Can a Buick fit the same Distributor as the Chevy?

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by ceas350, Jan 12, 2010.

  1. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    Well, if its installed in your Buick engine, then its a Buick distributor.


    I was under the impression from your post, that you had an uninstalled HEI distributor and were unsure of its application.

    If the thing is already installed and running in your car, whats your question?
     
  2. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

  3. ceas350

    ceas350 "THE BURNER"

    What is a good route to go...
    Buying a new one. if so what brand?
    rebuilding what I have.
    Either way I have 3 days a week that I could dedicate to this install/ rebuild:3gears:
     
  4. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    Ok, lets start from the beginning because Im a bit confused.

    You aleready have an HEI installed in your car. Why would you want to replace it? Is there some sort of a driveability problem your experiencing?
     
  5. ceas350

    ceas350 "THE BURNER"

    I don't know where it came from or who installed it. I could of been used for all I know. Besides I like working on my car to make it run better.
     
  6. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Ceaser, we're on page two and "Im sure its time for a new one" is a piss poor reason to replace what is most likely a part that's performing just fine. There's hardly anything to wear out.

    If you fear you will just die if you don't replace it, drop in one of these:

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACC-59102/

    Devon
     
  7. Golden Oldie 65

    Golden Oldie 65 Well-Known Member

    I just read this entire thread for the first time and I still haven't figured out what's going on :confused:
     
  8. BUICKRAT

    BUICKRAT Got any treats?

    Your upper radiator hose is about to burst.
     
  9. ceas350

    ceas350 "THE BURNER"

    thanks
    no its not I can tell when a hose will blow
     
  10. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Glad to help.

    Gotta go now, I'm behind schedule on my plan to shove bamboo shoots under my fingernails.

    Devon
     
  11. ceas350

    ceas350 "THE BURNER"

    Weirdo:spank:
     
  12. The Devil

    The Devil Well-Known Member

    Someone mentioned losing fingers in the fan while setting timing on our engines with the distributor in the front.

    A very knowledgeable distributor guy I know gave me a bit of advice on setting timing on front mounted distributors a few years ago, and it works, every time.

    1st, I set the balancer on the timing I want, then, install the distributor with the rotor pointing to the right place. I then remove the rotor and take a look at the timing trigger wheels, align the points, inner and outer. I then lock the distributor down snug, but not too tight to not let the distributor spin, so I can turn it with the engine running.

    2nd, I then remove all the drive belts from their respective accessories, especially the ones that drive the FAN.

    3rd, I then connect up my tach/dwell meter and timing light.

    4th, I then fire the engine up, and use my timing light to set the actual timing on the balancer. This operation doesn't take much more than a minute or two, not allowing the engine to get too hot.

    5th, I then put the belts back opn, and go to setting the carburetor.

    This leaves my timing set, and all my fingers in place, and fully functional.

    Regards,

    Milton
     
  13. CraigFaller

    CraigFaller Well-Known Member

    Hey to chime in my opinion, if your car is running with the distributor it has now, then its likely just fine. Spend your time/money getting a decent timing light and getting the timing dialed in - and if you really want to spend some $, then get yourself a 4bbl carb and intake.
     
  14. ceas350

    ceas350 "THE BURNER"

    I have a timing light with a dial... the initial timing is set @ 12
     
  15. Dale

    Dale Sweepspear

    I agree with what others have said. If it works, leave well enough alone.

    But, if you really want to replace it, remanufactured distributors are sold over the counter at parts stores for less than $150.00.

    That hose does look ballooned. I'd be more concerned about that.



    :TU:
     
  16. ceas350

    ceas350 "THE BURNER"

    maybe I'll just give the advance spings a try. We will see how that goes. I wonder how little or more that will help. Anyone done the vac advance springs yet. if so how much did that help
     
  17. 73 Centurion

    73 Centurion Well-Known Member

    The bushings are one of the few things that will wear out on a distributor. If you pull the cap and wiggle the rotor it should not move side to side. If it wiggles you can replace it with another Buick HEI from an autoparts store.

    If you don't feel any slop in the shaft your distributor is fine. You can replace your cap, rotor and wires to ensure that the entire system is working properly.

    Changing the advance curve on your distributor can really help performance, it can also destroy an engine if it knocks. Knocking is a sign of too much timing advance. In general you want to creep up on the point where the engine knocks then back off a bit.

    There are some great threads on adjusting the advance curve for a distributor on this site. Read them thoroughly before you start changing parts.

    Just changing the springs isn't going to optimize your advance curve. It's a balancing act between initial advance, centrifugal advance and vacuum advance. The initial advance is what you set with your timing light. The centrifugal advance is controlled by the springs. The vacuum advance is controlled by the engine vacuum. The combination of all three determines the timing at any given RPM.

    This is actually good news, because the parts involved aren't expensive. It takes time and experimenting to get the curve right, but it can yeild big improvements.

    If you change something on the engine (like getting a 4 barrel) you'll need to go through this exercise again. So it's best to learn how to do it the right way.

    John
     
  18. New SBB

    New SBB That HURT

    I think you mean mechanical advance springs, and the correct new ones will help if there is something really worn out or misshapen about your current ones. Actually, if they were really that bad, the ricers would probably blow you into the weeds. Buy a new springs/weights kit. Pull your dist and take it apart, clean and polish the pivot posts for the weights, think about replacing the condenser, clean the wire connections, replace the cap and rotor, wires and plugs. That should cost you under $a hundie, take less than an hour, and make you feel like you took care of your motor. You may or may not notice any difference because you have still not said if your engine is running poorly or not. Simply not knowing where your disty came from is no reason to replace it. Do you know where the cam came from? Anyone could have replaced it too. Be smart with your money and you might be lucky enough to pay for gas when you need it.
     
  19. ceas350

    ceas350 "THE BURNER"

    Thanks, my engine runs great I just know it can run better:3gears:
    I buy cars to drive... not to look at in storage, so with that being said it is what you put into it. Right? I have new plugs, cap and rotor. maybe the MSD wires could use a changin :idea2:
    I want to learn more abou t my 350, so if that means installing new parts through trial and error then thats what I will do.
    Maybe a Q-jet and intake later. I have time for little stuff now though:grin:
     
  20. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Ceaser, I want to apologize for being an a s s. I will not make any excuses. You came here to get answers and this was no place for me to show impatience or frustration. A fellow Buick person who's passionate about their car deserves much better. I'll try to do a better job of being helpful.

    Devon
     

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