Compression & Ignition Question

I have inspected the heads and theres many sharp edges and rough castings.
Now im try with sandpaper to fix it.

 

Be very careful. Do not touch the valve seat. In fact, it might be a good idea to install a valve while you sand.

 

at the very least lap the valves when your done and if theyre aluminum heads i would leave any work to them to a professional.

 

Scott and loonie thanks for your advice.
I make this work self at the machineshop.
When i have done this work, i will regrinding from hand the vavle onto the seat.
I hope through this process are the valves leak proof.

Update

Now i have torqued the hone plate onto the block. Should i retorque it after 24 hours.

 

Update

Now i have torqued the hone plate onto the block. Should i retorque it after 24 hours?

 

loonie?! ouch!. i dont see why you would have to torque it down again. its not like your trying to compress and seal a gasket. but ive no experience with torque plates.

 

Update:

Engine is honed with the plate to 4.350" for the new pistons. The cylinder bore has a oval size .004" without the plate now and with the plate is nothing.
Thanks for the tip with the plate, my enginebuilder says "i never saw a big sortation like this"
Now im checking the ring gap. Wich ring must have wich clearance? Or have all the Rings the gap from 0.021? i think a range between .019 -.023 is okay?
I know i can ask my builder, but a suggetion here is safer.

regards

Robert

 

Give the second ring a little extra gap.

.020" top
.024" second

Since the cylinder is distorted without the torque plate you should set the ring gap with the plate.

Paul

 

Update:

All toprings are in clearance, but all second groove rings were to tight.
After done this work i put all piston in. Now i have a question about the rod sideway endplay clearance.
I dont know the right name of this, but i mean the clearance between rods when they moved in crank direction (front/back Engine).
I have measure it and is 0.013" . I found a here a numbers of 005" - 012" and im not sure are these the right numbers.
I give my best to get this job right and im very grateful for help and advices. :Comp:

regards

Robert

 

Robert

.013" rod side clearance is good on a performance engine.

Here's is what Jim Weise had to say:

http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?59125-rod-side-clearance&p=446382#post446382

the combustion chambers look much better. Nice Job!

Paul

 

Update:

Engine status, please watch the picture
Last dynorun i had not enough fuel pressure, so im not 100% sure about the mechincal fuelpump.
We solved this problem with an additional electric fuelpump.
Are the names on the place (picture)
Thanks for the help

Robert

 

Engine still waiting for break in...:boring:
Someone have a suggestion of oil weight? last time i used 0-30W Miller break in with ZDDP additive.

regards

Robert