Doing a 455 build now

Can someone point me in the right direction for what frame pads and motor mounts I will need to swap in the 455?

 

Awesome! Thanks for the links, That's exactly what I was hunting!

 

Go my heads back yesterday, they look great! Can anyone point me in the right direction on how to post pictures from a mobile?

 

Still working on this project guys, life has gotten in the way of me taking the rest of the parts to the machine shop, hopefully after Christmas I can get them there!

 

I did a little work on the block today. Next on the list is tapping the hole for the oil galley plugs on the front of the block. I have the plugs, but I can't find the right tap at the local hardware store, does anyone have a link to where I can order the correct tap for this? I believe it's a 3/8 npt if I remeber right. Also there are two plugs on the back of the block, I stripped on out taking it out, the threads in the block are fine but the plug is shot since I have to weld a bolt to it to take it out. Anyou ideas what size they are and where I can get one?

 

Should be 1/4 npt

 

What's everyone's opinions on pistons. I'm looking at the Keith black, speed pro, or sealed power. Is any one better or worse than the other? I'll be ordering them myself once my machine shop tells me if the block needs bored or not.

 

For a mild street build there isn't a thing wrong with plain ole cast pistons , I wouldn't spend money on hyper's or TRW style forged as they are almost as expensive and much heavier than more performance oriented slugs like Ross,JE,Wiescoetc. As to which is better in the ones you mentioned, idk from experience persay but all would be fine for a mild build im sure

 

Ok thanks, I figured forged internals would be overkill for what I'm doing! I still need to get over your way sometime and see if you have any parts for sale that I can use. Maybe sometime around the beginning of January after the craziness of the holidays is over.

 

I went through the same dilemma of choosing pistons for my build. I went with the Sealed Power forged pistons from TA, as they were only $105 more than the cast set I was contemplating getting. Probably overkill for my application, but I don't regret the decision.

 

TA1607 Cast Pistons have a compression height of 1.997 which should save you from milling as much off the block...or any more that just squaring it up.

 

I am going to go with the sealed power cast pistons probably, at a little over 200 bucks a set that's not bad and will do just fine for me.

 

Make sure you double check the CH on the pistons, I know a lot of the ones sold online are waaaaay down in the hole at 1.940-1.950. My builder told me he's had a few guys come in with pistons like that and they were not real happy about the power output once the engine was together something he advised them about beforehand. Something with at the very least 1.980 should get you moving in the right direction. Just my 2 cents

EDIT: I just looked up the sealed power pistons, the CH is 1.955. You're gonna want to mill the block down quite a bit to get power out of those pistons. Just a heads up. I'm not some rich guy who's trying to spend your money, I'm on a budget myself and have gone through the same numbers crunching you are now.

 

Yeah, the plan from the get go has been to mill the block to get to the 9.5:1 cr that am shooting for, so no worries there!

Edit: the plan is to mill the block not heads.

 

Another option it the TA high compression pistons at 335 a set. That may knock down the amount I have to mill off the block.

 

Trust me, if I could have kept my stock pistons and just decked the block then I would have saved the money for sure. I think the issue is you can only take so much off the block before the intake also has to be milled....so on, so fourth... just more added expense because things won't line up.

Good luck with it all man, it's fun and also nerve wrecking.

 

Yeah, lots to think about that's for sure. The first thing though is to see what the machine shop says regarding how much, if any it needs bored.

 

If you want a comparison, this is what my shop charges.

Clean the block and check it for cracks, plus truing it up and taking whatever I need off the top $225.

Shaving the heads, $75 each

Bore the block $180.

This is if I bring in bare parts to them, it's extra if they have to take anything off.

 

Everything is tore down completely right now. My heads are done so I won't be touching them. I'm hoping just a Hone will clean up the cylinders, I can still see the cross hatch in them and there is no gouges. Clean and check the block,Then have them install ta cam bearings. I will have to take the block back to them to shave some off the top. But I'll have to see how far down my pistons will be first.