Finally got around to assessing the damage. Two broken lifters and one bent pushrod. All damage centered on cylinder number 4. I’m thinking I replace both pushrods and all of the lifters. The concern is that debris from the damage potentially fouling out other lifters once it’s all back together. Is this overkill? Larry mentioned another cam break in required since I have to replace at least one lifter. Would you guys just replace them all?
When I say broken, I mean hard broke. This is the worst one, but the other is chipped up top as well.
Finally got this thing put back together and go to start it, boom! Kicks back and breaks the nose cone of my starter. I’m reading that potentially I was the cause of this having my distributor advanced (turned counterclockwise too far) for it to light off. Am I on target for this issue gents?
Thanks Larry! New starter comes in this weekend and I’ll try again. Should I reset TDC #1 again or just try and start it while retarding the timing? Probs more conservative to just do it so I know it’s right.
I would retard it some before trying to crank it. If you have an MSD, some boxes have a start retard. It takes 20*of timing out during cranking and adds it back in when the engine gets above 800 RPM. MSD My Digital 6 box has a select able start retard. I use it because I run 34* fixed timing. It cranks at 14*.
I did find some pieces in the valley pan area when I removed the intake. I drained the oil and there wasn’t anything on my magnetic drain plug. That isn’t to say that there isn’t anything in the system. I’m going to replace this starter this weekend hopefully and then reattempt the cam break in. It has fresh oil and filter on it for this and I’ll drain it again following the thirty minutes of 2500rpm
I’ll definitely retard it a bit. I should’ve known better. I was turning the distributor while my buddy cranked it, having heard an attempt to fire off as I twisted counterclockwise, I went further. The vacuum canister was pointed at about 11 o’clock if you were sitting in the drivers seat. Before, it was more pointed at one or two o’clock, more so towards the alternator. Just a rookie mistake it seems. So I think the best answer is to remove a plug and reconfirm tdc #1 and proper distributor alignment before this go around. I’ll reprime the oil pump again too for good measure!
I just got done degreeing my 310 cam and itll be a few more weeks before I get the engine installed and running with everything else I have to do to the car. Please let me know how you like the 310 and if you have time could you post up another sound clip of it all fixed? Im curious how it sounds and revs? and RIPS! Do you have 2.5 or 3" exhaust?
Sure thing buddy! I’ll get one up once it’s all done. I have 3” true dual exhaust. Probably left some power on the table bc of that setup but it sounds nice. TA longtubes with dynamax mini race bullets!
Nice, I had a bb chevelle about 8 years ago with true dual 3" and loved the sound. My buddy mike G in topeka has a 2.5 and 3" system for me to choose from with x pipes built in, Im leaning toward 3" just because I like the sound but I dont want a bottle neck with the 2.5 either. Cant wait for the sound clip, thanks a bunch!
Finally got this car together and out for a reliability road test. Still a few issues to sort but it at least got a few miles. Here’s the video as promised:
