Compression & Ignition Question

So the fuel pump issue is solved. (bad mistake)
Current progress can u see at the pictures.

 

Is that a new TA water pump? It looks very subtantial. I have a new TA timing cover for my next build and I've got to get me one of those pumps!

 

Yes its the new TA Waterpump <-- click

regards

Robert

 

*update*

Engine is now assembled and is waiting for the dyno run.
I used adjustable pushrods to get the correct preload on the lifters (1 turn over).

















Thanks for watching... i hope this engine will run and pull hart :beers2:

Thansk paul and ray and mike for ur support!

 

Robert

Thanks for the update and great pictures.

I'm anxious to see the dyno results.

I would recommend to only use the adjustable pushrods for a short while.
measure the adjustables and replace them with the same length one piece pushrods.
That will give you one less thing to go wrong.

When will you dyno the engine?

Paul

 

Paul: "I'm anxious to see the dyno results" I mean my engine will blow or explode? or u mean the engine will produce amazing huge power?

Next monday i prepare the engine for the break in.
Tuesday break in with stock collectors
Wednesday dynorun with the headers

I read here only good opinions about the TA adjustable pushrods, i think there should be no problem with the correct settings.

Is there something else to say?

regards

Robert

 

What rockers are you running? Stockers are no problem with the adjustables. The TA/roller type rockers could have some interference with the adjusters. If you have those rockers and adjustables after you adjust them right you flip them all upside down so the adjuster part is down by the lifter. I've run adjustables many years and on many engines, no problem.

 

Thanks Mike and Robert for your input on TA adjustable pushrods.

I take back my concerns. Just being over cautious.

I'm too use to working with big roller cams.

Looking forward to amazing results.

Paul

 

Sorry for responding late.(something is wrong, i do not get e mail notifications)
I installed bigger jets in the carb and new alu radiator, that fixed the detonation problem.
I use iron heads with stock valve size. With the c118 camshaft it would be better with stage1 heads, so i may upgrade when my economy allow it to.
I use TH200-4R Transmission from Bowtie overdrives with 2600 rpm stallspeed.

Right now i am rebuilding my other 70 455 engine to fit my other car (70 gs stage 1) TA288-94H Camshaft, iron stage1 heads.

 

Torsdalen nice to hear u. Here is a picture one day before break in.

 

Looks nice !!
I have to save some money to buy a pair of heads like that. And the water pump too.

 

Thanks for sharing (Re: Compression)

Hi Robert and V-8 Buick engine gurus,

Thanks for posting all the great pictures. Makes me long for the engine Jim Weise is building for my trusty wagon!

Sounds like you've done a great job. Looking forward to learning exactly how well the engine performs. :3gears:

Cheers, Edouard :beer

 

Thanks you Edouard, it was a long way. There were few problems but throught this forum and special helpful members like paul,ray and mike i solved them. The engine is now almost entirely prepared for the break in. Just an alternatorarm and the oil are still missing. Is something important to say?

Best regards

Robert

 

Robert

Looks great!

Do you have a way to drive the oil pump with an electric drill
to get oil pressure before you start the engine?

Paul

 

So what we did:

We add pressure onto the oilsystem with a electric drill. After 1 min turning the drill, cam at cylinder 4 oil trough one pushrod. After 2 Mins the same thing. After that, the guy from the engineshop turn 1 sek the starter and checked on all cylinder the compression with the hand. He mean, in the break in it will works, and until then we oil manualy the rockerarms.

So now the second issue, the damn Distributor from Pertronix. I have one with a Hall-Signal. We dont know where is the ignition point?, where on the distributor there are no marks...

Monday i try to get the Distributor in....

What you thinks about this?

Regards

Robert

 

For Hall-signal
If you hook up the distributor and coil with power,
as you turn the distributor, the coil will spark when you get to the trigger point.

Paul

 

I believe the Pertronix has 8 openings to activate the sensor so it really doesn't matter where it is located. If it has a vacuum advance just position it where it should normally point to, set up the engine to number 1 piston at TDC and get the dist. rotor pointing to the correct cap terminal and you should be good. Don't forget to slightly compensate for the slight rotor rotation when the oil pump engages.

Something I noticed on the water pump. That looks like it is actually the pulley that goes in front of the normal WP pulley so it can drive the AIR pump. The WP would be screaming with that pulley.

I'd try to hook some kind of mufflers up before firing. This way if there is any kind of problem noise you can hear it.

10-20 seconds once the pressure has built with the drill is fine then maybe rotate the engine some and do it again for a few seconds. That is about all you need. One thing I noticed is if you have some lifters tapping after initial startup and it doesn't go away shut the engine off and wait a minute and restart. If necessary try it again. It seems to get the lifters to fill up faster than just running it waiting to get them pumped up and stop tapping.

 

Dear Paul, Mike, Larry and other V-8 Buick engine gurus,

Just a quick thanks :TU: for watching out for the fellows who "ticker themselves into difficulty." If General Motors tech support was as good as what V-8 Buick provides, they wouldn't have needed a government bailout!! :laugh:

Cheers, Edouard :beer

P.S. Thanks Robert for keeping us posted on your progress. The rest of us are rooting for you!! :TU:

 

Yes break'in was succesfull!
I used standard break in oil and added a ZDDP bottle to get enough zinc.

Here can u see the first breath of the engine! Okay it was the second try, the ignition was to late and a short flame shoot out of the carb

The TA SE Heads doenst fit right to the stock valvlecovers, are there modification required? I try to fix this tomorrow..

Thanks

Robert