Continuing with Wilson's problematic 72 Skylark

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by Esasky's85GN, May 12, 2016.

  1. 70 GMuscle

    70 GMuscle Plan B

    So you never checked timing
    Interesting
     
  2. Esasky's85GN

    Esasky's85GN Car Poor!

    Can't check timing when intake and carb are off.
     
  3. 70 GMuscle

    70 GMuscle Plan B

    You think that up all by yourself?
    Read the thread.
    He never checked it from beginning
    Yet made all these changes
    Maybe it's not the problem
    But maybe it is
    Entertaining regardless how you read into it
     
  4. 70 GMuscle

    70 GMuscle Plan B

    Oh wait
    It's your car
    Lol
     
  5. Esasky's85GN

    Esasky's85GN Car Poor!

    And sarcasm is a 2nd language to me. No reason to become a dick on the board. People come on here to get information, not to be belittled.

    Timing was verified by original owner along with other things. If you read the link to his post, you would see he was at his wits end.

    Barring his findings, I did not verify timing because I wanted to go through the motor to verify all the expensive components were sound. May be the wrong way for some, but that's what I choose to do when I buy someone else's car that had issues mentioned.

    Leave the sarcasm to someone else's post.
     
  6. 70 GMuscle

    70 GMuscle Plan B

    Sarcasm? Lol
    You should read your words and take notes on your findings
    I come on this board to learn about buicks and help some others
    You jumped the shark to change carbs n intakes without verifying others findings
    This is quite entertaining to me and many others who don't post or at least not here
    Or who did and told you to verify findings
    One thing I'll tell you is 2 timing lights can give to different findings
    That's it
    Carry on
    Good luck regardless as I hope you find performance you are looking for.
    Your name calling is funny
    Been called worse by lesser individuals
    And some better too smile
    And get your car right
     
  7. Esasky's85GN

    Esasky's85GN Car Poor!

    So, you're telling me that you weren't being sarcastic?
    People who ask for help on things shouldn't be belittled because they don't do things the same way others do.
    I didn't change intakes and changing the carb was solidified by folks on this board regardless if the other one was the culprit or not.
    I have been listening to the people on here who are not quick to throw negative comments. This isn't my 1st pair of steel toe boots but it is my 1st BBB I ever worked on. That's why I came on here to ask questions; from experts who give useful information. I am not sure where your seeing the disconnect of me not listening to folks on here.

    Not calling anyone names; just stating the obvious as your comments were increasingly becoming "dick-ish".
    I appreciate your input just as much as others if the negativity doesn't follow it.

    I said my peace. Thanks.
     
  8. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Anxious to hear how the engine runs with the Q-jet. I think a Holley type DP can be over kill for a mild motor depending on gearing and converter, and of course how well, if at all, it was tuned to the engine. Do you have any documentation from Wildcat Performance on the engine rebuild specs? I wonder if you can call wildcat Performance and talk to Mike L about the engine.
     
  9. Esasky's85GN

    Esasky's85GN Car Poor!

    Larry,

    I am as well. I ran into some things over the weekend and didn't get a chance to mess around with the car. I know the motor really isn't worked and has your standard stall converter and gear in rearend.

    I don't have any documentation from Mike @ Wildcat Performance. The original owner had Richard Lesseter manage his build. Richard provided him with documentation stating what Mike did. Attached is what I have in terms of paperwork.

    I sent Mike a message but never heard anything back. Motor was build sometime in 2005.
     

    Attached Files:

  10. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member


    I'll tell you, I feel very fortunate to have selected Jim Weise to build my engine. I received an "Engine Book" detailing EVERY aspect of the build including sonic testing sheet, cam card, multiple dyno sheets and every measurement you could think of. Obviously, not all shops go that extra mile. I had to wait about 2 years because Jim actually built 2 engines due to unforeseen problems, but it was well worth the wait, and my GS was never down except for the time it took me to put my iron heads back on my existing short block and get her running again.

    I think you probably have a good basic short block. It would be nice to know the static compression ratio because I think your cylinder pressures are low for the elevation you are at. I also wonder about how well that intake is sealing to the heads. Internal vacuum leaks are really tough to detect. After you get the Q-jet on, I would definitely verify the initial and total timing, and make sure the spark plugs are staying clean.
     
  11. Esasky's85GN

    Esasky's85GN Car Poor!


    That is nice that Jim gives all the build information. I am fortunate that if I have my local guy do any work for me, he supplies me with the all the information.

