I could use some input please. Newly rebuilt 400 (by someone else so do not know the internals). I do know it is warmed over some. B4B intake with Quadrajet Ported cast exhaust manifolds with 2.5 inch exhaust. New water pump. New aluminum (yes, chinesium) radiator. New hoses, belts. 180 thermostat Within 2-3 minutes of starting the temp gauge is at 210. It stays above 200 and never goes below. Driving down the road at 60 it stays about 210 unless you slow down or stop and then it goes up. Seems to run ok but sure keeps you watching the temp gauge. Had the radiator back out and flow and pressure checked - ok. Checked gauge to be sure it is accurate. Will pull the thermostat tomorrow and see what it does without one. Any other ideas? I have a new TA high flow pump on the way. Will install that when it shows up. Thanks
If you are hitting 210 in three minutes of run time your timing is way off or you have ahead gasket failure.
Mine did that with a cheap spectra premium aluminum core radiator never boiled but it was sure close. I had a local rad shop use my stock tanks and a copper 4 core and I run about 185-190 now. That other rad is still hanging on my garage wall.
Duke did you check for bubbling in the radiator when it is cold or when you first start it? If it is a gasket it will usually start bubbling right away. I'm not sure the timing will cause it to heat that fast. Since it doesn't cool much while driving I'm thinking radiator. Tubing might be too small. Keep us posted on how the TA pump works out. Bob H.
Bob, doesn't reaching temp in 2-3 minutes from first start sound a little fast to you? when an engine is first started the thermostat is closed until engine reaches the thermostat temp so the radiator is not a factor until thermostat opens. just wondering Duke, have you verified the temp gauge is accurate? that might be the first thing you want to do.
I just installed a Flexalite stainless flex fan that bolts to the water pump and turns constantly and installed a original style shroud. ---------- Post added at 09:50 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:48 AM ---------- No sign of air in the radiator or oil / coolant mixed. Timing just professionally set by Buick mechanic. ---------- Post added at 09:58 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:50 AM ---------- Bob I installed a capillary tube gauge along with the electronic gauge to check. Both within a couple of degrees. Great input keep it coming. I am planning to remove the thermostat today and will post results. Is it possible to block water ports by installing a head or intake gasket incorrectly? I never removed the heads or intake on this motor. I did remove the timing cover and install a new gasket while the engine was out last year, so I know that is fine.
I agree it is a little fast but it does have circulation through the bypass before the thermostat opens. Bob H.
First thing I would do is take a sample of your coolant to your local mechanic. He can test it for CO. There is a chemical he will mix with your coolant. It's fool proof for testing for blown head gaskets and only takes a minute.
Meaningless. What did he use as the specification for initial timing? What is the timing curve? Did he verify that the vacuum and centrifugal advance work? Engine overheats from cold in two or three minutes? I'd be looking at a blocked exhaust including the heat riser valve. Excess exhaust may be forced through the intake manifold heat passage, causing excess heat load into the iron of the engine. Next up would be excessively retarded ignition timing. Lean fuel mixture would be third.
So it is meaningless that the timing was set by a professional Buick mechanic. I guess that leaves no where to go.:idea2: Bob H.
I think it's just meaningless to us without more information. Without sharing the specifics of what was done and checked, there's no way anyone can confirm that it's likely where it should be, or if suggesting potential changes may be of further help, that's all. Devon
Did this issue suddenly manifest itself? Or did it happen when you first fired the engine, meaning after adding the coolant? My opinion is the engine could have an air "bubble", or insufficient coolant within the block, which can cause your problem.
YES. It does not matter WHO set the timing. The car does not know him, and can not read his credentials. The car will not be grateful that you spent money for a "pro". What matters is whether the timing curve is reasonably close to what the vehicle needs. We've not seen evidence that you've verified the timing curve--including the vacuum advance.
I agree it doesn't matter who set the timing as long as it was done right. I also believe that Dukes problem has little to do with the timing especially the timing curve. Not that it doesn't make any difference but I feel that there is a little to much emphasis put on timing when people have a heating problem. I don't care how the timing is set it isn't going to cause a car to over heat in 3 minutes. Your barking up the wrong tree. Bob H.
I would think that timing would come in to play once there was a load on the engine and not while sitting in park with no load
The timing and carburetion have been set up by a local Buick guy. The MSD distributor is set up per Larry's instructions and the vacuum advance is functional & correct. One thing I have discovered is that the thermostat is not tight in the front of the B4B. I have 2 NAPA & a Stant thermostat and they all are loose with the outlet bolted in place. I can stick my finger in the opening and move the stat around. Probably causing some bypassing.
