Drop in Neoprene with no leak. Sometimes even the correct neoprene seal and to the instruction installation could leak because of where the knurl is on the main. If it rides on the surface of the seal edge, it could cause a leak. Had this happen on one engine where the knurl was very close. Tom
YES it all pours out in a day or two after sitting still for a few days up a slight incline.. i go through more cat litter and cases of trans fluid.. you should see my driveway lol its very nasty putting in a neoprene seal is on the top of my list
Mine doesn't leak, but it hasn't been driven in 6 years eitherou: I had an Isuzu Trooper II that would leak 1 quart every 100 miles or so. I would carry oil with me all the time. I would check, and add, the oil every day. If I had a very busy day (200 miles or so) I would add oil during the day also. I had very little rust on the under carriage though:Brow: Dan
I think I had a leak with the neoprene seals on a fresh rebuild. Could have been the pan but since the motor was back out (fresh transmission) I decide to see if I could get rid of the leak. Putting in the BOP vitron seal. Was not that hard except it does have to be cut. Seems like for $50 the thing could be the correct length. Will let everyone know how it worked in a few weeks. My Pontiac engine building buddy says there is a new style of rope seal that is carbon fiber based that he has a lot of luck with.
Only when there's oil in the crankcase. I used TA's high $ seal when I built the motor around 2001 and even had the knurling in the seal area of the crank almost completely polished off but it still seeped. Now after all these years if I park it in my ridiculously angled driveway for more than a minute or two I'll get a nice little puddle under the car and a nice little spray pattern from the flex plate when I fire it up. It's time for another build so it'll just have to keep leaking until it goes BOOM! The machine work on this motor was all hosed up from the start(used a well respected machine shop but apparently only on brand C or F motors) and I'm surprised it's stayed together this long.
With the help of Rob Ross we just changed my rear seal. Only had a couple thousand miles on it. The old Ford neoprene seal was all chewed up. Looked like the edge of a wood saw blade. Sent the crank out to touch the journal and installed a new trimmed Caddy seal. All looks fine for now. For how long, who knows? Thanks again Rob.
There is a difference in the 2 neoprene seals. Maybe there needs to be the distinction in the poll voting. I've had much better luck with the trim-to-fit Caddy seal than the Ford drop-in.
My stock, numbers matching, 430 does not leak from the rear main one bit. That said, I need to take off the rocker arm covers and adjust the valves. I was taught how to adjust valves the "ole skool" method during my high school years: thoroughly warmed engine while running at low idle, loosening the rockers until you hear a ticking sound, then tightening until the ticking just stops at the "zero lash", then tightening in one quarter turns while waiting about 15 seconds between each quarter turn until you reach one turn of preload. Indeed, this is what the 1969 Buick Service Manual on DVD says to perform as well. Use lots of moist rags and/or moist paper towels to keep engine oil at bay. Also wear gloves.
I think when I used the one from KB that I had to trim worked better than the last one I used that seemed a little shy from going to the top of the cap and block. Was Kenne Bell's seal the Caddy one?
Just to let everyone know the BOP seal worked great. Now I need a new way to rust proof the underside of the car.
Gents, yes I know it's an old tread. But is ther anyone that can supply a part number and a vendor for the neoprene seal, that is the missing link in my 430 rebuild