    I agree Larry. I am not sure if Mike ever told the original owner what the calculated ratio was or if he ever did a SC test. I don't think the motor was bored. It has 71 (1237661 71cc) heads on it; but I'm not sure if they were decked or not.

    When I pulled the intake, as you know, it had TA performance intake gaskets on it. They were the .032" thick gaskets so I would assume that the heads may have been machined just to square them up. When I pulled the intake, I took a look around all the sealing surfaces and didn't notice any voids. The water jackets were the only ports that had any type of silicone. Usually, if I use a gasket that doesn't have the sealing material built in (like felpro does) I usually put a thin coat of RTY on every sealing surface. Never had an intake leak on me doing that. But, this is a BBB and I am not sure if that is feasible to do or not on these motors. I know that original owner said that vacuum @ idle was like 12" or so; way low for a TA 212 cam.

    Part of me even wonders if I should pull the front timing cover and verify chain slack. Make sure its not excessive. Mike did degree the cam in though; which is stopping me from verifying that.

    Definitely the plan here soon Larry. I am planning on getting intake on (ordered gaskets from TA, should be here today), getting carb on, firing up the ole girl and dialing in the timing. I know stock initial is 4 BTDC but also know that's with the stock distributor. I am planning on using your power timing process to get her dialed in.

    From what I can tell, the distributor already has the vacuum advance mod on it. not sure what springs are in it but again, this car ran for a little while and then started going downhill.

    Lot of work ahead of me. Just got to get around to it; while building my 62 Skylark and working on side jobs with customer cars.

    I appreciate all the help Larry. Your a good man! :)
     
  12. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Yup, you may eventually have to verify the cam timing, hope it doesn't come to that. Funny you should mention the stock initial timing of 4* BTDC. Went to my local cruise night this past Friday. One of my Buick buds has a beautiful 1972 Skylark Custom Convertible with the 350-2 bbl he happened to bring that night. Bone stock, never been touched except for Petronix conversion. He brings it out every so often, and in speaking with him, he tells me the engine has always been down on power and hesitates. I ask him if he ever took a look at the ignition specs for the 1112109 distributor. He tells me no, but he has bumped the initial timing to 10* BTDC. Have a look at the specs,

    [​IMG]

    Notice the 1112109 distributor has 12-16* maximum mechanical advance. Do the math with an initial timing of 4* BTDC. At wide open throttle, the most the total advance could be is 16-20*



    So I get my timing light, distributor wrench, and trusty Crane yellow springs out of the trunk of my car. We pop in the yellow springs, start the engine, and I set his total timing with the vacuum advance plugged to 34*. I completely disregard the initial timing, don't even check it. We then substitute the yellow springs for one blue, and one silver spring from my Crane collection. I then disable his TCS (Transmission Control Spark) system which eliminates any vacuum advance in 1st and 2nd gear. I hook his vacuum advance directly to manifold vacuum and make sure it is working. He gets in the car, starts it, and does a little light power braking to see if it still hesitates. It does not. I ask him to text me after driving home that night and let me know how she runs. A little while later I get a text with 3 thumbs up, no hesitation, car runs strong and wants to spin the tires now.

    You have an HEI distributor now. The initial timing spec of 4* BTDC is now meaningless for your engine. Forget it completely. When you do check your timing, set the total WOT advance to 32-34* Get all the mechanical advance in by 2500 RPM. Then limit the vacuum advance accordingly.
     
  13. Esasky's85GN

    Esasky's85GN Car Poor!

    NICE!!!!

    Amazing how initial timing becomes meaningless on motors like this. I guess they just picked a number in the middle for initial timing due to all the inconsistencies in the distributor component tolerances.

    I will definitely do what you recommend. I know my HEI has 2 different springs on it now. Not sure RPM wise when mechanical advance is fully engaged with those springs but I will shoot to get it in @ 2500 RPMs. Does the mechanical advance degree vary from HEI distributor cast number like is does on the original point dizzys? I have the Dizzy number but couldn't find any information on it.

    Dizzy casting is : 1112990 6F19


    Thanks Larry!

    Chris
     
  14. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Yes it does vary. In general, HEI's had a lot of mechanical advance built into them. That restricts how much initial advance you can run without over advancing at WOT. You'll want the lightest springs possible so you can measure total WOT advance at the lowest possible engine RPM.
     
  15. Esasky's85GN

    Esasky's85GN Car Poor!

