I just looked through the TA site and couldn't find any ?? Walt, thanks for finding that contact for me. Doc, your idea to consider. :gp:
Can you remember the price please ? I have sent couple of emails to them regarding parts but they don't reply. o No: Do they require a core ?
I purchased one of the TA "nailhead" harmonic balancer a couple of years ago, a very bad experience. Was definitely poorly machined, and caused plenty of headache and extra cost. Ended up having to purchase the "high end" billet unit which was much better quality and true. Never did receive a refund, reduction, and the mis machined balancer was "lost" and I never received it back from the manufacturer either. Roger
ANY BALANCER except a STOCK replacement will have to be balanced as an assembly when the engine is being rebuilt/balanced. ANYTIME I sell a used balancer to ANYONE I ask for pictures of the front & rear of the balancer to get one as close as possible to the original. ALL "Nails" were fine balanced from the factory BEFORE being installed in a vehicle. So they are NOT all the same. If your not tearing down your "Nail" for a rebuild the only choice you have is good used or rebuilt of your ORIGINAL. Even at that you MUST make sure that the fine balance pins are re-installed in their proper locations when removed to be as accurate as possible to the original. I could go on for days about rebuilts, bonding techniques, "rubber" being used, etc. Tom T.
I'm keen to learn more about balancing Tom. External balance ----- does that mean the crankshaft is fitted in a machine and balanced with the harmonic balancer & rear flexplate / flywheel attached ? Or are those parts balanced seperately ?
Yes, they are balanced as an assembly..... the flywheel/flexplate and the front balancer must be bolted to the crank during balancing. Weights are bolted to the rod journals to simulate the weight of the rods/pistons/rings. For fine-tuning the balance....there are 12 holes drilled into the circumference of the balancer. Pins (weights) can be inserted into those holes for balancing the 'front' half of the crank. To balance the 'rear' half of the crank, holes can be drilled into the crank counterweights or into the flywheel/flexplate. If you are replacing the harmonic balancer, Tom requests the pictures so he can see where those weight 'pins' are inserted.... that should get the balance close to where it was.
Yes, that is true Ken as Walt says. I've seen many done improperly also by the guy who does the balancing not knowing about the proper indexing of the flexplate & try balancing, driving themselves crazy in the process trying. I have an assembly here now that was improperly balanced. It was less costly finding a replacement crank & rods than try fixing what was there. I've seen balancers from the factory that also had drilling from the factory on the balancer. As Walt stated the reason I ask for pictures. Tom T.
I've had a look at mine and can't see any " fine balance pins " Where would I look ? Actually I have 2 balancers here that came with the 401 in pieces so I don't know which one is original. On both balancers the rubber is hard but not displaced. Would they still function OK ?
OK what is the tool I need to measure out if my crank is messed up or if the flywheel got put on wrong like the index is off how do I check that also? I want to be able to check these things also before sending the balancer off to be rebuilt. The flywheel cover was off an in the trunk when I bought it also makes me wonder after reading some things on here. And could I start the car up with the balancer off an see if the actual crank is wobblung or would this be bad,Thank you!
it would be better to just pull the coil wire and then have someone rotate the engine while you watch the crank nose....
Yeah, spinning it with the starter would be safer. I never heard of running without the balancer, I don't think there would be problem doing that, but I won't tell you to try it. Has anyone done that? A dial indicator would be the preferred tool to measure for crank runout or bent nose. Don't forget there is the keyway slot getting in the way. You could get by with a piece of metal or stiff wire attached to a nearby bolt, with the end almost touching the side of the crank nose. Then turn the motor over by hand and see if the space between the crank and bracket/wire changes. Try to be a precise as possible.....we're looking for a difference of only a few thousandths. If you send the balancer out for a rebuild, ask if they actually measure it to see if it's bent, and if they can machine it true. Some outfits might just replace the rubber without checking it for straightness. Flexplate....you can't see the index hole with the converter in place. I'll have to check some of my stuff and find another way.... the flex plate has a solid portion, and 2 portions with large cutouts.... one of those sections should line up with the slot in the crank nose.
t won't hurt anything starting the engine as long as it's not running for more than a few seconds. But, it would be running TOO fast to make any kind of eyeball sighting. Better to crank with the starter with coil wire out as stated or a piece of wire used as a pointer as stated. The closed part of the flexplate should be located where the balance weight is located on the crank. You could also remove the bolts on the converter & move it back & you will be able, by looking closely, almost see the alignment holes. If you do send the balancer out for a rebuild take note of any balance pins in the outer ring. Some remove them & don't re-install them.
I've got 2 X balancers here. They both have the indicator timing mark in different locations. Would these be for different engines or has one of them moved ?
And, if you look closely at details you'll notice the fine balancing I'm talking about. Just about everyone is different in one way or another. That's the reason I ALWAYS ask for a picture of the old balancer. Tom T.
OK I looked at with the harmonic balancer an if I understood telriv correctly with the balancer put back on the back side of the balancer with the weight is suppose to line up with the closed part of the flexplate an with the car turned off an me sliding the balancer back on the crank one of the open sides line up with the balancer weighted side,does this mean that they put this flywheel on wrong an could be the cause? An if it was on wrong wouldn't it be shaking to bad to even drive cause mine was still drive able not vibrating the whole car jus wobbling bouncing the belts badly,thank you an I hope everyone had a fun an safe 4th of July!
