I would run at least a 180 if not the stock 195. Getting the engine hot reduces engine wear and burns off contaminants in the oil.
I agree with Jason, If you run an engine cool the oil will sludge and moisture will not burn off. I always run the degree thermostat that was OE on the engine.
Oil picks up its temperature from contact with internal engine parts and from being compressed and pressurized in the engine. It will get hot enough to burn off water that condenses overnight. Short trip driving will allow the contaminates to accumulate to a greater degree. A 160* stat will allow the engine to run cooler in summer weather and can help in an engine with propensity to run hot. In the winter, I run a 180* stat because in my engine, the engine will run very cool (135-140*) I like about 170*, that is perfect IMHO.
it will run cooler with a 160 stat, but I don't think you'll "feel" any difference in terms of performance between the two.
I have a 160 that was alredy installed.. What was stock?? 180*. I just installed a temp gauge and it rarely gets past 155 or so. I was thinking this was way too low. I know that getting the engine warm will reduce wear..
Swappin to 180 tomorrow.. Would have been better today while all the coolant was in a drain pan:laugh:
There are a lot of experts on the web. I like to look around and make up my own mind. Heres what a parts place said. These 160 low-temp thermostats dramatically reduce your engines operating temperatures, improving performance and extending component longevity. This new thermostat replaces the factory unit, allowing coolant to circulate at lower engine temperatures, keeping the engine cooler. Not legal for use on pollution controlled vehicles. Application: For 2004-2006 LS1/LS2 models of the GTO, 2004-2007 Corvette & full size Trucks/SUV's equipped with 4.8, 5.3L, and 6.0L engines Tony.p
Engine oil runs 40-50 degrees hotter than your coolant temp. You want the oil temp to reach a temperature of 212 degrees or more (the boiling point of water) I run all my cars at approx 190 degrees. Gets everything nice and hot.
Nice and hot brings the engine closer to detonation range. The oil does not need to get to the boiling point of water to purge said water or gas for that matter.
Larry good point. I run a 160 degree thermostat and get plenty heat in the winter. I just switched over to prestone antifreeze. The car runs about 155 to 165 in the cooler weather. In the summer on the hottest day when crusing its about 185 to 190. I did install a declutching fan from a 454 truck that has helped -I also use water wetter. My problem is when I m in traffic witht he a/c going--tops out at 215 220 ---better than 235 240...
Want power? Run the engine as hot as it can tolerate without detonating, run the air into the engine as cool as possible. The killer is when steam pockets begin to form in the passages around the exhaust valve, which allow big temp spikes causing detonation. Reducing the surface tension of the water can help this (water-wetter, for instance). Run the highest pressure cap that the radiator itself can handle. Reverse cooling makes it even easier to do it, but that's for another discussion! Devon
I had a 160 in my car for the past few years. I just changed it out for a 180 because the oil was getting dirty so quickly. It also accumulates moisture and volatiles (i.e. unburnt fuel) if the temperature doesn't get hot enough. Oil has detergents that are optimized for engine temperatures. Most engines run much hotter nowadays, therefore the oils are optimized for an engine temperature around 200 or so. BTW I strongly disagree with the contention that having the engine run too cold will "extend component life", as claimed above. That's all I will say because it's a long complicated explanation.
I took New York Larry's (& Karl Bowe's local distributor-tuner/drag racer guru) advise and changed out my (455 stage 1 GSX bored 40 over) from a 180 degree to a 160 degree stat. This stopped my detonation problem...period. So ...my choice is... to eliminate the detonation as my cars temp was running as high as 210. Now with the alum. radiator and the 160 degree stat. this car is running the best it ever has at 170 degrees And the heater works great just as before. Getting rid of detonation and preventing an engine failure is more important to me than the story of burning off oil contaminates. Each car must me treated differently depending on what the circumstances are. In my case...it's a 40 over block with shaved heads hotter cam , ported exhaust manifolds and... Thanks Larry for the advice on what to try! :TU: Eric/ Oregon :3gears:
I run a 160° stat after years of getting hot in traffic. With high flow electric fan it runs at about 160-165 in most conditions. In traffic the temp might "skyrocket" to 185! If keeping my engine cool, where it runs the best, doesn't ping, starts up great even after lugging around town, means I need oil changes more often then so what! The car runs just how I like it. I also run synthetic on account of my journal bearing turbos.
