Lets talk nitrous on stock intake: what works

Sounds like a rear control arm issue. Maybe too soft a bushing or a bushing going bad. Do you have the GS upper control arm brace on your frame?


Parts list:
NS-08002-Powerstar Kit
NS-23716-Fine Plume SS Nozzle
NOS-15020-2ea but to a custom length of 6" Blue hose
NOS-15021-2ea but to a custom length of 6" Red hose
NOS-17255-Flare jet Y fitting- Blue
NOS-17256-Flare Jet Y fitting- Red
NS-25750-Fuel Safety Shut-off 5psi Normally Open

 

I have hop stop bars on that are solid on top with the original upper bars with them. My lower control arms are boxed in and I have a large sway bar attached to them. I have poly bushings on all the parts. I was told that maybe I need to change the pinion angle some. I probably need some adjustable uppers to do this. I think that maybe one of the poly bushings have worn out but not sure yet. Does seem like the problem is getting worse. This sure takes away the fun factor with the nitrous. I was not sure what you ment by GS upper control arm brace. Can you tell me more info on this?

 

The brace is a bar that connects the mount of the upper control arms to the frame bolts of the lower control arm. I believe some of the nice A-body control arm kits comes with this brace.

 

I have never seen or heard of this before. Do you happen to know where I can see or get one of these parts at? This sounds like a good part to have on the car. So if I am reading this correctly this will connect the two parts of the frame together from the upper control arm to the lower control arm. I usually try to do as much research on parts as much as I can guess I must have missed that one.

 

For ME!!!!:TU:

 

Here you go...

http://www.globalwest.net/1964-72_C...ody_Rear_tubular_control_arms_and_braces..htm

Yes, for you...:Brow:

 

That was a very good idea.

THey do make permitter plates now that spray all around.
If there was any flat spot on a side, you could adjust jetting or spray in just that area or restrict in others.

 

It's for a square bore. Won't work.. I haven't seen one for a spreadbore. We talked about tapping a 1" spreadbore spacer, but then you have issues with the choke linkage and the fast idle solenoid for the AC.. And the GS air cleaner..

 

Buicks4Speed; Thank you very much for the info that looks like a nice set up. That is one thing that I can say I had never seen before. Have you been to the track lately with the big block and the nitrous blast. I know you were kicking total butt with that setup. :beers2:

 

That Global West web sit is a really nice site. I use that negative roll set up on my car now with the Camaro spindle set up and disc brakes. But now this system is so much nicer now. Mine originally came from HO Racing but you just got the poly bushings, large sway bars and stiffer and lowered springs. The car does handle real good in the corners but the poly bushings are noisy and cranky and probably stiff on the suspension. This is probably why I am having trouble with the rear end hopping around at launch. Maybe it's time for a better system.

 

Been to the track but having a hard time getting the 400+ HP nitrous hit down the track. It seems I got a bad set of new tires that I will be replacing when it cools off enough to go. Seems they can be too soft.....

 

I never did post a picture of this kit installed. This is the kit that Rick put together for me. It works great after I got all of the fuel pressure issues solved. I installed a booster electric pump that feeds the mechanical, and I had to block off the return line on the mechanical.

Pretty straightforward setup. Drill and tap two holes in the back of the carb. I installed the whole system without poking any other holes in the car. The bottle is in an insulated rubbermaid container strapped down in the trunk with a bottle warmer. The only problem I have is that the bottle keeps running outou: ..

 

Not sure why my pics didn't show up.. I'll try again..

 

Jay how's the distribution look on the plugs with that setup? On my plate system I've got 2 lean cylinders but that is an intake flaw. Also how big of a hit have you tried so far? I saw you post a thread about the frustration of getting your nitrous fills, that sucks.

Oh and get that thing to the track they've got to still be open down by you for a little bit yet.

 

Go lease a 75 lb nitrous bottle from a welding supply and fill them yourself. All you need is some ice water in a bucket and they will fill to 10lbs. Works for me, as long as the mother bottle isn't frozen too. I put a cheap heater on mine.

 

I wonder if you could just put the 75 pounder in your car.:Brow:

 

Any idea what that would cost??? Wouldn't I need some special fittings and a pump of some type???

 

I've never sprayed it and then stopped immediately to look at the plugs. I wouldn't really know what to look for anyway. And.. The plugs on the AC side of the car aren't exactly easy to get to. The biggest hit I have tried so far is 2x36 on gas and 2x36 on nitrous. Rick said is probably about 80-100HP.

The tracks around here probably never close for the season.

 

Only the bottle weighs 250+ lbs!!!:shock

All you need is a few short high press #4 line , high pressure brass on/off ball valve, a #4 bottle fitting like the one that screws on a standard 10LB nitrous bottle, a bucket of ice water(or frozen bottle), and a scale so you know when it is full. A cheap 120v bottle heater pad will help too if your filling outside in the winter. My bottle is in the garage so when it is cold or when to bottle is close to empty, the heater helps get more out of the bottle.

When you empty the 75 lb bottle, go back to the welding store and swap it out for a full one. Go on e-bay and get a couple of cheep 10lb bottles to keep full on the side. I got 4....could use 2 more...

 

I would like to see some more nitrous 350s, they love the gas!