing it you'll want it disassembled to just the block.GL

Derek

 

The ball hone will put a quick hone on cylinder just do a few seconds in each cylinder so not to take out too much metal and use a lot of lube on hone.then pressure wash block so you have a clean block to put back together. get a rear main kit.don't use old stuff it will just cause a headache later.

 

http://www.amazon.com/95mm-Flex-Hon...indust_10?ie=UTF8&refRID=1PR5TWTJHJR182P1R747

---------- Post added at 05:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:12 PM ----------

http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.p...tructions&highlight=rear seal main replacemen

 

Don't buy the ball hone in Sean's post,the diameter is to small,get one that is 4.00" diameter,bigger will work,smaller won't.


And when you ball hone the cylinders don't worry about taking to much material out,a ball hone will only put the scratches the rings will need to seat(unless you hone one cylinderfor like 20 minutes,it shouldn't make the bore bigger). It will take more than a couple of seconds per cylinder,I think Andy meant a couple of minutes per cylinder. And yes,you need to use oil when you're honing it,when you're done you want to see the hone scratches at around a 45 degree X pattern from each other(the up stroke vs the down stroke scratches). To get a 45 degree X pattern you will need to move the hone up and down in the bore,the faster the drill motor spins the faster you will need to go up and down to get the right pattern.

You'll want all of the shine(or glaze) to be gone when you are done,and don't worry so much about getting all the way to the bottom where the rings don't ride on.(you should be able to see where the rings stop in the bores before you start)GL

Derek

 

It's been a little bit since I updated this thread....So to bring it up to speed here's where I am...
I had the 3.0 V6 pistons with new rings pressed on the rods from the 1977 block I am using. I'll upload a few pictures shortly.

I also had the crank checked for straightness, journals cleaned out, and polished. I need to get a STD new set of Main Bearings.

Can anyone advise me here.... TA sells a set for $110.00. I found a set here however.... http://www.buickfarm.net/index.php?option=com_redshop&view=product&pid=65&Itemid=101

That set from Buick Farm only lists engines 1966-1976. I have a 1977, and I thought the bearings were the same for all 350 engines up to 1981?
I would like to buy this set because they are NOS STD size for a good price. Thanks for any help!:TU:

Getting close to reassembly!!:3gears:

 

$160 gets you a re-ring kit for a Buick 350 5.7 ('68-81) All, Vin "B", "H", "J", "X":


Call them and I am sure they will sell the main bearings alone.

http://www.flatlanderracing.com/

 

Sean, I already have a new set on rings on the new pistons. Just need to know if the Main Bearings are the same for all 350s ('68-'81).

Thanks!

Here are a few pictures of the new pistons and rings on the rods!

 

You can get clevite or federal mogul bearing from any parts store.I would mill that block .030 to pump up compression though. Just my thoughts.

 

Yes the main bearings are the same from 68-81 however beware of the 66-76 listing ass there were no Buick 350 engines in 66 and 67 so there is something up with the bearing description. Either wrong bearing or wrong description.

 

Thanks guys!

I'll look a little closer into the part number.

I am using an earlier set of heads with a smaller combustion chamber. These are flat top pistons, so I should have a compression ratio around 10.0:1, even though the deck height on the 77 blocks are high. I don't want it to be too high since I am just using the car for street use. Anything between 9.0:1 - 10.5:1 I'll be happy with. When I get the pistons in the block I will verify this and figure out the real compression and how low these pistons sit in the block.


Thanks!