My math says 10.10 but it could be a rounding error and certainly close enough to your calculation. Are your pistons 23cc dished and head gasket 4.38 diamter? That's what I calculated on. Should be nice.
That’s correct for both the pistons and the gaskets. I’m hoping to feel a significant difference than the 284-88h cam and fresh irons I had before. Hopefully close to 500hp/600tq! Probably wishful, but I’m hoping!
So I’m psyching myself out with my nerves about this engine. This is only the second time I’ve ever replaced a cam. The first time was when I still had the original 350 and I hand ported my irons and put a 284-88h cam in it. This cam responded well in that engine and is why I chose it for the 455. It isn’t the same in this engine from my perspective which is part of why I changed to the TA310 and aluminum heads. The 350 just seemed to be more responsive with this 284 cam. to my issue though, I’m not certain that the adjustment to my pushrods is adequate. The lifters and cam are new, and I didn’t soak the lifters in oil prior to installing them. When I rotate the crank, none of The valves open. The lifters all sink and none of my rockers move. I put 5 quarts of oil in it and primed my oil pump with a drill until it started spewing out of my sending unit. Is something wrong?
I just don’t want to seal this intake on and there be an oversight of a task that I missed or did incorrectly. what I did was find TDC on the number 1(drivers side front) piston. I did this by setting the timing mark to zero on the TDC event where the next thing that happens in rotation was the intake valve opening. From my research, this indicated TDC of the compression stroke. Then I removed the double roller timing chain and gear and swapped the cam to the 310. After making sure everything was right, lubed, and torqued back together to include the rockers and heads, I adjusted the #1 intake and exhaust pushrods to zero lash, plus 1/8th a turn. I then tightened the lock nuts and proceeded this same action for all 7 other pistons in firing order as I moved the crank 90• in rotation each time. Example: finished number one, put a mark at the top of my harmonic balancer, rotated the crank clockwise until my mark went from 12 o’clock to 3 o’clock, then adjusted the pushrods as briefed for piston 8, and so on finishing up with piston 2. my angst comes from the valves not moving now that everything is torqued and adjusted. Do I need to prime my oil pump more?
The intake valve closes on the compression stroke. Watch the cam lobe. Once you see the intake valve open, keep turning the crank and when you see the intake valve close, keep turning until the balancer mark lines up with the timing tab. That is TDC compression. Priming the pump with the sender open will not build pressure. Plug the sender hole, and prime until the drill loads up. I always soak the lifters in oil overnight. Zero lash is more difficult to feel with an empty lifter.
Dangit! I appreciate the help Larry! It’s clear I’m not TDC compression, as when I turn the crank the number 1 intake valve begins to open. That surly would’ve caused some issues on startup! Hell, it probably wouldn’t have fired! I’ll prime the oil pump again and see if I can get the lifters to pump up. If not, I’ll take them out and soak them as you briefed! Thanks man!
Ugh!!! I swear when it rains it pours...went to torque my rockers back down after correcting my TDC on compression stroke and adjustable pushrod measuring and this happens...yay me...not...hopefully I can get it removed without damaging the threads in this new aluminum head!
Finally got this thing fired up and the cam broke in! Sounds killer! Only problem is the new cork valve cover gaskets don’t seal to my aluminum heads properly and oil is spewing out on both sides. I stuffed rags on top of the spark plug boots to catch it during break in. Was a smoke show for sure but I got it broken in. Oil change next and some of those new TA valve covers and the sweet new gaskets they put out. Hopefully this seals it all up! I’ll post a video of the TA310 at idle since there aren’t many on YouTube.
Here’s the car at idle after the cam break in. In park, idle set at 800. Check the description in the video for the total specs. Might add a couple more degrees of timing once I get it on the road and see how this thing rips!
That sucks....i want to go to studs on mine next time apart.......i don't want to strip the treads out in the heads and i get tired of chasing my rocker arms around the shaft sometime. Lol
Something is wrong. I changed my rocker arms to the TA HD ones when I replaced my valve covers and gaskets. Now the car seems like it’s misfiring and won’t stay running. Do I need to readjust pushrod length with a stock TA HD rocker arm swap? I didn’t change anything else. Seems odd.
Did you swap the entire assembly, or did you need to put them all together and then swap them? Can you swap back to what you had?
They were assembled so I just swapped them out. I’m in the process of swapping back now. I wasn’t tracking a geometry difference with their HD rockers over stock. Pushrods look good and all hardware is secured. Torqued bolts to 25
Yeah, that doesn't make any sense. Even if the ratio is different, and it shouldn't be, that should not make any difference. Make sure your pushrods are all seated in the lifters and rocker arms.
Whelp, problem found. Bent pushrod on #4 exhaust. Lifter is busted too. Can’t roll these eyes or grit these teeth hard enough. Had to be my fault. I must’ve missed a proper seating on the pushrod into the lifter when I swapped to the new rockers. Stupid is as stupid does. Super not pumped to drain the coolant and remove the intake all over. Fingers crossed I didn’t damage anything else. Son of a b$&@h!!!!!!!!!
Looking at parts, is it wise to replace only the bad lifters or just order a set and do another break in run? If only replacing a single lifter or two, is another cam break in required?
I don't have any answers for this but I appreciate the thread. I'm throwing around ideas in my head and this really helps. Hopefully it's not too bad!
I would only replace that one lifter. Put some cam lube on the bottom of the lifter, and it wouldn't hurt to do another break in. How do you know the lifter is bad?