    Ok, so if I install the lightest springs in the dizzy. Leave the initial timing at whatever it is. Then, kick up RPMs and see what total advance is. Dial that in to the 32-34 degrees by restricting the vacuum advance rod in concert with changing out mechanical advance springs to verify full MA @ 2500 rpms...?

    Sound correct?
     
  16. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    No, you want to set the initial + full mechanical advance total to 32-34*. Vacuum advance only functions when there is vacuum. There is very little if any vacuum at WOT. Leave the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. The vacuum advance is the last thing you adjust after you have your initial + mechanical advance set. You need to measure the advance when the weights are fully extended. That is when the mechanical advance is at it's maximum. The springs determine what RPM that occurs at. Most stock springs don't allow that until 4000 RPM or more. That's why I advise that you use the lightest springs possible ONLY for the purpose of setting the total WOT timing. Once you have it set, it will stay that way. The initial timing ends up where it must be for the distributor you are using. Then you figure out what combination of springs get you there at 2500 RPM. After that, you limit your vacuum advance to 8-10* max. The result is your cruise timing in the low 40's, but when you nail it, the vacuum advance drops out and you are left with 32-34*. Understand?
     
  17. Esasky's85GN

    Esasky's85GN Car Poor!

    Ahh yes. Got a little confused there. My apologies. At what RPM should I expect to have the lightest springs reflect the full mechanical advance? So there is really no "sweet spot" to have initial timing to start at? If I am not mistaken, the original owner said that he advanced the initial timing 10 degrees just to keep the car running. not sure where his baseline was before advancing. If I had to guess, if he advanced it that much, initial timing may be sitting @ like 14 degrees if he used a BL of 4 degrees. Am I reading too much into initial timing? I'm spoiled with the fact that most cars I am building have timing tables programmed via burned processor or flashed into the ECU.

    As far as curve springs, Crane springs are the best kit to get then?
     
  18. john.schaefer77

    john.schaefer77 Well-Known Member

    I have used the lightest springs to check advance and they actually bump a little advance in at idle. I would say probably full advance on mine was about 1500-1800. They come with charts for the springs but they are not that great usually. I used Mr. Gasket with one light and one medium.
     
  19. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    I like the Crane springs and adjustable vacuum advance. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-99600-1 There is no RPM I can give you when all your advance is in with the lightest crane springs. It will vary with the weights in your current distributor. You can EASILY see it if you know how to use a timing light. I cover all of this right in the very first post of my Power Timing thread.

    http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?63475-Power-Timing-your-Buick-V8


    You have NO choice what initial timing you can run with any stock GM distributor. It is going to depend on the particular distributor and how much mechanical advance is in that distributor. If you could easily adjust that amount, than you would have more of a choice on how much initial advance you could run. Aftermarket distributors have adjustable mechanical advance, your HEI does not. So, it's a matter of math. If your distributor has say, 30* of mechanical advance, and you want to run 34* total, 10 +30 =40. That's not going to work. You'll be limited to running 4* initial (4 + 30 = 34*). You are going to have to figure this out for yourself with a timing light.

    An aftermarket cam will frequently like 12* or more initial advance. You may or may not be able to run that. I can't tell you that for sure. Somewhere in the Power Timing thread, is information on the HEI. I seem to remember certain weight and center pieces adjust the amount of mechanical.

    Yes, you are spoiled:grin: You are used to a computer doing all this for you. Now, you actually need to understand how a distributor works and how to adjust it. There are no shortcuts. You have to do the work.
     
  20. regal81455

    regal81455 Well-Known Member

    Chris--

    Like Larry said forget the term "initial timing", it's useless to someone looking for peak performance. You only need to be concerned with two things at 1st.

    #1 -- 2500 RPMS
    #2 -- 30-34* w/o vac advance hooked up

    You want 30-34* degrees @ ( or before in some cases ) 2500 rpms -- if the advance keeps going up after 2500 rpms then you need to get lighter springs so it stops. Once you set to 30-34* @ 2500 rpms and tighten the holddown, recheck your timing and see where it sits. As long as it's around 10-16* you shouldn't need any start retard but if you find it's 20* + you might run into startup problems especially when warm -- that's when you either break the bank for a new dizzy or purchase a ignition box or other add on that allows you to retard the timing during cranking ( usually retards about 10* ).

    Hope that helps...

    BTW please be sure to chock in front of atleast one wheel, wear safety glasses, and keep your arms away from the fan ( if mechanical ) while messing with the timing -- it's not in the best of places and can be a bit intimidating hanging over it while buzzing at 2500 rpms

    Good luck homey - you know Im rooting for ya!
     

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