Compression & Ignition Question

Robert

I still feel that the cam timing is too advanced.

Please do this check.

Remove the valve cover for cylinder #1

Turn the engine clock wise as you face the front till the exhaust valve for cylinder #1 just begins to open.

Remove the rocker arms.

Put a dial indicator on the pushrod for the intake and zero it.

Turn engine clockwise till the dial indicator reads .050 inches or 1.27mm.

The crank should be at 1 degree BTDC

Paul

 

Hey paul nice to hear u

Lambda was good 0.92 @ 2000rpm
and 2500-5000 0.84-0.85 with WOT

Here a video from the pull

Altitude around 400m ...
The spark was light brown i guess its little brighter than i should be (but not much). Okey paul, tomorrow i will check the cam timing...

thanks

Robert

 

My bad on the intake adapter. I forgot that my intake has been ground on numerous times to fit everything. I also usually run either a 4-hole or open 1" spacer which takes the throttle plate out of it. Ultimately I'd try a normal spacer(open or 4-hole). Place it on the intake and mark where the intake flange protrudes into the air flow path and grind on the intake to open it up. That would be the best way to go.

What that 870 does prove is the Q-Jet you were running was screwy so it was a worthwhile changeout.

What Paul suggested to do to check the cam timing is a good idea. Maybe I misread it but you can't leave the rockers on. The pushback from the valve spring will cause the lifter to potentially collapse some when turning the engine. Remove the rockers and pull the plugs on that side of the engine so you can turn it over by hand to get that .050" reading.

Paul, I believe he wants to see 1BTDC on the timing cover if he has the cam advanced 4. Anywhere close is in the ballpark. I do agree that that cam and head setup should be peaking a few hundred rpm higher.

Is the dyno giving corrected HP reading? If not then your elevation is tapping about 15 HP off.

 

Thanks Mike

You are right on both subjects. Thats what I get for trying to run in to my office and hurrying to reply so I can get back to work outside.

Yes I should have said remove the rockers
and the proper timing is 1 BTDC at .050 pushrod lift.

Paul

 

First i had a surgey on my back so i cant work still yet on my engine.
But now i feel me much better so i cant slowly start the work....

After the last pull, the engine has high pressure in the crankcase.
The valvecover on the driver side has 2 Holes, one with a closed airfilter and the other one is completly open. It blows much oilsteam in the air and on the intakemanifold it has a little oil from a hole on the intake.
So i hope the guy from the machine shop doesn't ruin my engine.
I will disassembly the heads and check all.

Wich is the right piston ring clearance? He run with 0w30 break in oil...

And Paul and Mike, you mean the exhaust must be 1 Degree on the crank.
Desktop dyno means: IVO = BTDC and EVO = BBDC ??

Wich is right?

Thanks

Robert

 

We run without the aircleaner...

 

Robert

Welcome back
Hope your back recovers well from the surgery.
Be careful working.

First use a cylinder leak down tester and record the percent of leakage for each cylinder
when the piston is at TDC during the compression stroke.

Drain the oil from the engine and inspect it for metal particles.
you can also cut the oil filter apart and check for metal particles.

After you remove the heads, inspect all lifters and cam lobes for wear

Put the degree wheel on the crankshaft and zero the pointer in.

Please record these 4 readings for cylinder #1.

When the intake lifter lifts .050" (1.27mm) for valve opening
It should be 1 degree BTDC

When the intake lifter is 1.27mm from closing.
It should be 49 degrees ABDC

when the exhaust lifter lifts 1.27mm for opening.
It should be 118 degrees ATDC

When the exhaust lifter is 1.27mm from closing
It should be 2 degrees BTDC

Then proceed with the rest of the engine inspection

Paul

 

What Larry said.

What Paul said about the leakdown test.

No need to pull the heads unless you determine something with the leakdown test and then the only reason to pull them is to pull a piston or if you determine that a head gasket or valve is bad.

I'm always getting drips off my valve cover breathers after long drives and high rpm. If you are saying that liquid oil and not oil vapor is coming out of the valve cover breather holes sometimes the rocker arms line up with the holes and at high rpm they just throw the oil out. I've never been able to eliminate it completely.

When we were talking about the 1 that was BTDC for the INTAKE OPENING. That is the way your timing cover is marked compared to the mark on the balancer. The idea was to do a quick timing check without a degree wheel or even taking anything apart other than the valve cover/rockers arms as described earlier. If you can do an official timing check with a degree wheel that would be best but if you do the quick check and it comes in close to 1 BTDC for IO then you are probably ok with cam timing.

 

Bad news.... Both headgasket are blown out :blast:
Cylinderwall is scratched, tomorrow i hone a bit and after that i meassure the diameter up and down from the cylinder. I hope i can rescue my engine....

 

Robert

Are there any metal particles in the oil?

Do all the lifters and cam lobes look alright?

Whatever scratched the cylinder walls had to come from somewhere!

Paul

 

The vavletrain looking good. All lifters turn around an in the oil pan was no metal partikels. Lifter are is complete clean from metal particals.
Only a small mob was onto oiltubepickupfilter. Hmm i guess it camefrom the piston, they also have scatchs on the side. But why those scratching, oilpressure was always good...
Now im looking for a better gasket, my thought's are TA's organge crushed or a full cooper gasket. Any suggestions?

 

Did you re-torque the head bolts after the engine break-in when the engine was cold?

Is just one cylinder wall scratched?

Paul

 

So sorry its been such a struggle (Re: Question)

Dear Robert and V-8 Buick engine gurus,

Wow, the deck has been really stacked against you recently

I hope that at least your back is feeling better. Working around an engine certainly requires a lot of stooping and bending about.

So sorry that your engine seems to be feeling even worse than you did. That's a very cruel blow! :af:

Well, you have the right team of experts on your side to help you out. About the only additional advise I can offer is take your time! The advice will take some time to come back across the Atlantic and you are much better off to pause and let the gurus come up with answers to your questions than to try plow ahead into the unknown.

Hoping that your luck is now headed in the right direction!

Cheers, Edouard :beer

 

Yes i re-torque the heads. For the re-torque i turn 1/4 counterclockwise than i turn with a torque-rachet set 104lb/ft. 1 bolt after one bolt...
Cylinder 3 and 4 have scratches, the other cylinders have only light scratches. Gaskets are similar bown out (bank1 to bank2). Most area of 3,4 and less on 1,2,5,6 and 7,8 looking good. I will make tomorrow pictures...
Thanks for the opinion :beer

 

Was the block machined flat before you added the new heads?

 

The block was machined for .005 deck clearance


Robert

Would you please check the heads and the block deck with a straight edge
just to be sure.


Paul

 

Update:

Deck and heads are straight. But Cylinder 3 and 4 are now oval :af:
To much for honing, next overbore is required or shells? Any experience with 455 and shell is that possible? Its very expensive here over 2500$. Today i checked all parts for metal particles, it must came from the the cylinderwall but how... Everyone know the piston to wall clearance (SP L2353F +030)? Sorry i throw the card in the trash....

So now the super heads...
TA Perfomance heads are cheap! they never are 2500$ worth.
1 Valve is crooked and all valvles are not fitting 100% its like china ****... Why i spend 1000$ and become edelbrock quality...

Coppergasket or orange crush?

regards

Robert

 

Are these the l2353f's w/skirt coating. How are you honing the cylinders and how much out of round and which way is wider? Horizontal or verticle. Was a torque plate used?
Ray