I know of one friend who is using the SP1 in a 67. Fits with the 2" drop base air cleaner. I've never heard anything good about the S Divider. I'm sure the Edelbrocks would be better, but I'm not sure if you would really feel it or not. The SP1 is the best intake bar none IMHO.
If that Lasabre is the vehicle you want to put it in the B4B for low end torque is the best choice. I run one in my 78 regal runs 11.60 @ 116 MPH never rev it more than 5500 RPM 1.58 sec. - 60ft times. I am testing a TA SP1 as soon as I put the engine back in the car, I will let you know if and where it improves performance. Weekender
I'm sure there as many opinions about this subject as there are members on this board. So why not throw out mine, ran both the B4B and the Poston on my 455 which was about 390 horsepower. Couldn't really tell the difference between the two by the seat of the pants method or at the dragstrip. The car was affected more by the size carburator than the intake, but that will vary with the engine. Get the B4B, it will be easier to sell should you ever decide to.
I just read on a Hemming newsletter that Edelbrock is now producing new B4B's again which are like the originals.
I recall seeing a post (or webpage) with results of a comparison between intake manifolds. The S-Divider and SP1 were involved for sure. The test was performed by an independant shop but I thought the results were posted on the T/A site. I can't find any reference to it now. Anyone know where to find this? Kevin
ON T/A's website http://www.taperformance.com/s_p.htm on the bottom right there are links for dyno tests with different intakes, here is one of there links, there are others on the page as well....http://www.taperformance.com/dynoruns.htm
sorry left & right mixed up, The links are at the top left and bottom left sorry http://www.taperformance.com/dynoruns.htm
Has anyone seen a dyno test between the Edelbrock B4B or Performer against the Poston S-Divider intakes? If so, is there a link to it?
You might have included "stock" as a option. I think its better than a couple of the choices on the list. For most builds, I'd go with SP1. I know single planes might cost a little low end torque, but with our motors...
The only intake I've ever tried besides stock, is the B4B. Anything else taller would give me hood clearance problems, and I don't want to cut my hood. If I could have a nice functional GN/T-TYPE buldge in my Electra hood, THEN I'll step up to a SP1. ElectraJim
how would you guys describe the offenhauser 360...is this a good performance intake...i have seen all other t/a intakes and edelbrock intakes sell on ebay with the same success and price as the offenhauser intake so that means people outhere are still buying them.
I very rarely see an Offy 360 on a BBB. The last one I saw was on a 69 GS400 that a friend bought. The 400 had a mild cam with headers, the Offy, and an 850 Holley DP. It ran pig rich, fouled the plugs, and was a pain to start. We replaced the Offy and Holley with a stock cast Iron intake and a jetted Q-jet. It was a different car altogether. The Offy 360 is a single plane intake. I think the TA SP1 is vastly superior to it. For a mild motor, stay with the stocker or get an Edelbrock.
Well, it has been awhile since this thread has had anyone post, so I though I better ask a question about my Poston S-Divider and see how many "I told you so" answers I get. My manifold was purchased many years ago by an uncle who was building a 430 for his 49 Jeepster (He and his friends did alot of trail driving in Colorado). He never finished it, and is now deceased, and I ended up with most of the parts he was going to use in the Jeepster. This intake has only been out of the box a few times to look it over, and has never been installed on an engine (there is still casting sand falling out of it and into the box). In the process of getting parts ready for my +.030 455 engine, I decided to lay an old metal intake gasket onto it and see how well the ports lined up. I painted the intake gasket black to make it easier to see against the aluminum manifold. I also put the gasket onto a stock 76 cast iron intake to see what the difference would be. Boy, was I in for a shock! The first 3 pictures below show the stock 455 intake, 1 showing all the way across, and 2 showing closer views of the intake ports and the gasket. It looks like there is less than .125" of material past the gasket opening at each of the intake ports. The next 6 pictures show the same views on both sides of the Poston S-Divider manifold. I was very careful to align the bolt holes in the gasket with the bolt holes in the manifold, but something is WAAAAYYYY OFF!!! Have any of you guys running the S-Divider encountered similar problems? There is plenty of meat in the casting to open up the ports, but I am not sure I want to waste all that time. The alternative is to buy another brand of intake (probably an Edelbrock, as the T/A SP1 won't fit under the hood of my 67 Riviera). I am going to try to send these pictures to Poston as well to ask them about the terrible port alignment on this intake. Not sure what they will say about it. Later, Randy
Nice pics, compared to the Poston that I had those ports line up to the gasket pretty well. Mine had two ports that were low about a sixteenth toward the eng cam. Had to have the floor of thoseports welded and port all of them. Why didn't I send it back' well I'd had it on my engine for a couple of years when I discovered it. It ran a little better than the stock on my engine and about the same as the B4B. Course thats all relitive to the engine and rear combination and tuning which I freely admit knowing little about. I think the Poston design is good but the manufacture leaves a lot to be desired. Also I tried calling Poston about a nonfitting part once and they didn't want to talk to me, yes I was calm and nice on the phone. D Berry
D Berry, that really wasn't what I wanted to hear, but I guess you pay your dues and take your chances. Only one of the ports seems to be lower than the gasket, but I think that is one too many. Considering the varying sizes and how small the cross-sectional area is on the port openings, I cannot believe this manifold would flow any better than the stock intake. How much did it cost to have yours repaired and port matched? I can get mine welded no problem at work, but I would have to do the port work myself unless I can find a way to jig this thing up in our Haas vertical mill and rough out the ports so they are all the same size and in the right locations. Even that would be difficult considering the ports in the stock heads come out at approximately a 17 degree angle instead of perpendicular to the gasket surface. Of course, it never hurts to learn how to do the porting, and the worst I can do is screw it up and have to buy a new manifold anyway. Thanks for your input, Randy
Randy I had mine welded by a friend who,s a welder by trade. He did the job leaving a minimum of metal above the gasket surface. I ported to within a sixteenth of the gasket opening on all ports. The hard part was the gasket surface, I used a 12 inch fine cut bastard file to finish it out. Everyone I talked to said it couldn't be done without getting leaks, but I never had any when I was done. Just lucky I guess, and I definatly would NOT recomend anyone trying this method, just too many things that can go wrong. My thought was that I had nothing to lose if I destroyed it, just throw it in with the aluminum cans. Good luck! D Berry
Dave, I might get away without welding the one port, but I doubt it. I agree, making the port size about a sixteenth of an inch smaller than the gasket opening on all four sides is a good idea to allow for any misalignment of the gasket during assembly, especially if early heads are used with the smaller intake bolts. I just have a hard time believing that Poston would let a product get out of their factory that was so far off in the first place. This is a mold pattern issue, and it should have been resolved before they ever did any production runs. I know if the foundry we use was over a quarter of an inch off with a non-machined opening on our aluminum castings, they would be melting them down and doing them again. I sure hope their camshafts are better than their intake castings, as I am also using a GS-116 cam in my 455. Later, Randy
Yards, is it true that the carb sits 1" or so closer to the front of the motor on the B4B intake compared to stock?
Hey guys What intake manifold do you recommend fora : 69 400cui engine Fulllength headers with X 2.5" TA Stage 1 portet cylinderheads Cam TA 212 Ram air must supported! Thanks for the help Robert
